nelmo

Can't see that being a problem for IVA as long as it meets the other requirements (vented, can't remove key when the cap is off etc). You may have to think about what happens if you overfill the tank by mistake. With the standard position, the excess just runs down the panel to the floor but if its on top, any overflow may go into your boot.

Those HC alternators are a pile of junk - mine died on me after 6 months as well. GBS have stopped using them now, they did only sell the Denso version (although I see a Powerlite model on their website now?), which is where I got mine from. Bit pricey at £220 so might be cheaper to repair, as Ian says....although you'll be repairing junk to slightly-less-junk IMO

Nah, they won't - I had all my holes ready to go - I even had mounting holes in the firewall for the motor! I doubt they're allowed to think that way otherwise nothing would get through - there are huge numbers of things that could change after IVA...

Wow, bet GBS were happy! Turning into more of a motor show than just a GBS meet

GBS Ford with a lowered sump from Tiger Racing, which raises it to be just above the main chassis rails - about 110mm. My bellhousing is actually 10mm lower so more at risk than my sump but I've fitted a bash plate to help minimise that. My seat bolts are the things that regularly hit the road

Your comment made me look into that whole Ford Pinto saga (before my time) - interesting reading. Bottom line, there were over 3 million Pintos made and there were 4 recorded deaths from fire, 3 of those in one car. The Pinto was later proved to be no better or worse than any of it's contemporaries - where Ford went wrong was writing an internal memo that got leaked; the memo put values on injuries that might be sustained in an accident ($60k for a death etc) which REALLY annoyed people, understandably. So when the first case went to court, the lawyers said Ford didn't care, the jury bought it and awarded huge payouts to the victims family - that is why it is a famous case. The safety or not of the car was almost irrelevant.

I'm sure the can wasn't just sat in the boot - setup with something to ignite it, maybe. If you're an accident bad enough for that to become an issue, I'd imagine you'd have far more serious issues to worry about, like finding your missing body parts...

Yeah but you can have a spare can of petrol in the boot

Now come on, where's the fun in that? Or are you selling yours and this is an advert? I've never heard of a 4WD kit, certainly not as standard, anyway. If I was you, I'd be looking at buying an old Lada Riva, Suzuki Jimny or Fiat Panda 4x4. Personally, however, I would never want an EV 4x4, especially if you actually want to use it off-road properly. Can you imagine crawling through a snowstorm, middle of nowhere, with the battery down to your last 5 miles?

+1 for Intatrim - I've had mine for 14k miles and they look like new. But best of all, they do a huge number of colours and styles if you want something specific and I'm pretty sure they'll be less than your £750 budget (mine cost me £500 in 2016).

Yup, that's pretty much what I've decided to do except the latch will go on a bracket attached to the dash piece, rather than the 'box'. This is because the 'box' is going to have to be fairly flexible because I need to get to the fuse box which will be behind it. If that makes any sense?

FI = fuel injection So I've never had carbs and not sure if you can use a pancake filter with FI - definitely wouldn't fit my setup. Sorry, I can't recommend anything better - I just heard they were a bit pants unless you're only interested in the looks.

I've only ever had FI but I was told those pancake filters are rubbish. They look nice and blingy for show cars but not good filters otherwise... no idea if that is true?

Yeah, you can't get a V5 log book unless it has passed SVA, so if you've got one, you're fine. In fact, probably helped you get a better deal as it might have put off other buyers

Not really got a name, but this is the kit I bought. Just to clarify, I'm not saying this is the best way to do this, just what I eventually settled on. I still have lots of plugs just using these connectors as well which are still working OK.

I've tried numerous different methods. I started crimping because my soldering skills are rubbish but it turned out my crimping skills were just as bad and I had numerous problems. I started soldering instead, which was sometimes OK but I still had issues because I was just so bad at it, making big, lumpy connections. I then realised that I had being using my crimp tool incorrectly so I went back to crimping BUT I also soldered as well. I bought a kit full of these types of connectors: So crimp in 2 places, once on the insulation, then on the bare end and then a blob of solder (I'm good at them) where the bare wire is visible. If you want larger plugs, I strongly recommend these DT plugs - work really well and very secure.

The problem with all those latches is that they work with panels at 90deg to each other - my panels are 180deg to each other (as per my sketch above). I have a caravan but my doors all either have a handle/button or have a perpendicular surface but I'll check that, thanks

Well, I can't say for sure but when I had mine done, they needed the measurement from windscreen to rollbar. Now, on modern builds like mine, that was probably pretty similar to others (GBS pre-drilled holes for the windscreen) but I don't know about the 2B. I was under the impression that there was much more leeway as to where builders had put their parts and thus no 2 cars would have the same measurements? In which case, it would be tricky to have a generic roof, especially as a full roof (if that's what it is) has a lot more bits to fit. Hopefully, someone who actually has a 2B and knows about this stuff will reply

You're unlikely to be able to use someone else's anyway - every car is different, so more cash I'm afraid, to get one made. Softbits will do a Surrey top for around £250 - I've got one, it's brilliant.

Oooh, now that's quite a good idea, if not cheating . Also not sure I have the depth behind the dash to fit that in. I was thinking about a cup holder but then I realised that with a kit, I can't imagine any drink staying in the cup for more than 30 seconds - they're not exactly a floating carpet-style ride (well, not mine, certainly) . I guess if you had a sealed cup but they tend to be quite large - I've got a couple which wouldn't fit into that size. Back to the drawing board...

Ah well, then we're on to the story of why you should always get a roof and doors IMO Yeah, tell me about it - I was well hacked off...

I actually didn't want anything showing, not even a lock. I'm not too concerned about security - there will probably only be some cables and cheap odds and ends inside.

So continuing on with this, anyone know of a push-to-open/close latch that will work on 2 butted panels, like this: I don't want a handle on the outside or a lock, just something you push down on to open and close. I don't know if something like this exists (I'd be amazed if not) so I don't know what to search for. I've tried just scrolling through hundreds of different latches but nothing like this yet.

I hope that works out for you - I originally bought some nice comfy seats which JUST fitted into the chassis - but by the time I had added panels, carpet and the seatbelt bolts, I couldn't get the damn things in, even after removing the plastic bits around the recliner mechanism and hacking off the plastic on the handle This is on the GT chassis as well...although I think the 2B is pretty big, so hopefully, it will work out. Those other seats (pic below) cost me £250 and I sold them on eBay for £35