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K-Series Gbs Zero


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Only reason I suggest the convoluted tube is it seemed that it was treated as "contained in a secure hollow compartment" for my IVA, so even if tester doesnt like the bases, if it is in convoluted tube he may still pass it.

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Is that under the wheelarch, or the nosecone? I can understand the wires on the inside of the wheelarch needing protection... nosecone I'm thinking spiral wrap might suffice...


Everywhere! Nosecone, wheel arches and even under the dash!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Last couple of weekends I've done some bits but not got round to reporting in (slapped wrists)....


Tubed up the wiring in the nosecone following all of your recommendations...




Offered up the alternator to discover that the pressure hose for the Accusump doesn't have enough length on it to allow it to turn and clear the housing - so I'll need to get another longer hose made up :( oh well, these things happen, not the end of the world...




Started on the windscreen, now that I've got an IVA compliant one :). Must admit I've winged this a bit from my memory of how I did the screen on the Exmo... but approach seems to make sense. First job is to cut the rubber edging to approximate length, fold it equally around the curved top edge of the glass and tack it into place with clamps and gaffer tape, then offer up the top half of the windscreen frame.




It's then a case of using ratchet straps (or any other convenient method) to pull the frame onto the glass both horizontally and vertically. Now obviously you have to be careful here to not overdo it; it shouldn't take much pressure, but you do want to HOLD the frame onto the glass for the subsequent parts, as it will shift if you let it relax before you screw it tight. I'm painting my frame so I'm not too concerned about scuffs on the frame, but also think about that if you plan to keep it bare aluminium. Just take it easy and don't rush any of this whole process. Set aside a day for it and you'll be fine.




Once the top frame is on, you can repeat for the bottom half - obviously the needs offering up, marking and cutting before it will fit as it's supplied too long. Take is carefully, mark it oversize and take it down bit by bit with a file if need be, as you don't want it too short. Remember it needs to go onto the glass edge so you need to account for it being pushed up into place. When you're happy, repeat with the rubber edging then ratchet it onto the glass gently and hold it in place with the strap. The horizontal strap should not have been removed in ANY of this process. You should now have a rightly clamped frame onto the glass, but nothing holding the two parts of the frame together. Here's where it gets fun.


You want to mark a line that will intersect with the centre channel of the lower frame, so that you can drill through the outer frame AND inner frame enough to get a self tapper to bite into them and pull them together. There's not a lot of material on the lower frame but thankfully you're not relying on it, as you'll get the tapered head of the self tapper to bite into the channel edge rather than the central bit. Drill from the outside in, it's probably easier!




You'll probably need to dremel a bit of frame away to get the screw head in, but run a suitably sized self-tapper through from the inside out. Make sure it bites nicely into the outer frame as you need this tight. You don't want to be running this screw in and out multiple times :)




Obviously you'll have the screw tip sitting proud on the outside, this just needs trimming down. It'll be hidden behind the support frames so no need to worry about it visually.



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Repeat for the other side, remembering to always have that screen clamped up "noice and toight", and you should end up with a complete windscreen in a frame... :)




I didn't photo it, but you can then trim out the rubber with a sharp knife, and also the remainder of the frame on the lower corners (just carry the curvature of the lower frame across)

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  • 1 month later...

As seems to be a regular occurence with me, work has made the last few weeks too hectic to get anything done on the car (but as you've probably realised by now, I'm not fussed about it, I'm not working to a timeline). So not much to report, but figured I would just pop in and upload a bit of mediocre porn.... it's not sequential, but it's a step up from the BGH 5-speed... :) should keep the K on the boil....



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  • 2 months later...

Got some time at the weekend to get the windscreen ready to fit. Spent some time getting the profile of the side supports right; they actually don't need all that much bending - hopefully the photos below show. Just a slight curve to the triangular section, then a small "twist" at the base of the upright to take into account the angle of the scuttle sides front-to-back.




So masked it all up, primer'd, and sprayed a couple of coats of matt black, then a varnish coat to try and provide some protection from impacts...




Masked up the side of the scuttle as there's lots of to'ing and fro'ing trying things on here, so this saves the paint from scratching...




More to come...

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May be obv. may not;

Learned the hard way - masking tape likes to become permanent if left on for more than around 24 hours & can be a real s*d to get off cleanly.


WD40 will lift the glue, but the top layer is waterproof and hampers even this trick.


Completely agree; it will only be on for a week or two at the most which, IME, is not too bad. But don't leave it on for that job you think will be a week and turns out to be 6 months ;) been there and learnt that lesson!

