theduck

Have had a look, its 5 posts in a given 24 hour period, you made 4 posts Monday afternoon and 1 Tuesday morning, you would have been ok to post again yesterday after 1:45pm

Sorry got that wrong, it is five per day. No idea why you were limited to two yesterday.

or join the club and remove the frustration of only being able to post twice a day

It’s a restriction on community users which is lifted by joining the club.

iirc these are the correct readings for the coolant temp sensor, should be easy to check with a couple resistors to short out the plug with

@MrToad they are 16mm if I remember correctly.

Two forms of security needed, normally key and steering lock. If your steering lock has been removed/doesnt work, then immobiliser is a good second option, although it doesnt need to be installed by a professional.

I have used one of these for my chargecooler setup https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BHKW92Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If I remember correctly, the impeller will free spin when not in use, so you could fit in-line and use one of those cheap ebay turbo timers to turn it on when you turn ignition off and have it run for a set period of time, but also have the option to manually turn it off should you wish.

Thanks Peter, overhauling the NW site is one of the long list of improvements I'd like to make to the wider site to make the valuable information the site contains easier to access. I have appended these details to the existing part number page on the NW site.

I thought that was just to do with banning installation of gas heating in new homes from 2025?

1 - Any sticky road tyre, thinking along the lines of Toyo R888 etc 2 - Drag slicks would be the best, and they are most commonly found in 15" so a spare set of 15s to fit the zero would be the way to go. They tend to be tall sidewalls though, so would have to make sure you got some that would fit under the arches, or setup so you can remove and refit arches easily to swap between wheels. I would think option 1 would be the most sensible, mainly because with the amount of grip you would have available on launch with a drag slick you are probably going to start breaking things.

The best improvement for drag racing would probably be a suitable automatic Let's ignore that option though because I don't think anyone with a kit really wants an automatic Other than that, for a seven, more grip, and stronger driveline to handle more aggressive launches that you can do once you have more grip. There is a rule of thumb that everything you save in the 60ft is doubled at the 1/4 mile, so being able to get a strong launch can make a huge difference. Finally, more power, but really until you have a car that you can launch, more power is just more increasing the likelihood of breaking things.

Looks great, Dan!

You've not had much luck have you? Will be worth it when it is on the road! Have put some responses to some of your issues in red below Metered Emissions - the HC reading was 4260 when the max is 1200. The car struggled to run at the required 2,000 rpm it just kept hunting between 1,000 and 3,000. The reading from the garage prior to attempt one was fine, well below the limit. I suspect I have messed up the mixture after the carb rebuild. I would suggest getting the engine setup properly on a rolling road, there is a multitude of things that could need addressing here and this would be best way to find and fix them all. Brake pipe or hose must not be exposed to excessive heat. The car has the original sierra manifold and the exhaust has a heat wrap around it. The servo is close to the engine and heat shield I made is obviously not up to the job (see picture, although the heat shield has been removed). I am thinking about removing the servo all together as described in other posts and then make a bigger heat shield. I removed the servo on mine and did not have a heatshield fitted and not had any issues. Brake warning light - The light on the dash functions with both the handbrake and the low brake fluid level switch. However, the low fluid switch doesn't seem to work. Am I correct in thinking that if I fix the low brake fluid switch and can prove it works by unscrewing the top that will pass? I can test the light from the driver’s seat using the handbrake or do I need a separate switch? Handbrake is fine to test the light, and yes if you remove the cap and the light comes on, that confirms it is working correctly. Headlight aim was out, I must have knocked them as they had been aligned by the garage. They will go out of alignment very easily just driving it a few miles on the road, most IVA inspectors will allow you to align using their equipment on the day

Sounds like a plan.

Road tune Sunday then?

Can confirm you purchased 1 ticket on 30th April.

Just seen on the news that the early may bank holiday, the weekend stoneleigh is normally on, is being moved to the following Friday for 2020 as part of the 75th anniversary VE Day celebrations. I wonder what this wilL mean for stoneleigh next year? https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-48565417

Should be able to download it now

I would check the valve clearances. I had a 1600 that seemed to run well other than was massively under powered and it turned out the valve clearances were a mess.

Lovely looking car

it maintains an equal pressure difference between the fuel rail and the inlet. Are you on a stock zetec ecu or aftermarket? If aftermarket and has been mapped as it is now will be fine without, if it is stock ecu it will run better under cruise and part throttle conditions with it connected.

There should be a vacuum line from the inlet to the fuel pressure regulator