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K-Series Gbs Zero


brumster
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Doesn't look like much progress on the pictures front but in reality last weekend was quite busy :) I fitted the front footwell panels, the rear side panels (the infill ones with the half-crescents on them), and the rear cockpit panel. I guess most people are aware of the procedure for these, but just in case someone is using this as a reference...

 

I put the panel in place, aligned it to the relevant chassis tubes, clamped into place and marked with a permanent marker where the chassis tubes cover it. It's then a case of remove it and mark it up for where the rivets will go - I spaced them evenly along each run at 3" or whatever fitted the measurement really. Used a press drill on the bench, 3.5mm drill bit, slow speed and nice a gentle pressure so you don't bend the aluminium panel by putting "dinks" into it. Then brake cleaner the permanent marker off it, refit to chassis, reclamp, then use the holes to drill out the matching holes in the chassis. 3.5mm cobalt drill bits only here, again a slow speed, moderate pressure, no need for any cooling lubrication at this size if you don't rush it.

 

Remove the panel for the final time, and peel away the protective plastic covering from around the rivet holes (because if you leave it until after you've riveted, you'll never get the plastic pulled away from around the rivet and you'll be left with little tufts of the stuff). Resist the urge to rip it all off. Run a bead of Sikalfex 221 down each part that will rest against a chassis rail - a small bead, say about 6mm diameter or so, because it will squash up once the panel is fitted. Now refit the panel, using the ripped plastic as a convenient way to hold it on the covered side. Use some rivets to locate it along the holes, then rivet away. Be careful if you're using a conventional rivet gun that you pop the rivet as gentle as you can do to prevent the rivet tool jerking across your nice clean aluminium panel leaving a dirty great scratch :). It'll happen a few times and you'll curse yourself like I did.

 

It's a bit laborious but kind of therapuetic I think....!

 

IMG_20131123_153813+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

Anyway, the sunday was swallowed up with some 3mm plate, the plasma cutter, lots of bench grinder fettling and eventually I had finished making up some nice spacers for the lower engine mounts. I welded in a 3mm plate on the right hand side to fill the gap between the chassis legs where the new mount needed to sit. By the end of the day, finally, the engine mounts were in place. I also did the gearbox one while I was at it - which is basically just the standard mount but cut down to fit in between the chassis rails. I've mounted it on the top rather than underneath to give me some clearance from the ground; can't see any significant problem with doing this over underneath, other than making it an engine-out job to swap if it ever needed changing.

 

IMG_20131201_132133+%25281280x960%2529.jpgIMG_20131201_132146+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

Doesn't look much for a days effort does it :( where does the time go :lazy:

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Hi Dan,

just a heads up.....

I used similar looking engine mounts....mine were from a Jag.....

 

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=jag+engine+mounts&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=eI6fUtL1CNKg7AaWoYCgCQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1241&bih=583#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=vNkmB8-TOK9s4M%3A%3BCO5lFPzbQqbShM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fthumbs2.ebaystatic.com%252Fd%252Fl225%252Fm%252FmREQkUrxqg-Quuk88Cav-YA.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fbhp%252Fjaguar-mount%3B225%3B169

 

 

but after 4k miles both threaded inserts had pulled out from the rubber.

Took some finding, I had awful clutch judder & couldnt figure out why....they were under a big engine mount arm out of sight.

Could have been poor alignment on my part when I fitted the XE?

Anyway, just something to keep an eye on...

Bob

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Thanks chap - you are right, they are Caterham engine mounts but they are basically Jag mounts as you have discovered. I bought these direct from Caterham and they served in the old Exmo for several years... but granted not a lot of mileage (probably only 1000 miles covered). I will keep an eye on them then... at least they should be cheap and easy to replace :-S !!

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I bet they last!

 

Mine were dictated a little bit by the fact that I used Caterham engine mounts, so it was the easy option. I wonder if their mounts, albeit patterns of the original Jag, are in any way better engineered... fingers crossed :D. Thanks for the note, though, it's that sort of stuff that's good to know.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Two weekend of DIY have slowed things down but I do now have a lovely comfortable office to work in :)

 

More shiney bits turned up...

 

IMG_20131213_112719+%25281280x960%2529.jpg

 

SPA Dash system, which is basically a single unit of everything I need on the dash bar some switches. Speedo, rev counter, trip, integrated warning lights and so forth, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure and fuel gauge.

