Jump to content

K-Series Gbs Zero


Recommended Posts

Did a little fun "side job" tonight; have been meaning to do it for a while now... on the K-Series there was originally a distributor on the back of the head. With the move to aftermarket management, this is superfluous and is removed, but it does leave a dirty great spinning cam end on the end of the engine, and it's worried me for a while looking at it spinning away, waiting to ensnare some poor unsuspecting soul - his clothing, his fingers, his hair, etc...


So I designed up a little end cover just to guard from any accidental fouling and 3D printed it. Quite happy with the result! There's quite a few 3D-printed parts I need to make up, including an IVA-friendly switchgear knob, a bracket to hold the TRM fusebox, some front number plate brackets, wiper spindle spacers, wiper mounting bracket and probably a wealth of others I'll stumble across as I go along....





  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

More "practical 3D printing" tonight :)


This time the rear fog lamp (and will do another one for reverse light, even though I don't believe it's strictly necessary). For those that don't know, the fog lamp is not intended to be bolted directly to the rear panel like this, as it angles upwards and will fail the IVA test due to light intensity/angle issues. It needs levelling out (or even angling downwards slightly). The kit comes with some metal brackets to do this by hanging them off the lower edge but - well, euurgh - I really wanted nice flush-fit units to the body really.


So... back to the printer! Designed myself a bracket and bugger me sideways if it didn't fit first time :-o thought the design might need some revisions but no....!





  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finished off a few fuel hoses and mounted the rear number plate light, then popped some fuel in.

Put the oil filter on and then put some oil in the engine ;)

Checked cranking - that's all good, she cranks REALLY good on the aftermarket WASP starter and the dry-cell race battery, so that's positive.

Put the ignition on to check fuel pump and bingo, ECU primes the fuel pump correctly and she pressures up the fuel rail. So was looking good to start until... oh dear... fuel pissing out of the fuel rail... the little rubber O-ring in the Jenvey fuel rail looks to have split. I suspect this is because it had settled onto the fuel rail link pipe dry, and then had got twisted at some point and so had split the rubber seal.


To be honest, this wouldn't be the first time I've seen this, so I stripped it down and sure enough the O-ring seal has gone. Got straight onto Jenvey and they couldn't have been better - went to order 10 of the inner and 10 of the outer seals (I use the same fuel rail in the other car so having some spares would be sensible) and the nice chap wouldn't have any money off me - has sent them 1st class post so should be with me tomorrow. They checked my details to see I was an existing customer, so I'm guessing they could see previous orders and so apply some common sense/customer service.... which is lovely to see.


So, holding off on starting the car until tomorrow, hopefully. Might put the front indicators on tonight for something to do.... :) the reverse lamp spacer is printing off as I type, so I can fit that too. Still plenty of little jobs to do. I also want to re-route some of the battery cables as the terminals on the battery are tiny.

Edited by brumster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was planning on at least 350mm off the ground and at least 400mm in from the widest part of the car. The nosecone itself is 500mm wide so there's no fear of breaching the minimum separation. I'll keep them under 750mm off the ground so avoid the wider dispersion needed (I think 75cm up the nosecone may be nigh on impossible anyway, without looking ridiculous)....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A most productive and satisfying weekend :)


Designed and printed some stand-offs for the Wurth TRM (fuseboard to you and I), profiled to the PCB with captivated M6 nuts to mount to the bulkhead. All done with free software - QCAD for the initial 2D board profile, then OpenSCAD for the 3D modelling/extrusion, then just run through slic3r to create the g-code for the printer. Much stronger than the first incarnation, more convenient for running the wiring round, and obviously being PLA plastic no concerns about the large power feeds from the main fusebox touching anything.






Then set about marking up the nosecone for the indicators. So nosecone refitted, then car dropped to the ground, settled the suspension with a few bumps up and down and then set about marking the limits. The indicators need to be at least 350mm off the ground, which is marked on the tape as you can see - I obviously went for a generous distance above this, no need to be skirting around the limits. The upper limit before you need to worry about inward visibility (as Stu mentioned above) is 750mm which is pretty much the top of the nosecone moulding so, basically, on a Zero just fit anywhere above 350mm on the nosecone edge and you'll be fine. I went about 80mm in from the front leading edge of the bonnet, not that it massively matters, but it looked about right and keeps the indicators visible for a wide angle from the front.




As I'm sure most people are aware, the standard supplied indicators are too short and will not meet the IVA requirement for being no more than 400mm from the outside edge (widest point) of the car... and make note, that's the whole car, not the front arches, so is most likely your rear arches. I got the tape measure out and just by eye it was quite clear that the GBS-suppled extenders easily move the indicators out enough to meet the requirement, so while I didn't get a string out and measure it accurately, I'm happy that just be eye it's easily within requirement. Thanks to Zach (WallerZ) for the loan of the brackets ;)




It's hard to tell but I've tried to line my phone up on the vertical here, you can see the tape measure (at 400mm from the outer edge) in the background extends well past the centreline of the indicator...




Indicators in place - need a bit of bending/tweaking, mind you. Also marked up the left front arch which had been a job that got paused a while ago (for no good reason)... oh, and I fitted some stainless grille mesh into the nosecone too (Stoneleigh purchase!), finishes off the nosecone now...




While on the arches, I hot-snotted the side repeaters and their cables into place tight on the inside of the arch, ready to run the wiring. I also picked up some coarse backing felt from Woolies to line the arches and take the brunt of any stones/etc that might get spat up by the tyres. Really just thinking of preserving the underside of the GRP and reducing clatter, but only time will tell if it stays on. I imagine the front will be fine, to be honest, as the wing mounts will clamp it into place. Rear arches might be a different story... :)



Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...
Test Footer