megadodo

Absolutely bloody amazing! Well done folks, what a club! I would to put my name down to help but as with any of the shows my presence is always weather dependant and don't want to volunteer and not show up! I have quite a good digital video camera that never gets used, if the club want's it, it's the clubs. It's a JVC-DVL357E, it's by no means a modern jobbie but it is digital, it records on to tape or SD card and there are 3 batteries. Just let me know.

PVA glue, mix it with water 10:1 (water:PVA) and put a couple of coats on the wood. When dry, lightly sand with a 400 grit and the carbon wrap will stick nicely. My gauge pod was plywood and I just used some varnish I had lying around, carbon wrap still stuck to that after 2 years!

Does sound the floats need adjusting to me as well! Maybe the valve to seat interface is dirty possibly?

What is a cheque?

I never have had a problem with Burton. Ordered 2 fuel pumps from them the week before last, didn't pay for next day delivery but there were at my house the next day!

I have just got back from my first drive with the camber wedges fitted. I got them from Peter Bell on this forum. I have read all the theory but the proof of the pudding is in the eating as they say! What an obvious difference they make, well worth the cost and effort! The "twitchyness" (is that a word?) in a straight line has gone, the car always had to be corrected a lot when driving in a straight line, not much but you were aware of, not any more! The bump steer where the back of the car would jiggle over bumps and ruts has gone as well. If these improvements were the only ones then it would be worth but there's more! I swear the car rolls less in a corner and the break away at the limit seems higher on corners I know well and abuse regularly! I couldn't think of a better £32 spent on that car so far. Now I'm contemplating the GBS front end improved handling kit!

I have just fitted mine this morning, took the hubs right off and only had to file the inner hole out a fraction on the shims to get them to sit on the lip of the hub. Once on the wheel sits nicely vertical. I gave the disc a lick of paint while they were off! For those interested, these are the shims. They are tapered in 2 directions This is where they go. And this what they look like when fitted. View from the rear and from the front

Nothing to do with me, a classic fla

Looking good, but tidy up those spark plug leads!

I'll be making my own way there, have we got a stand number or location?

Seconded on Hammerite for brake calipers! Use it on my daily drive and the paint is still hanging on in there after 40k miles of braking. Air driven needle chisel superb for removing flaky rust.

If the starter has the solenoid built in and is wired directly from the battery then 1.5 mm wire would be fine for all the rest of it (what little there is in a mower!).

BTW my calipers were both R/H thread!

In the caliper bore there is a mechanism that is held in by a circlip. It's relatively easy to get out but quite awkward to get back in! It is doable with patience though. The handbrake acts on this to push the whole mechanism up the the bore. The large spring pulls this mechanism back down the bore. This mechanism has a threaded bolt upon which you will find the piston. The hydraulic pressure is more than enough to push the piston up the bore while turning on the thread to act on the disc. As the pressure drops the mechanism relaxes just enough to drop the pressure off the pad. On a good caliper it is relatively easy to wind the piston back in and out, if you can't then maybe there is some corrosion? Get an overhaul kit from Biggred and replace the inner and outer seals and clean both bore and piston and all should be well. If the handbrake action is free and easy with no leak at the handbrake pivot seal then you don't need to take that inner mechanism out. One of my handbrake mechanisms was very stiff, once I had the piston out I worked it back an forth several times and it freed off. The other one leaked from the pivot seal and had to be completely stripped.

Why not drive it there?

I put my 2B plus through IVA just over 2 years ago and have loads of build pictures. Please feel free to ask about any area of the build. My car passed at the first attempt and only a slight mod on the day at the advice of the testor. The rules are quite easy to follow once you have ploughed through the manual several hundred times!

Did you completely disassemble the caliper including the handbrake mechanism (those awkward circlips included) ? If so then your alignment of the cam of the handbrake pin could be wrong. If you have to disasemble again make sure that the screw onto which the piston sits moves in and out when you move the handbrake lever.

I don't know your specifc caliper but surely even if the pads were worn they would stop the caliper itself from rubbing on the disc or do you mean the fixed caliper bracket on which the caliper floats???

Very sorry for your loss! You have our family's sympathy. My garden is the burial ground to 7 cats and we are now onto our second pair of Labradors. I had to carry one of the last pair half a mile home when his back legs finally gave up! As well as our own dogs having to be put down when the time was right I have also had to help the neighbour with one of her dogs on its final trip to the vets! I hate the vets!

Blimey! I know the bits add up but even with the different rear axle, electronic speedo, new dash panel with carbon wrap and a few other bits (mainly nuts and bolts, around £200 worth) my 2b plus came in under £6.5 k including IVA! Okay I never had to buy a tool as I was well stocked but what are you guys buying extra to the kits or are the kits not so inclusive of all the bits and pieces nowadays?

Dont see it here at work (Chrome) or on my PC at home (Chrome) or my iPad?

I've just read an article on turbulent flow. One way to do it is to ensure that any ducting used increases in cross section form in to out. So ducting the air flow from the nose cone ensuring that the cross section increases before it hits the radiator should work. As the nose cone does that any way its just a case of ensurirng there is no leak past the radiator. Sounds simple ....ish!?

I have just realised that in my 2B I had to cant the radiator back slightly to get it to fit! Clearly I instinctivly knew the correct postion for it, god I'm clever!

Ah ha! So what you need then is lots of turbulent air. So I think the angle of attack may help a bit (as per your suggestion) but what is more important would getting the air turbulant before it hits the radiator. Any thoughts on how that could be acheived?

As I am quite sad............no one going to disagree...... no? Okay, as I wandered out to my car in the car park last night I looked at loads of cars and almost without exception the front grills direct the airflow directly onto the radiator and are not angled by more than a few degrees. I am also confused by the assertion that the air hitting at an acute angle will extract more heat than airflow at 90 degrees to the fins? No matter how I look at it the more air you have flowing over the fins the better. Any form of turbulance slows the air down (that is fundamental aerodynamics!) and air hitting an acute angle will be more turbulant than if it is passing straight through the core. Having said all that I am still convinced that any over heating issues will be down to more fundamental issues like a small coolant volume (radiator too small), too small a fan, blocked water pathways, failing water pump, lack of egress of air from the engine bay.