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K-Series Gbs Zero


brumster
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  • 2 weeks later...

IVA application filed!

 

I suppose I should talk a little about what I've done here - and someone can tell me if I've done something wrong too :)

 

  • Before you apply, you need a VIN. This was sorted yonks ago (earlier in the thread), so I have a letter from DVLA advising the chassis number, that's been stamped on the car and on the VIN plate also, and I've got the letter as evidence.
  • You go to the website and all the relevant forms and details are on there, but in summary I've done this...
  • Fill out the IVA 1C application form. This is generally straightforward, I think the only pertinent bits are...
    • Choose vehicle class "A" (Amateur built)
    • Make/model is "GBS ZERO"
    • Data of manufacture is pretty much now (ie. when the car was finished)
    • Not previously registered (ignore any aspect of the donor car)
    • Type of body is "2 SEAT SPORTS"
    • Manufacturer figures used for engine
    • 120mph as maximum design speed
    • Axle 1 450Kg, Axle 2 600Kg, gross 1050Kg, N/A train and towable mass (I'm not fussed to ever be towing with this thing!). These numbers are generally agreed as GBS's design spec numbers, I believe.
    • Sign it, put £450 in for whatever payment method you're taking
  • Fill out the Amateur Build application form. I printed it to PDF and embedded a signature, and added it to the submission. I'm unsure if I still have to post it, so we'll see what happens - I've asked for guidance
  • Gather some evidence scans/photos of :
    • Donor car
    • Destruction of donor car chassis
    • Receipt of new chassis
    • Selection of pictures of the build-up from start to finish, just showing major pics of the car
    • Scans of old MOTs of donor, V5, etc
    • Receipts for anything major purchased, like engine, gearbox, suspension, steering column, etc. this is more important for new builds but since the donor car gave every major component, there wasn't really any key receipts here other than the Zero chassis itself.
  • The upload process limits attachments to 5MB each, which stopped me from uploading any videos I had of the donor/etc, or even collating pictures into a ZIP. I have hundreds of pictures, document scan of every receipt, etc but to attach them all individually would take forever. I don't think they really need that level of detail yet. But at least I have it, if they ask for anything specific.
  • Submit the IVA application form online, attaching the evidence and the amateur build dec.
  • Sit back and await a phone call or email, I guess :) ?!
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  • 4 weeks later...

Where at?

Kidderminster

 

How long from sending it to getting the date? Ill be booking mine early in 2018.

So submitted on the 13th October, accepted for assessment on 16th and paid for. On 18th I had a note about a correction needed on the self declaration form (I had put the registration rather than the VIN - doh!). At this point I responded, but sent it to the wrong address. I finally spotted and corrected this on 1st November, and it was then released on 3rd November and booked in today.

 

So really you should ignore the days between 18th and 1st as wasted by myself. So in reality, it would have been about 8 days from filing the forms online to getting my test date. So not long at all. I suspect I could have picked an earlier date but personal matters mean I can't do it before the 20th anyway.

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Last weekend of jobs... sealing up some bits, checking over the car, nuts and bolt checks and so forth. A couple of things to report on.

 

Was wondering if the IVA inspector would want to see the battery +ve terminal covered, which is rather awkward on this tiny race battery, so I designed and printed a little cover that sits inside the battery top and attaches over the cables.

 

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Also, while prepping for the rolling road the other month I noticed the Innovate LC-1 lambda controller had packed up. Truth be told I wasn't surprised, I haven't heard good things over time with them... this one had done very, very little mileage/hours of use and has packed up. I've taken it off and stripped it apart to attempt a diagnosis/repair but don't have the time to sort it quite yet, so I've bought an alternative PLX brand. Mickey mouse construction really, and I'm strongly tempted to have a go making one myself when you see what little goes into these things... there must be demand for a DIY Arduino-style lambda controller, I would have thought. But for now, this will get me by.

 

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So spent today wiring that into the loom where the LC-1 existed previously, and reconfiguring the ECU. All up and running. Tomorrow is carpet boot day, do some trim tidying and then we are well and truly finished and ready for IVA...