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As seems to be a regular occurence with me, work has made the last few weeks too hectic to get anything done on the car (but as you've probably realised by now, I'm not fussed about it, I'm not working to a timeline). So not much to report, but figured I would just pop in and upload a bit of mediocre porn.... it's not sequential, but it's a step up from the BGH 5-speed... :) should keep the K on the boil....




Does that mean you are selling your BGH box?

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I will be, yes, but the plan is to get it all on the road first, then enjoy it for summer 2016 and not touch it - instead focusing on the rally car (I need to get back out there on the stages ASAP!). Once that's done, I can re-focus on the Zero and hopefully swap the box next year (along with the plate diff and the cylinder head/cams) - at this rate, probably next winter!

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Continuing on the instructions for fitting the screen... so we'd left it with the frame all constructed and painted up, including the brackets, so it's ready to drop it on the scuttle now. First thing to do before that is to fit the rubber sealing strip into the channel on the frame, underneath the screen. This loosely seals the frame against the bulkhead, although most people (myself included) tend to put some additional sealant such as sikaflex on here too.


The parts where the channel was opened up to fit the screws that pinch the frame up make useful "entry points" for where to slide your rubber seal in to. A bit of washing up liquid rubbed along the edge of the seal, where is runs in the frame, will make this a lot easier too. You don't need loads, just a thin layer across the length of the seal, and it'll slide in nicely (ooo sir)....




Leave some overlap at the ends (cut off the top "T" part with a blade) to seal down the sides of the frame - you can trim it nicely later once it's on the car.




I also cut down some more screws and finally tight-fitted the screen to the frame, 4 screws each side. Take great care to (1) make sure they're not too long that they impact the glass through the frame and crack it (2) that they bite into the aluminium nice and tight and (3) that you don't cross the heads. Take your time.




With the side brackets pre-drilled (I've used some stainless dome-headed 10mm bolts), offer it up onto the bulkhead, probably with the assistance of a colleague/friend/missus/well trained monkey, and mark up the bracket on one side first. There's probably a tendency to over-think this, but in reality this is what I did, and I don't think it matters all too much... the key thing is that you need space in front of the screen for some wipers, and you need space behind for some air vents. Likewise put the bonnet on, because the bracket will need to clear this too. Otherwise, provided the screen is level and straight, I can't see if really mattering that it has to be X mm up from the scuttle seam, or Y mm from the dashboard edge. For reference, mine came to 32mm up from the scuttle lower edge, and about 100mm parallel with the trailing edge of the scuttle.


Get the one side where you think it looks right - enough space in front and behind the screen, and the rubber seal low enough that it's generally sealing the bulkhead. A point on this - it doesn't need to be hard pressed down onto the bulkhead. Also, it's likely to ripple at the ends and there will be gaps - don't worry about this, some sealant will sort that out. Once it looks about right, mark it up, then get it held tight on that side. Measure the distance to the bottom scuttle line, and the dashboard edge. Now, with someone still holding that side tight, go over to the other side, measure up the same, and get that side into the same position. Now do a visual check on the screen - it should look straight across the car (ie. the distance behind the screen to the top of the dashboard on each side should be the same), and the gap under the screen should be fairly consistent. If it looks right, it probably is. Unless you've got wonky eyes, in which case, ask someone else.


If you're happy, mark up the front lower hole in one frame, remove the screen, drill it, refit the screen and pop a bolt through loosely. Now re-check it all, with the one side nipped up enough on that single bolt that you can be a bit more accurate and not have to worry about the side slipping down. Once double-checked, mark all the holes up on the scuttle, take it all off again, and drill them out. Remove all the masking tape, clean up the scuttle if needed, then re-fit and loosely nip up the bolts.




Eventually these can be tightened up but I'm going to leave them loose for now in case the wiper/vent fitting requires removal again - also, it will all need sikaflexing at some point - but the slight gaps in the brackets should scrunch up when it's tightened. You'll also notice I did 3 bolts per side but I know most people only do the bottom 2; your mileage may vary. The top bolt will probably need a spacer or curved washer putting in place to avoid damaging/creasing the bulkhead side (not that it's visible externally) but when you've got a 3D printer little faffs like this aren't a problem ;)


Windscreen really starts to make it look like a car though :) quite good inspiration to get cracking on!

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Guest 2b cruising

Brumster. Your write up is all well laid out for anyone to read and understand.

If you were to publish instruction guides, I think you could end up as a mill yonare. As Dell boy would say.

Edited by 2b cruising
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