alanrichey

I was also unable to find a set of blades with that fitment to the arm. I eventually managed to find a set I could attach with the 2 screws but I had to grind off the side bars as they were too narrow to fit over the spade. So I think you will have to do some surgery whatever you get. I actually managed to fit 10" ones as well, not a lot of clearance but a much better sweep than the previous 7" ones.

Just for interest, I found that when I added a loud buzzer and a high intensity LED light to my system (I don’t have a self cancel and was forever leaving an indicator on) then, because of the extra current drain, the normal diagnosis of indicator frequency doubling if a bulb failed, didn’t work anymore. So I have to regularly check they are still working while in the garage.

I've discussed this on the forum before. My Superspec has the standard twin outlet from the silencer. On the advice of a Club member I actually blanked off one of the pipes with a bung to see if it helped the emissions (a long standing problem with the Superspec). To my surprise the car ran appreciably better, much sharper, better throttle reaction..... Discussions at Car Shows ("why have you blocked off the exhaust ?") seemed to show the the better performance came from increasing the back pressure in the system, which the engine seemed to like. Obviously the exhaust system was never designed or tuned for the engine it was just made of parts that Robin Hood Engineering to get hold of, so the explanation made sense to me. So I would think that increasing the bore size would actually reduce the back pressure and have a negative effect. And the same effect would be seen by removing the cat, as that would also reduce the back pressure. So I will be very interested in the result, but it may not be what you expect.

Am I wrong or did the Stilton Cheese Run always benefit a national charity (Air Ambulance ?) I see the 3 options are a refund, transfer it to next year or give it to Uppingham. I would actually like to give it to a national charity so I guess I will have to ask for a refund and then do it individually.

Interesting, first time I have heard of a Type 9 being used in a Superspec. Nice to hear of another one still running. We think there were about 50 actually sold and we still have a handle on about 15 of them. If you let me know the engine number (it's on the V5), I can tell you what car your engine was destined for, which makes it easier for ordering parts. I also have a ton of documentation on the engine which you are welcome to. Finally I highly recommend you run my ECU diagnosis software to make sure everything is working OK.

It’s been a standing problem for all SuperSpecs. I must admit I don’t have any experience of the Duratec engine as I have the Rover ‘T’. I’m on my second sump having holed my first one. I managed to gain a bit by winding up the shocks And I then fitted a fairly heavy duty stainless guard. So I still ground fairly often but it is the guard that takes the punishment. I’m sure other Superspec owners will have other ideas.

Interesting, on mine none of them were welded but 7 out of the 8 bolt heads were crimped into the runners so they wouldn't turn. So I could easily undo the nuts from underneath and remove the passenger seat. On the drivers rear inboard the bolt just kept turning. However, with 3 of the 4 bolts removed I got my wife to push the seat sideways enough to jam the bolt head so I could remove the nut.

I agree. But make sure you top up with the proper MT75 oil, which is specially designed to last for the life of the gearbox. Ordinary gear oil is not sufficient.

I drilled one hole at the top to feed the wire through, then a slightly larger on where the roll bar goes into the body. I fed some string through the hole and once it appeared at the bottom hole I then borrowed my wife's crochet hook to grab the string. Then I attached the string to the wire and pulled it through. Obviously if the bottom of your roll bar is open then you don't need to do that. Mine has solid ends for some reason.

I also drilled the roll bar, as I didn't want to have the wire showing. As a temporary fix I just used black plastic insulating tape at each end to hold the LED bar in position. That was in August 2016 and it is still perfect so it moved from a temporary fitting to a permanent one

Someone in the Club recommended 'Showroom Shine' from Greased Lightning (https://www.greasedlightning.co.uk/) It is superb, cleans and polishes in one go. The bottle lasts for years.

I actually tried this a couple of years ago. See http://the-superspec-journey.blogspot.com/2016/09/gave-her-good-wash-yesterday-and.html I just replaced one side and then took the car to the Greetham classic car meet to ask for opinions. It was unanimous, everyone preferred the originals, much brighter and easier to see. However, I will admit they were cheap Chinese ones off E-Bay so maybe it wasn't a valid test compared to the CBS ones.

Did you not have the original door hinges ? I simply fabricated some brackets from stainless steel and put them on the same bolts as the original door hinge so I could continue to put the doors on if required.

Yes. See https://www.greatbritishsportscars.com/blog/gbs-cars-amp-coffee-event-update As I'm over 70 I won't be there

Irlam, Greater Manchester

The most important thing to check is the V5. Make sure it is correctly registered as a Robin Hood. If not, then walk away Later: Ignore this, I just did an MOT check on the number plate and it does come up as a Robin Hood.

Fitting wind deflectors was the best thing I ever did. Ever since then I have not used the doors except when I am leaving the car out overnight when rain is forecast. When I had both doors and top fitted I found it very claustrophobic, noisy and with very limited visibility. Without the doors the environment is transformed and no different to driving without the top. Obviously if the rain is horizontal you will get wet, but so far that has not happened to me. It took 2 attempts, as you can see from the picture the first ones did not go down far enough and the wind still came into the cockpit. So I made some longer ones. I haven't bothered to shape them to fit the car profile, but probably should have done. I just mounted them on the same hinges as the doors, using scrap pieces of stainless steel. In that way I can still put the doors on when required.

Hi Had forgotten that, one of the penalties of getting old Cable in the post, looking forward to seeing your trace. It will definitely show if the lambda sensor is working or not. Al

True Although your profile simply says Robin Hood as your car, we are assuming you actually have a 2B Superspec ? If so the 3-pin cable is not available commercially any more, so we Superspec owners have all built our own. Although I see that someone has actually built one and it is available on E-Bay, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-MEMS-Classic-Mini-Land-Rover-OBD-Diagnostic-CABLE/303464172974?hash=item46a7dfcdae:g:Lu0AAOSwn~JdoHGK However, I have a spare one I can lend you for a short time if you PM me your address. Having said that, your problem could be a fuel related and I am not sure that would show up on the analysis, but it is certainly worth checking. You might be one of the very few Superspec owners to have a working lambda sensor before checking If you haven't downloaded the PC software it is at http://www.rmrsoft.com/mems-scan.zip Let me know how you get on Al Later: I see I made the same offer back in September but never received a reply ? Did you get the message ?

Standard 2B Superspec, with the 'T' series Rover 2L.

Yes, 12-15 times (I lived in Naples for 3 years and every visitor had to do it ) but that was my pre-kit days so I did it in a Volvo estate. My advice is to it in a right-hand drive car. Doing it in a left-hand drive is very scary, and you are lucky if you still have a wing mirror at the end of it.

It’s a shame that they have prevented cars leaving before the end. I had made a new year resolution to not attend any venues that implemented this practice, but at least it isn’t an early start. And resolutions are meant to broken, so count me in