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K-Series Gbs Zero


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Mucked around a bit last night making a badge for the back - quite happy with the results...! This is just a first run in transparent PLA; the final one will be black and printed with solid infill. I think it "works"...?


Includes a couple of lugs on the back to potentially locate it with and stop it moving; couple of 3mm holes in the rear panel will suffice, plus some sikaflex...




Did the initial text in Inkscape, exported it to DXF, loaded that into OpenSCAD and extruded it out to 3mm. Exported to STL, flipped it 180 degrees over so it prints with the visible face down (gets it nice and flat; the first layer you lay down obviously comes out flat as it prints onto the glass bed of the printer), converted it to G-code with Slic3r, then ran it off. Not a big print job, took about 30 minutes. The final version will not have the cross-hatching infill you can see here (that saves print material by filling in the bulk of the model with a re-enforced but hollow infill)... this is transparent PLA so you can see through it; final version will just be solid black plastic basically.

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Well, whaddya know, 20 minutes after posting the above, my black filament turned up, so I've ran it off and tried it (blu-tak'd for now) on the car. Looks excellent, I'm happy with that! Needs to be acetoned to smooth it off, but all in all....



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At the risk of lining myself up for more work :) I'm not averse to making the odd one for club members if they wish; obviously without the "K" I assume. Heck, you can have another letter in there if you want! Can do black or white. Or any other colour if you're happy to buy me the filament colour! Just cover the material costs and postage... probably all of £2+p&p....!

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  • 5 months later...

Five months. Wow :)


Ok, reality is, I had a little thing on the side that grew into something much bigger than I and a few friends anticipated, and it's now pretty much a business venture, so the last 5 months got taken up by a lot of that. But it's good news that it's all settled now, ready to move to the next step and free up all the time I was having to invest in it. It was too good an opportunity to pass up and it's worked out really well, so I'm glad I did it. This project was never driving towards a fixed date, so it was no big deal to myself. It's ready when it's ready ;)


So I've set about picking this back up now, and first job was to get the ECU in and the engine loom made up. So I've spent last weekend and today doing that.


I cheated a little and got the flying loom from Emerald to save a bit of time. Best thing to do, I find, is put the loom in the car, run the cables to their destination and cut to the correct length, then pull it all back out and heatshrink off the car. By hooking the loom up and keeping it taught, you can tack it together with some tape at regular intervals, then sleeve it with heatshrink nice and neat...




The Emerald ECU is pretty easy to make up, pretty much all the wires are there for you, the only thing that needs running engine-side that's not included by default are two 12v feeds to the injectors and the coil pack (red with white stripe....)


Coil pack sits on the engine bay panel and you can also see the main power distribution block from the battery sitting next to it also. The ECU loom is the top cable coming through the bulkhead on the left; the lower cable is the front spur for lights, sensors, rad fan and so forth. Nothing massively exciting here - just join the wires up to the relevant points. It's only really the coil pack and TPS that you have to be careful to get the pins right. Crank sensor on the Rover is a 2-wire inductive pickup; wiring for this is shielded and earthed at the ECU end only. All the rest are twisted pair/triple to keep inductive noise down to a minimum, not that it matters such much on many of them.




Injectors all marked up, going sequential on it over the previous build, not really for any other reason that why not - and should keep the injector duty cycle down which might help depending on how well rated the standard injectors are... should help me eek out 180bhp without having to worry too much about them (hopefully)....




ECU I managed to squeeze onto the bulkhead above the steering column/pedals, leaving me more room on the passenger side for the fusebox and potentially a wiper motor if I decide to go with a windscreen. The top vent of the heater isn't needed but the cables actually sit behind it anyway, hard to tell from this picture.




That's all for now. Will try and tickle away a bit more at the rest of the wiring loom tomorrow. The cylinder head is back from Dave Andrews and has been worked for up to 200bhp, although being a 1600 I won't get anywhere near this... I'll be happy with 170 to 180... but nice to know the head is good for it. I've also got the shortened sump to put on but I'm holding off on getting the thing confirmed running before I start swapping that out.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Almost done now with the loom. Spent the weekend carefully reading up my design and making up the central loom that brings all of the spurs together, into the main fusebox and switchgear. I haven't run the wires straight to their respective points (column, fusebox, switch panel, etc) but instead have done what I did on the Exmo, and made spurs that cover the front, the rear, the steering column, the ECU/engine and the dashboard/switchgear. These 5 sublooms all some to the area around where the TRM will be mounted, and then I've made up a main loom that runs behind the dash and interconnects all the sublooms accordingly.


This makes it very easy to do the spur looms, no real effort to run those into the car (they were done ages ago while building up the car) - all the hard work is in this main loom that interconnects everything together correctly. You can build it up on the bench rather than trying to do it in-situ. It might be twice the connectors but it's just a lot less risk - more forgiving - and less hassle in the long-run. And very flexible should things change in the future.




It's quite slow going compared to other jobs but I've rushed things like this in the past and only felt the pain afterwards, so it's very much a double-check of each connection as you go. I'm not going to jinx it by saying I'm fairly confident it'll be right first time, though :D. There's a couple of spare power feeds there (one ignition, one accessory) for future expansion too... like to think ahead.


Also did the back of the central switchgear. Horn, fog light, heater blower, ECU map selection and 12v socket.... fog light switch switches a relay to earth, so needed a resistor in the 'load output' (to earth) to ensure the LED illuminates.




Offered it into place behind the dash area just to make sure I'd got all the lengths right - thankfully I had, although the ECU one could have been a smidgen longer, but no worries. The TRM is just resting there for now; eventually it will be mounted up on the bulkhead with the relays/fuses accessible and the loom hidden behind it.




Getting close to proving it starting, so I'll probably do a few hours on the evenings this week and see if I can get it to that state - so close it's tantilising. A quick check of all the electrics and if there's no dramas, it will be time to file the paperwork off... :-o

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2 months from application to IVA date...


Just sayin' ;)


Yeah, exactly :) in that two months, I'll have left over :-

  • Panel out the boot area
  • Attach the front wings
  • Bleed the brakes
  • Swap the engine sump
  • Plumb up the cooling system, the fuel rail and the engine breather hoses
  • Fit the mirrors
  • Fit alternator
  • Clutch cable
  • Throttle cable
  • Panel up pedal box cover
  • Fit heater venting solution
  • Panel up tunnel + trim
  • Carpets
  • Seats
  • Fit dash
  • Set geometry
  • Fit harnesses

I think that's it?!

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