richyb66

A couple of people have asked for the address, it's: Market Harborough Showground. Gallow Field Road. Market Harborough. LE16 7QB

I think this car is very good value even though it needs an IVA. https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/49713-robin-hood-2b-for-sale-requires-finishing/

PRICE DROPPED TO £1500. Even with the cost of the IVA, this car could be on the road for a very good price.

A day late with this, probably due to the excitement of having the first major event of the year, Stoneleigh kit Car Show last weekend and probably the last , End of Season Bash, this weekend. Not sure how I'm going to cope with so much in less than a week. Welcome to the following new members that joined in August: Chris C Dangermoose1 Lincoln Matt B Matt Bibb Maldon Jason C Jason Crisp Loughborough Roger C roger cook Sutton in Ashfield Scott P Scott Povey Jedburgh Hopefully there will be some newer members coming to EOSB at market Harborough this weekend and we'll get to meet them there.

Zetec on bike carbs would save you a world of pain and probably cheaper. There's no best ECU, you basically get what you pay for. Microsquirt is cheaper but problematic from my experience, Emerald or Omex more expensive but in my opinion better overall.

Most likely to be the hazard switch, there's 2 switches in it that supply a feed to the LH and RH indicators when the hazards are switched on. You might be able to flush out the switch with some electrical cleaner.

Can't believe it's only got one screw holding it on. Have you given it a few taps with a small hammer in case it's just stuck on? No much you can do even if it is apart other than a clean with brake cleaner of the moving bits and a buff up with emery of the main contacts. Did you fit thicker wire for the pulling wire on the solenoid? The wire gauge looked ok at the solenoid end but weedy at the connector under the dash.

I expect there to be a second screw holding the solenoid like the red line. You will probably need to remove the green screws to get to it. Three or maybe four of them

I've still got a few club mugs left. If anyone wants one for a fiver, come and find me on Saturday or Sunday.

What rad do you have currently? The standard kit Coolman rad is more than up to the job, I still use one on my V8. The keys to good cooling are to ensure the thermostat is working, no air locks, get as much air as possible in to the rad (by fitting ducting around the rad). If the basics aren't right, no rad will keep things cool. Honda Civic rad like this fits a 2B with some cutting of the steering rack support for the bottom hose. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124528799686

Me

The car is now sold. Hopefully the new owner will get it finished, IVAd and on the road.

Next Wednesday , 7PM onwards, Malt Shovel Pub, Coventry Road, Nr Stonebridge, Coventry, CV7 7HL Entrance to the pub car park is off the A452 Chester Road heading North 50 yards from the island.

Thanks for doing the organising guys, we had a great weekend. Just for the benefit of those that don't know, Kerry and Sharon applied for club funding which paid for the BBQ on Saturday. This is a great way for the club to give a bit more to members. If anyone else wants to organise an event, they can apply for funding by contacting any committee member.

Knowing real V8 class when they saw it, they made a rapid exit. https://youtu.be/pPEoUOcnl1k

Apparently none if you're the guy on the main gate at Belvoir Castle who waved us through in the kit car when we should have been in the public car park. This meant we drove up the main winding driveway to park up with this lot. Needless to say I parked on the end, a bit round the corner. A few people did take pictures though after they heard us coming up the driveway.

Pretty sure it was to only way a 2B could be bought in kit form at the time it was sold. Probably more margin in it for RH by adding parts that not everyone had previously ordered. I think the Superspec was available alongside it which was even more comprehensive.

2b Plus has wishbone front suspension that not all 2B's had (some were sliding pillar). It also had stainless steel chassis and panels, steering rack, rear coil over dampers, harnesses, alloys with Yokohama tyres, stainless manifold and silencer and wiring loom included in the price. Basically it was a more comprehensive kit to start building with.

Glad it wasn't just me that struggle first time. It does get easier with practice. Maybe you should offer to check / adjust members cars in your area for a small fee?

I never got any confirmation email but they have just sent me the gate codes.

No problem in this case. We have had issues previously so you'll understand our wish to avoid a repeat.

The laser needs line of sight across the car. It's not a problem on kits normally bit I have had problems on modern cars with aero aids on the bottom of the bumper in front of the wheels. This would presumably be a problem using Dunlop type tracking gauges as well.

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http://www.trackace.co.uk/ I have one of these, takes a bit of setting up but works well.