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So it might not be the end to this thread quite yet (still the IVA to go, and the inevitable fail-fix-retest palava that goes with it), but from a time-in-the-garage perspective it pretty much is. Today's final jobs...

 

Carpet the rear boot area. I found it much easier to oversize the material, stick the bulk of it into place on the large flat areas and then trim in-situ. The bottom piece I've just lightly glued in place since there's an access panel to the diff underneath it, which I will definitely be requiring next year when I come to fit the slippy diff...

 

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The edges are just pushed underneath the top lips of the bodywork using a gasket scraper, and any loose bits I tacked up extra with the hot glue gun where necessary (although I doubt hot glue will stay stuck for long, so I didn't rely on it too much). I also kept some strapping eyes out of the old Exmo and re-fitted them into the boot area, which will allow me to bungee-cord stuff down if I ever need to. Two in the front panel behind the seats, and two at the midpoint of the sides before the tank starts. Just remind yourself there are delicate areas behind these panels - brake lines, fuel pipes, fuel tank - so don't go drilling willy-nilly!

 

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I then moved on to the handbrake gaiter. I used a retaining plate (stainless) that I think came from CBS yonks ago, along with a leather gaiter from the same place. Drilling the plate first, marked up and drilled the centre console, fitted 4mm rivnuts, and then fasted down with dome-headed stainless screws. Trimmed the leather by marking with a tyre pen and remove the excess material. Just take your time, fit, mark, remove, cut, re-fit, check, etc... until you're happy.

 

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And there we go. Errm. Next report should be post-IVA. Bit nervous, suspect I've missed some silly bits that it'll fail on but I guess resigning yourself to failure is a good way of managing expectations, and just budget the £90 for a retest and be done with it :( !

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Dan, has your boot got a lid? With-out one I think the interior may be classed as "interior space" by IVA & needs to jump though all the hoops that entails. Hope I'm wrong.

 

Looking manly at the seat belt mounts.

Edited by florin metal works
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No, there's no lid.

 

The required standard talks of a "specified zone" and anything impactable in a forward direction by the test sphere. The specified zone is defined as an area forward of a theoretical vertical plane at the rearmost/lowest position of the seat. There is talk of the plane starting 25cm behind this, but where a fixed bulkhead exists within this 25cm then that is taken as the rearmost boundary. So by my reading and understanding of the requirements, anything 25cm behind the base of the seat OR behind the bulkhead isn't something to worry about.

 

Having said all of that, it would be very little effort on my part to design and 3D print some little rounded boots to screw onto those protruding screws, so I might just do that one night this week as a belts-and-braces approach ;)

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Just remembered I really should insure it while it's on the trailer, so rang up A-Plan and have it covered fully comp, 4000 miles a year, £200 excess, for £199. It's on chassis-cover for now, until the registration comes through, and then they'll swap it over. It's not quite an "agreed value" policy, however they did convince me that should the worse happen they do take into account photos, receipts, etc for the components and come to sensible valuations rather than just saying "market value", which is somewhat meaningless on cars with rather specialist components in them.

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Any thoughts/checks on what to take along with me to the IVA? The car is going on a trailer, since I have one anyway it just seems sensible to use it, so I'm not worried about mechanical breakdowns as such. Here's my thinking :

 

- Laptop with all the build photos on, video evidence of donor car

- The cut-out chassis number from the donor car

- Instructions for speedo configuration

- Paper copies of all receipts

- VIN number letter from DVLA

 

Then, on the basis they might be amenable to the odd last-minute fix if it's something silly :

- Various bits of edge trim and snips to cut it

- Cable ties

- Basic selection of tools; screwdrivers, spanners, wheel nut gun/tool

- Jack

- Fluids

- USB cable & laptop for tweaking map, if needed (shouldn't be but...)

 

I fully understand they have every right to demand a retest for even the smallest of things, so not setting any expectation in my head, but you never know. There's no way the headlamp alignment, for example, is going to be spot on so presumably they are happy to set that as they examine, since it's only nudging the lamps this way or that?!

 

Anyone any recommendations on other stuff to take that I've maybe forgotten?

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