steve in stockport

Emerald on mine with the turbo. No problems once it was mapped by someone who new what he was doing with forced induction. I don't think there's a lot to choose between the market leaders, maybe your decision should be led by what your chosen tuner is most familiar with.

Running the cable over a bolt isn't a great idea to increase the cable pull, options are to get a bigger clutch quadrant ie one with a shallower groove that will increase the pull, they're available in 45, 50 and 55mm sizes, put a strip of aluminium over the groove or a piece of copper brake pipe in it, or space out the tube where the cable enters the pedal box as this will give more cable pull too. Mick will know whether it's an uprated or standard clutch that's fitted.

Apologies but life, work and other events have stopped me looking into organising anything for June. The organisers, Cheshire Auto Promotions, usually ask for a list of attendees four weeks prior to the event so if you're lucky you might just be able to secure a spot either on a club pitch or as individual exhibitors. Application forms are on their website. If there's any interest for the August show I'll look into getting a stand, dates are 20th and 21st August.Usual format, arrival from Friday morning, free entry for exhibitor and passenger, camping £10 for two nights per tent, if arriving on the day you need to be in and parked up by 10.30am and no vehicle movements until 4pm either day.

No hard feelings here either, in fact lesson learned, every day is a school day as they say. As my comments have ruffled a few feathers amongst the members I've asked for a moderator to remove them in the interest of forum harmony.

Did the ecu get wet? Can't remember where it is on your car. Could be an injector fault, I think they all share a common earth back to the ecu, but the drivers are separate. Or the ignition relay that powers the coil drivers. Try unplugging and refitting the loom connector to the ecu a couple of times to clean up any crud that may have built up on the contacts. I'm sure someone more knowledgable will have more in depth suggestions than mine.

Do both fuel pumps run when the engine cuts out, ie when it cuts and you go to restart do you hear both pumps priming and pressurising the system? Have you got sparks after the engine has cut out? Could be ignition related rather than fuel

Not always an easy five minute job on a Robin Hood, depends on whether the builder has had to shorten/modify/bodge the cable to make it the correct length.

Sorry Dan, just checked and it's a full set of rods but no pistons.

Pretty sure I've got a set here too if Bob's don't suit.

It might account for some of the oil usage, is there evidence of oil around the area in the engine bay or under the floor of the car. I don't think it's got anything to do with your smoking as the dipstick's on the opposite side of the block to the exhaust isn't it? I think you're probably burning a bit of oil on the overrun through worn valve stem seals too.

Just picked up camping passes and race tickets that were ordered from Le Mans tourist office from the post office earlier today. Really good service from Nadine who works there and deals with all things to do with the 24hr. If you're thinking of going to the 24hr or the classic drop her an email and see what she can do for you nadine.bouttier@lemans-tourisme.fr

Unfortunately not Bob, it was some bloke who'd been stuck there for 2 hours. Had the rest of the meal, speeches etc then out again to a cardiac arrest for the ambulance service.

At work all day from 0830-1900hrs and as is traditional at Christmas cooking and serving dinner to the watch members. After dinner it's speeches and gifts and then all the cleaning ready for handover done by the officers. As usual we were just serving the main course when we got a turn out, all the work nursing the turkey and roast potatoes almost ruined. Luckily it was a quick rescue from a lift so we were there and back in 20 minutes.

What tyre pressure are you using? 18 psi all round is fine for a 2B riding solo, maybe increase to 20 at the back for two in the car. Do you know what the spring rates are? The rears on mine are 300lb and I run the Gaz coilovers at just over half the adjustment. I've also fitted wedges to sort the camber and set the toe to zero at rest with shims. Drives fine set at this, it is very firm but doesn't skip around. Ideally I need to increase the spring rate and reduce the damping to get a bit more compliance when cornering and a bit more comfort.

You need to fix your 2B before you start on another project.

Can't help with whether 5he 240/253 brakes will work, but if you go for the 260mm discs on the front which were fitted to a few sierras you'll also need the matching calipers and carriers to fit them.

We'll be joining you over there Pete, had confirmation of booking from Le Mans tourism office of 3 pitches on Bleu Nord and 4 race tickets for me, Mike, Brian and James. Said we wouldn't go again, but decided to go and see the new Ford GT's in action next year. Have been looking at crossings and not sure whether to go Dover -Calais and drive across France, or Poole-Cherbourg and cut the mileage down. Only about £60 in it when you take fuel into account.

Can't find any mention of this on the internet anywhere, which seems odd in these days of everybody having a smartphone or video camera and posting just about every little thing that happens on youtube. Mind you, the story of the day I fell off my Raleigh Grifter and grazed my knee while doing 150mph down the prom at Blackpool, one handed, eating a candy floss and wearing a kiss me quick hat never got onto the internet until just now!

£50 for an expansion tank, you need to look for one from a VW Golf etc or a Rover 25, you can pick these up from around a fiver for a second hand one or £15 and upwards for new.

Emerald supply a Bosch sensor as their default, but the ECU can be set up to use different items. You need to find the specs for the sensor you want to use and adjust the settings in the ECU accordingly. Sensors/senders come in all sorts of thread sizes and probe lengths and you should be able to find something to suit your needs. There is a similar problem to this when fitting a Z20LET/H engine in a kit as the temp sensor is mounted at the back of the head in an exhaust gas cooler. This either needs removing or the chassis modifying. Following Kerry's advice I removed it, fitted new core plugs and a blanking plate. Two more core plugs were then removed from the side of the head and senders for the ECU and the gauge fitted in these holes with a couple of adapters - take note Ken! No idea what a zetec head looks like, but maybe popping a core plug out and fitting a sensor in the hole is something that could work on these too?

Darren2010 did this earlier this year. Search his name to find the posts about it.

Four foot snake, stop bleating and get over it. There's thousands of people made homeless and fleeing war and your bottom lips on the floor over nothing in the grand scheme of things.

Isn't it just an interference fit, possibly with an O ring? The tube on my old CVH sierra used to just rotate around in the hole. Be careful using a blow torch, most engine O rings will be made from flouro elastomers, which when subjected to fire degrade to give off hydroflouric acid. If this gets onto skin or in your eyes it needs a neutralising agent to stop it eating it's way through the tissue. Luckily they have this at most A&E departments. I'd keep trying mechanical means first Bob.

if the brake test is carried out static on a set of rollers the G valve won't make any difference at all, it is an inertia operated decelerartion valve and needs to be in a moving vehicle to be effective. It might be easier to remove whatever pressure valve you have in and find another solution, Fiestas had pressure relief valves fitted to the outlets on the master cylinder which may do what you want. Side repeaters fitted to the body of a 7 type car haven't been able to meet the angles of visibility since the IVA test came into effect. The purpose of the side repeater is to alert drivers coming from behind and past the point where the rear lights can be seen that you intend to pull out. To that end you can fit the repeaters to the rear wheel arch, so long as they are within 2600mm of the front of the vehicle, the windscreen pillars or the outside edge of the front mudguards. Easiest, but not necessarilly the cheapest way to get the speedo correct is to get a set of wheels and tyres that match the rolling diameter of those originally fitted to a capri that your clocks came from. Otherwise there is something called a speedo healer, but not sure if that will do the job for you.

Nice work Mr P