chris n

Your Local car paint supplier should be able to match the paint on your car. Some supplier have gone trade only now so will need to look for one who is happy to sell to Joe Public Im now using Nexa Autocolour basecoat's are a very good match with final systems clearcoat

Updated 16th June 2015 (366) Sorry for the delay in getting welcome packs out.

Matched pair of Webber 40 DCOE Carbs set up for Pinto. come with Hi-Flow inlet Manifold ( to fit Pinto), Throttle linkage and K&N air filters Used but in good condition (only done about 2000 miles) £500 ovno plus postage and packing or you can pick up PM me for more details

Got it set up on the Sky box. Vet Mark Evens playing with cars again

Its most probably a cosworth cable which is longer than the standard Sierra

Wish it was that easy Ken. The pedal box on the Cortina S7 sits on top of the of the firewall tight up against the scuttle bulkhead and has just room for the brake light switch the fit. so there's no way I would get an internal M/C to fit in an inch and a half gap so any M/C would have to go next to the servo something along the lines of a Land Rover type. As Dan said anything's possible with a few tools, used to that

Just found this. See how many you remember or don't want to as the case maybe for some of the models http://www.msn.com/en-gb/cars/news/popular-cars-vanishing-from-our-roads/ss-BBjZ0cp?ocid=mailsignoutmd

Remember sitting in your car to try the clutch at Donington a couple of years ago,before you done the mod Dan, couldn't even push the pedal down and after you had fitted and said the hydraulic set up had improved it no end that got me thinking! The only tricky bit of the job will be modifying the pedal box to take the master as running without the servo if it is in the way is not an option for me. may have to see if I can borrow a master cylinder and have a play about.

Looking in to this myself at the moment as the clutch on the Hood is heavy to me even after changing the cable from Cortina Mk5 set up to the manual adjustment Mk4 set up (which did make it a bit lighter) as after a long drive my left leg and feet end up killing me. Don't really want to start taking the engine out to fit a kit to the box, so have been look at the Wilwood pull slave cylinder. There is room for a master cylinder just in next to the servo would just need to fabricate a mounting bracket to fit to the pedal box

Have a look at Weld UK Richard http://welduk.com/shop Loads of good TIG welders in your price range on there

Updated 15th May 2015 (340)

This one was in good condition as it was new when I built the car, lasted about 200 miles before it went bang!!!!! Putting a lager dent and split in the passengers side of the tunnel. Now used as a tool to stop the oil running out of the when I'm removing a type E or type 9 gearbox.

Sounds like the water pump is leaking from the tell tale hole in the underside of it. You will need to fit a new pump as the seal has failed in yours.

Yes Nigel you are right they are fitted to the MT75 prop with a 6 hole pattern. They were fitted to the 4-speed box with the 2.0L pinto engine and to the early type 9 box with a 3 hole pattern with the shaft moulded into the rubber but the 1.6L had a U/J fitted.

S7 should have U/J's at both ends of the prop and be a one piece unit, only the very early kits had the U/J at the diff end and the rubber coupling at the gearbox end this was a modified donor part. If it has the rubber coupling fitted I would change the prop out no matter what as when they let go its not pretty. If you have the prop off the car put the box into 3rd or 4th gear and check the amount of play on the output shaft there should only be a very small amount of play to allow for the back lash on the bearing. My mate had a similar thing on his cobra car would do 40mph at the wheels but it was in top gear with the speedo reading 60mph. Turned out to be the main shaft bearing on the output shaft and needle roller bearing on the input shaft were both shot.

Couple of hours work this afternoon and things are looking up Just need to make up a section to go between the to mounting plates to stop any lateral movement, nothing like a bit of over engineering.

After the weekend at Stoneleigh its given me the inspiration to have a look at my S7 and see what was make the loud banging noise coming from the rear axle every time it went over a bump or pothole in the road. The car has been of the road since September and not had very much time to look at it with work getting in the way. So I set an hour or so aside today to take a look, thinking it was void bushes shot and needed replacing. Got the car jacked up and on a set of stands and got underneath only to find that the mounting bracket for the O/S trailing arm has broken away from the axle Looks like a slight bit of fabricating needs to be done and get the old girl back on the road Load of cutting, grinding and welding so will be as happy as a pig in poop once the axle is off the car. Good job I didn't fork out for a set of bushes first

Great pictures Alan There a few of the aerial photos from the drone of the camp site by The Whole Hog Pig Roast Company On their Facebook page https://www.facebook...pigroastcompany

I can too but even further away

There is a veggie option available along side the Hog Roast

Updated 27th April 2015 (326) Last Membership run before Stoneleigh

Please add a price as per rule 7 Many thanks

For a swage in a small panel I use a section of 10mm round bar welded to a 8mm plate placed over an open vice jaws then I tap the bar into the panel with a copper hide hammer. For lager panels I use to blocks of wood with the panel on top all clamped to the workbench with G clamps, then using a 12mm round bar and a heavy hammer form the swage. After you have made the swage dress round the area with a panel hammer and heel dolly.

Gutted for you mate after all the work you put in to the car

It will be a Euro 5 emissions then Bob same engine just with a lot more pluming to get in the way. The one I recently serviced was on a 58 plate (2008)