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K-Series Gbs Zero


brumster
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Did a few extra aluminium panels; one under the dash/scuttle to put things like ECU and fuseboard on, and the usual little fillets in the back chassis area around the diff where the fuel pump goes. Pretty obvious to most people but in the interests of making a build thread that's useful for complete noobs....

 

Measure your panel out in card first, trim it to suit the area...

 

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...then transfer that onto the metal, mark around an cut. Use proper metal shears, left or right handed depending upon the edge you're cutting. To avoid a sawtooth cutting pattern on the final metal, DON'T cut with the snips through their full travel but stop just before the fully closed position - edge along a bit, cut some more. Avoids the bad finish when the point of the cutter goes through the material.

 

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Finish off with a file and/or bench wheel and you're sorted.

 

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The rear fillets needs a little more trimming after this phot was taken, in order to clear the welds and sit flat, but you get the idea...

 

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The shiney bits arrived from Procomp....

 

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They are Protech dampers but as I'm sure you know, Procomp re-engineer the valving in them to be appropriate for lighter cars like ours. I've gone spherical joints (1/2" bolt) with the machined spacers you can see to pack out to 1.25" on the mounts... with the exception of the top front, which I'll use washers/additional spacers to pack appropriately once it's finally fitted. Bigger 2.5" ID springs, too, preferable over 1.9". I've gone a 25lb lighter on each corner than the norm, which is just personal preference really as I like the car to be supply and move around a bit. The springs are only £22 a pop so if this ends up being a bad call it's hardly the end of the world.

 

A quick trial fit because you can't resist getting home and putting a shiny bit on :)....

 

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I also sorted out the gearbox/engine angle issue thanks to eBay... sourced a Caterham bellhousing. Chuffed with this, as it's saved me spending £425 on a QED bellhousing that's exactly the same (to all intents and purposes). Was a lucky wheel for this to pop up I think!

 

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I know, I did think about that - I've been careful to round off the edges and none of it will protrude out from underneath, nor offer anything pointy/sharp to the kneecaps :D. So it won't prove any more obstructive that the standard crossbar that it mounts on.

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I've got the flat GRP one from GBS. I'm assuming it would come under the "Shelves" classification in section 12 of the IVA manual? All things sitting on it will be more than 25mm high, although I'm not sure the ECU edges are rounded enough. I'll make them non-contactable by the sphere in some way - either by making an aperture that the sphere can't fit through, or otherwise maybe just a cover/door arrangement that covers it all up but it removeable for access to fuses/etc?

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Tickled away a bit more at the weekend.

 

Rear brake lines in, went overkill on the fastener spacing at 100mm :) lots of photos taken (and even some video) as evidence at IVA.

 

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...and the rear lines to the flexis, and the fuel pump while I was at it...

 

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Finalised the column too, although there's no adjustment in it as such. You can see the new spherical bearing that supports it so well at the front end, but I've also left the rubberised ford bush in place to seal the bulkhead up, although it does nothing in terms of supporting the column.

 

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Started running the fuel lines. It's going to be tough getting feed, return AND wiring loom down one side so I assume it will be okay to run the return line along the brake line and zip-tie it to the brake line at regular intervals? Is this acceptable? Or does the fuel line need it's own clips into the chassis? There's obviously not enough room on the chassis tube to put two sets of clips in there, one for brake line and one for fuel line, so I assume this is ok provided the zip-ties holding the fuel pipe to the brake pipe are <300mm apart?

 

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The other main job, and good news to report, is the trial fit for the second time of the engine/gearbox with the Caterham bellhousing. And it fits, and all the problems are solved, thank goodness :)

 

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I also took the original Robin Hood steering column extension (which is too long) and ground out the welds, shortened and re-sleeved/welded the end fitting so it's now the right distance between column and steering rack - saved me a few quid buying a new one from GBS :)

 

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Next jobs are, I think, to get the engine mounts sorted and take it all back out again. Then finish off the central column, mainly with the wiring needed, so that I can panel it up along with the bulkhead and plan around where the wiring loom and hoses are all going to pass in/out.

 

Are there any gotchas I should be aware of before fixing the battery tray panel and bulkhead panel in place? Or do I *have* to do them in conjunction with the whole scuttle panel to get the positioning/spacing right?

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Hi pressure fuel pump in rear?

 

What tank are you running, intergral swirl pot or standard?

 

Fuel lines must be in there own separate P clips and if on the same side as the electrics then the electrics must be the highest with all fluid pipes below.

 

not neccesary if you use factory setup. Brake line clips, 150 mm apart (max is 300 mm brake pipe alone), support brake pipe, fuel feed and return pipe (lift pump pressure) and loom. IVA compliant, and less holes in a nicely painted or powder coated chassis. :)

 

Could you not run copper fuel lines down tunnel

Ihad to retro fit as had rubber split and spray wife with fuel thank fully still in the drive way

 

Stephen

 

Another reason for running factory setup, low pressure down car, high pressure only where you need it. Less expensive high pressure pipe, copper, rubber, whatever. Less chance of joint leak. Simpilest and easy fit, cheap, functional, and meets requirements.

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Wow, a wealth of opinions there! I went scouring the IVA manual in fear last night and this morning! There is nothing stating wiring has to be above fuel lines. There is nothing mandating the use of p-clips. I will use the zip-tie method to attach just one rubber fuel return hose along the brake line which, considering it's p-clipped to the chassis at 100mm intervals, should be more than sturdy enough. And I'll avoid using razor edged zip-ties :-S but 4mm+ jobbies. When pulling them up, I'll avoid putting the full weight of the titanic onto them.

 

Hi pressure fuel pump in rear?

 

What tank are you running, intergral swirl pot or standard?

 

Yes, high pressure low down at the back. The tank is baffled, don't worry ;). I take your point but I had no hose supplied with the kit and already had the proper rubber fuel hose so the standard setup wasn't really necessary.

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