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K-Series Gbs Zero


brumster
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Put my new 3D printer to some practical use the other day, designed and printed off a bracket to hold the Wurth TRM off the bulkhead...

 

First designed up in a simple, open source (free) 3D design tool called OpenSCAD, which is ideal for very simple geometric shapes and designs like this as it's all script/maths based rather than point-and-click GUIs like Blender...

 

(Link because PNGs are not allowed?! WTF?)

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_a_lXhpb6vM/VCvSz7wd_CI/AAAAAAAAEbw/f7rTHXyol6A/w957-h648-no/trmbracket.png

 

You then run it through a tool to generate all the G-code for the 3D printer and then it's just a case of setting it off and leaving it running for a few hours.... and you get this!

 

IMG_20140930_191646745%2B%281280x719%29.jpg

 

Final clearances finished off with a dremel where needed, and bob's your uncle...

 

IMG_20140930_191720868%2B%281280x719%29.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nothing much pictorially to report - last weekend I fitted the scuttle on "for good", then spent the day trimming the GRP dashboard panel so that it would fit around the column, and did some of the wiring. Finished off the top panel over the gearbox and fixed into place, and also the switch panel that fits on the top of it, marking it out for the switchgear.

 

Today I moved away from the wiring for a day, just to get a little job out of the way - fitting the Accusump. I had to weld in a couple of square section tubes onto the front of the chassis to mount it upon, but it sits nicely across the front of the engine bay and so will have a nice short feed into the oil gallery on the K-series via the oil filter housing, which is at the front left of the engine already.

 

IMG_20141011_145653780%2B%28719x1280%29.jpg

 

Given the shortening of the sump, I wouldn't really want to run without one (or a dry sump, but I'm not spunking my wad on one of those for an 80% road car!) so this will ensure the loss in capacity can be made up, and safeguard against any moment of oil surge. I need to get a short length of hose made up with the right fittings, which I'll do along with the front braided brake lines which I need to get also (the ones in the picture are off the old car and are too short). So not a lot to show for a days work, but hey ho... that's how things go :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Small update for a day's worth of work - it does seem that as the build approaches the end, the jobs are much smaller write-ups but they still take the time to actually do!

 

The exhaust system came back from Willie all nicely welded; he'd been busy fixing half of the BTCC field after their exploits so he'd been a bit busy pouring hours of work into race shells, but I was in no major rush so it was all good by me. The sump should be done this coming week.

 

Tacked a rear mount on the silencer (why Techcraft don't include this I don't know) so it can sit on a rubber bobbin. I then chopped down the old exhaust bracket off the Exmo (a little too large), mounted it into place, and job done. Turned out a little closer to the body side than I believe I had planned, but there's some adjustment in the sleeve at the manifold end so I might be able to bring it out a little if it's too close... not really sure how that happened :-S guess I didn't measure enough times before cutting somewhere :-/

 

IMG_20141025_132546866%2B%281280x719%29.jpgIMG_20141025_135444381%2B%281280x719%29.jpg

 

Overall very happy for a DIY effort; £90 for the Caterham manifold, £100 for the cat, £390 for the silencer, got done a bit on the pipework at £120 but it was all bent for me and it's high quality stainless, plus an extra length to make up a slip-in de-cat for "track use" in the future :). So at £700 it's about on the money really, but at least I am happy with the result and have no-one to whinge at other than myself if it fails noise test. The silencer is also well respected and so I'm pretty confident it's top shelf flow and noise-wise.

 

Also tapped the filter housing and plumbed in the Accusump; will snap some pictures and cover that in the next post...

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Hmmm, I wasn't planning on, no (the previous system in my Exmo never had any support)... what I might do is fit something mid-system after the IVA, so I don't have to worry about covering any clamps for protrusion issues on the test... maybe in conjunction with a short flexi run. I know what you're saying about stressing the welds on the system...

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I have had single mount since the original build and did worry about stress. My engines have always been mounted on pretty rigid blocks and don't move much. Combined with an exhaust mount at the back of the silencer that consists of one vertical and one horizontal rubber I have had no problems so far.

 

Nigel

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Few more pics as promised. The oil pressure line from the Accusump feeds in (or draws from!) the gallery-side of the oil filter housing. This is an ally casting hanging conveniently off the side of the block already, and has two 1/8NPT tapped holes in it, one for the oil pressure switch and the other blanked off with a plug. I drilled and tapped another hole underneath (opposite the takeoff) for an oil temperature sender, but thankfully the dashboard from SPA drives the oil pressure warning light from the one sensor, so there's no need to a separate switch and pressure sender. As you can see, the hose is pretty big as the unions at the Accumpsump end are 1/2NPT.

 

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The fuel pressure sender sits on the front of the fuel pressure rail in an adapter fitting. You want this close to the rail, naturally, to get an accurate reading (don't stick it way back at the fuel tank end!) - but it's a bit tight for space at the back of the engine where the pressure regulator will sit.

 

IMG_20141101_144550223%2B%281280x719%29.jpg

 

Did the lambda wiring. The lambda loom has a convenient plastic through-grommet tube on it, so I shortened the outer sheathing and then put the wire through the side panel with a suitably-sized grommet. This goes high-up into the passenger footwell to feed to the ECU, avoiding any feet.

 

IMG_20141101_144517714%2B%28719x1280%29.jpg

 

Tickled at a few other jobs - the paint on the steering column shaft had dried from last week so stuck that back on!

 

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Put the new braided lines on the front to complete the brakes, too. Discovered in the process that the pads for my left-hand caliper are smaller than the ones on the right so it looks like the box from ECP must have had an incorrectly packages set. But it's been yonks since I bought them so I'll just take the hit and purchase another set, I think, hardly breaking the bank. I can't for the life of my find the little metal clips that fit in the outer side of the calipers though, which is frustrating and worrying, so if anyone has a set please give me a shout! They are the Teves style calipers.

 

IMG_20141101_144537199%2B%281280x719%29.jpg

 

Change of scenery and decided to get the centre console panel out of the way as it relates to the wiring and will help me finalise the correct lengths for the loom. I hate doing trim but thankfully this is a pretty easy panel to do, no stretching or forming really needed. Cut off some material to plenty of length and then focus on the main front panel first. With the spray adhesive, follow the instructions and spray onto both the material and the panel then leave it for a good minute or two before sticking them together. Don't pull it too tight or you'll stretch it and it will just deform; save the stretching for round the edges onto the back...

 

IMG_20141101_120407260%2B%28719x1280%29.jpgIMG_20141101_122257098%2B%281280x719%29.jpgIMG_20141101_122221425%2B%281280x719%29.jpg

 

Bring it over the edges and repeat the process, doing the two sides first and bringing the material over the edge and sticking it onto the back. You can trim it down afterwards. Make cuts into the corners to allow it to fold but don't cut all the way to the metal panel. Trim the holes with a nice sharp knife blade and you're done (yes, I've left a hole at the moment as I'm not sure whether I need a switch for it!)...

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Cool, will sort this at the weekend. What are the sizes of the test balls they use too? I can see another practical use for a 3D printed model coming here - my own set of IVA Test Mushrooms (provided they're under 200mm in diameter :( )

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