 

Playing around finalising the master cylinder position too, will need to space it towards the back of the car a little to get proper leverage on the pedal/pivot point, so more spacers to make up with the plasma and grinder :( slow process, I need a CNC mill :) !!

 

Good news is 2 weeks off over christmas now so, with the exception of some apparent festive celebration that the missus tells me I need to be a part of, I should get some good work done over the next fortnight... if I'm sober enough :-S

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Playing around finalising the master cylinder position too, will need to space it towards the back of the car a little to get proper leverage on the pedal/pivot point, so more spacers to make up with the plasma and grinder :( slow process, I need a CNC mill :) !!

 

what is wrong with the Zero master cylinder position?

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what is wrong with the Zero master cylinder position?

 

It's too close to the top of the pedal; the piston is practically touching the pedal top so there's no room for a bolt and the clevis arrangement. So need to just space it towards the back of the car to let the pedal have some degree of movement/adjustment. I'll photo it at some point, will explain better. Remember it's a Ka m/c not standard sierra ;)

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I guess most people are aware of the procedure for these, but just in case someone is using this as a reference...

 

Hi Dan - just wanted to quickly say that I'm really enjoying this build thread and as a newbie to kit car building I also really appreciate the time you're taking to do these guides for the benefit of people like me. :good:

 

Keep up the great work! Really looking forward to seeing how your car turns out.

 

Cheers

Tony

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It's too close to the top of the pedal; the piston is practically touching the pedal top so there's no room for a bolt and the clevis arrangement. So need to just space it towards the back of the car to let the pedal have some degree of movement/adjustment. I'll photo it at some point, will explain better. Remember it's a Ka m/c not standard sierra ;)

 

now I understand :D

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Sorted out the pedal box with a combination of actions really. Firstly, chopped a short piece off the actual master cylinder piston (it was much longer than necessary). Obviously pretty irriversible this, so if you do go this route be careful not to take so much off that you're not left with anything to locate the threaded bar, AND that you don't chop off too much and create a 'ridge' that might bind when it is fully pushed into the master cylinder at full pedal travel.

 

In conjunction with the above, I then took two 3mm metal plate (cut to the m/c pattern) and temporarily padded them apart with washers to get the right distance between the m/c and the clevis arrangement on the top of the pedal. Obviously there's some adjustment in the threaded rod (here missing a locknut - I don't have a fine pitch nut yet so will need to find one to lock it off!) but I basically want the pedal to rest at the appropriate position, and ensure that I get the full travel of the pedal at the m/c end. It's really all about getting the resting position right - with room for fine tuning on the threaded bar, if necessary.

 

IMG_20131223_163232752+%25281280x719%2529.jpg

 

I also made the pedal stop arrangement that the later cars have. In my case, it's impossible for the threaded bar to fully pull out of the master cylinder, BUT if the pedal is lifted the threaded bar does disengage from the machined recess in the end of the master cylinder, and lodges onto the lip, effectively locking the pedal much higher than is useable - so it needed to be done all the same, even if the rod didn't fall out.

 

IMG_20131223_163246617+%25281280x719%2529.jpg

 

The bolt will just provide a level of adjustment, again, with locknuts to be added (and the bolt cut down somewhat so it fits in the pedalbox enclosure!). The pedal now enjoys full travel, rests where I want it and is prevented from any dangers when lifted up.

 

On top of all that, my letter came from the DVLA advising me of my chassis number, so todays job is to stamp that into a plate and weld it fully onto the front engine bay crossmember like everyone else seems to. I considered stamping the number straight into the chassis tube but I am worried the clobbering might deform the tube, so prefer to put it onto a plate separately and weld it fully onto the tube instead. I presume this is why most I've seen have gone this route - also easier to fix if you bugger it up!

 

Job for today is the chassis number and weld up the m/c spacer permanently, then I can finish off the front brake lines and consider putting the side panels on (they are taking up space and fitting them will allow me to locate the brake lines at the front end). I can't think of anything now that will get in the way - I will pre-drill the engine bay for the wiring loom and hoses, so I think they can go on.... but I might end up changing my mind I guess, particularly when someone on here reminds me what I'll cover up with them that I'll need to get to :D

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