Jez Morton

If your venting to atmosphere you need to remove the none return valve from the side of the engine. If you don't the crank case will pressurise and chuck oil out, normally from path of last resistance.

If your venting to atmosphere you need to remove the none return valve from the side of the engine. If you don't the crank case will pressurise and chuck oil out, normally from path of last resistance.

Indicator also 21watt. Is the stop and tail light not combined 5w and 21w in same bulb? Jez

You need to use the volt regulator with your gauges as they will be 10volt. The regualtor gives a constant 10volt which was required with the old dynamos whose output would vary with load and speed. When you tried the volt regulator did you connect 12v to terminal B and the gauges to terminal I, the body of the regulator will need to be connected to earth for it to work. You'll still need to get correct senders to make them read right.

Your car is negative earth. I dont think anything was positive earth passed the 60's. What Smiths gauges do you have, are they new or from a classic car. New gauges should be good with 12volt supply but old classic gauges will need regulator. The senders from the Sierra will not match the smiths gauges, your best bet is to source the correct senders.

Switch on each load and see where the voltage goes, if it drops then you may need to speed the alternator up. Raise the engine revs and see if volts rises again if it does then you'll need to look at pulley sizes.

Whats the voltage when the car us running, if its 12.3volts I'd suggest alternator not working. You should be seeing around 14volts with engine running. The alternator should be capable of providing the cars power without the battery draining. Just to add if the alternator output picks up when you rev then the exitation isnt working you need the charge light, in normal use the alt should kick in first time you boot it.

I had the same issue on my previous kit a Sierra S7. I ended up welding on some angle iron to the tube replace the ends that snapped, also I had to cut bend and weld the angle to achieve the same attachment.

Can confirm on my old S7 it was remove brake servo or head to get manifold off.

Hi just after some info, can people tell me how wide the flange is that the bonnet sits on at the back of the nose. I need to clarfy what the 2B noses where originally made with. Can you let me know the width of the flat part after it steps down, on my original its atound 30mm. Thanks

I found an aerosol brake cleaner from Halfords was good at shifting the glue residue. Went through what ever was in the cupboard trying to remove it and this worked really well. I guess any similar solvent based cleaner should work.

The futures bright....

Just a few thoughts from my S7 ownership a few years ago now. I think the radiator and fan should be enough to do the job, so what else could be the issue. Air flow out of the engine bay was always an issue on the S7, do you have some decent vents fitted I had the stainless marine vents fitted to the side of the bonnet. Is the water pump doing its job, i had a pump which had a pressed steel impeller these can corrode and arent very efficient, a cast impeller works much better. Is the water flow restricted, does the engine need a flush through. Wrapping the exhaust helps if only to stop your feet melting. As for the push pull question, I don't think it matters as long as the fan is running in its design direction. If it's running in reverse it won't be a efficient. Jez

On my old S7 i had the viscous fan fitted which was next to useless until i fitted a cowl out of a Capri. Try making a cowl so the air is forced through the rad because without one the air will just deflect around it.

I'll be there.

I'll give it a run.

I fitted cobra cub style seats when I had an S7, roadster seven seats fit but with squeeze.

Cheers guys some good advise.The parts I want to wrap aren't too big so I think I'll do the wrapping indoors where is warm which is another reason for wrapping as is to cold outside for paint.

I'm changing the colour of the 2B this winter, the blue GRP is looking a bit dull and some of it needs replacing for one reason or another. Anyway, I'm going to change to orange, ordered new nose and wings from GBS. The rear boot cover and crescent covers are painted blue so i need to change the colour. I'm thinking about using an orange 3D carbon look wrap to cover the panels, has anyone got any advice on best place to buy and fitting the wrap. Thanks

Good to see the Leicester boys again, and leave in one piece! Glad i got to see Richies V8 at last, looks awesome and sounds awesome. Gonna buy some shares in BP! I think there sales just went up.

Jubilee clip?

Might join you at the Langtons, what time are people getting there?

Hi Rob, I've got one you can have. Could bring to next club meet?

Sorry negative is neutral. Plus to live/switched side of bulb and minus to neutral side of bulb.

Thats how you would wire an amp meter, in series. Volt meter is wired parallel, live to plus and neg to minus. Live would be output of switch to show volts when on.