Jump to content

K-Series Gbs Zero


Recommended Posts

The Westfield pad is what they fit on their wheels for IVA; they basically use an unbranded Mountney design, and the pad clips over the central section and 3 spokes, covering the bolts and any sharp edges...




I might have been lucky at Stoneleigh then - maybe they don't sell them separately but the nice lady was OK with selling it individually to me once I pointed out "ooo, ooo that's just what I need, one of them!" :D

Edited by brumster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm surprised the testers will let you get away with that - pretty darn obvious you're gonna rip it off on the way out of the test centre :-)


I've got a wheel (not IVA compliant) from GBS and they never mentioned you can just stick a pad in the middle - I've been planning to borrow a Sierra wheel for the test but that's annoying because the wheel I've got has got a horn button in the middle which I want to use. But if I replace with a Sierra wheel, would have to put a button somewhere else...


If yours gets you through IVA, first dibs to buy it off you... :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Given a delightful weekend of weather, what did I get done? I repainted a bathroom, jetwashed a patio, re-laid some brick edging and didn't even make time for a bike ride; disgusted with myself :)


However I did make use of the weather to roll the car out and do some rudimentary side mirror positioning. I really want to put them in the scuttle rather than the side screen supports, but not many other people do this, and it worried me. Why? Could you not get the visibility needed for the IVA test? Ok, well, let's test the theory!




So with the aid of the Little Helper, I got in the hot seat. Position it all the way back, as per the rules in Section 8 of the IVA manual. I then had a 3rd helper stand in the appropriate positions 10m and 20m behind the car, and 2.5m/4m offset from the edge of the car, with a pole and the tape measure along the ground. I needed to be able to see the pole and the run of the tape measure on the ground. Now granted I can't get it as accurate as at a test centre but provided I wasn't at the edges of visibility then chances are it's going to be fine.




Suffice to say, yes, no problem - I can see perfectly fine over the rear arches, and the lines are clearly visible on the ground. The rear view mirror I need to purchase, but it will have to be screen mounted anyway, so will be high up and will easily meet the requirements. So on the scuttle they're going.


Obviously they're going to put quite a bending force on the scuttle so you can't just expect to bolt them straight into a thin piece of aluminium, so I took a template of the curvature of the scuttle where they will sit. Took the cardboard template, scanned it into the PC, then loaded it into Onshape and drafted out the makings of a rear support bracket - more a large, dedicated load spreader really, that will clamp up nicely to the inside skin of the scuttle...





As you can see, it has a recess for a spreader washer, and the 8mm bolt hole (the countersink was increased a bit after this image was taken, as I realised it was too thick).... will print it tomorrow and hopefully clamp them up and see how it looks.... should keep the wingmirrors firm in place and reduce any shake/vibration, I hope.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest 2b cruising

I use stemmed motor cycle mirrors from GBS, and have them mounted on the scuttle in the hole of the A of the screen support.

View is well in excess of the test allowance especially with the inner screen mirror collecting all the centre line view.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like that, I see you are enjoying onshape, its quite intuitive and easy for what we use it for. Good to see progress, I will crack out the Printer again this weekend got some similar things to do.

Edited by femster
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Over the last few weekends I've got the wiper motor sorted; positioned the motor on the left hand side of the bulkhead (passenger side) just next to the main fusebox, which is where most people site it of course. I trimmed the bowden tube to length so that it meets up with the first wiper gearbox; there's nothing really difficult here but it's lots of offering up, measuring, taking it out, bending/cutting, re-offering it back up and going round the houses bit by bit until you're sure it's right. Main thing as always is to measure twice, cut once!




You really need to take care when bending the tube, as it won't like any kinks in it and the geared cable won't run cleanly through it. Also be very careful of the retaining clip that's in the end of the motor (behind the threaded nut on the left of the picture above); I had two motors... in one, it was aluminium but in the other it was plastic and, try as I might, I just could not undo the nut off it to replace the bowden tube - it snapped attempting it. So I used the aluminium retainer from my older motor, transplanted into the casing of my newer one.




The gearboxes then clamp up onto the ends of the tubes; I didn't really see a need to flare them like the originals, but I gently tapped a centre punch into the ends to splay them a little just in case.


I've not bolted them up yet because it was at this point I detected that one of the rubber spacers for the wiper spindles from CBS was split, so I've ordered a replacement. With the split, it's impossible to bolt the wiper spindles up tight, the rubber angled spacer just splays apart.


My god, that's the word "splay" used twice in one article. I think that's a record. Anyway.


Cut and fitted the vent pipework from the heater to the demister vents. Also ran up some blanking "cups" to fit over the unused outlets on the heater; obviously leaving them open would result in little air pressure to the window vents and a rather unremarkable performance from them, I suspect, as all the air rushed out behind the dashboard and cooked my ECU, rather than demisting my window :D



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I spent starting the panelling in of the rear boot area. I ordered some aluminium sheet ages ago when I did the radiator blanking panel, with this in mind, so lots left over. This is probably all obvious, but for those using this as a build guide, you simply use cardboard to template out the panels, then transfer that onto aluminium and cut it out... always erring on the side of caution and going overside so you can trim it back later if need be.


First I tidied up the wiring in the back with some protective spiral wrap; it shouldn't really receive any harsh objects up here but, meh, I'll play it safe and keep the IVA man happy - it's only an hours worth of work to wrap it all up. I also finalised all the grommets into the rear lights, shrink sleeves the multiplugs and tidied it all up behind the arches so that the wiring was tidy and away from the tyres, but didn't snap any pics....




My plan is to box in the sides thus...




...and rivet these panels onto the side of the chassis, and up to the top flange of the boot. They will rest over the fuel tank unattached (obviously! Resist the urge to self tap the buggers to the tank ;) ) but there will be some high-density chassis foam between them and the tank to take up the gap and provide a bit of a seal.




So they basically look like this (it's unattached at this point)... marked up, drilled for rivets, but I'm not going to fit it yet until the whole back end is finalised. The idea will be to sikaflex to the chassis where it meets. It's not the most space efficient but to be honest, on this side (the left) you've obviously got the massive pipe for the fuel filler so there's not really a lot of luggage space that could have been regained on this side anyway.




There will be a removeable flat bottom to the boot that will have V-edges on the left and right, which will meet up and seal with the side panels using chassis foam. The idea is that, in a real push, I can pull the bottom panel off and get better access to the diff area in the future if ever need to. It will be a messy job, not intended to be a quick release affair, but at least better than drilling out a load of rivets if I ever need to. All will become apparent with future posts, I'm sure ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finished printing a little bracket to steady the fuel pressure regulator in the engine bay - I was going to mill this out of aluminium but my CNC conversion is on the backburner a bit, so plastic will suffice for now :(




The holes are slightly ovaled so that it clamps up nicely when tightened, so it basically steadies the regulator rather than it just held loosely by the nature of the tension in the pipework... I'm guessing IVA man wouldn't be happy with that.



  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...