IanS

As we use old cars as our doners I believe that all alternators need the indicator light to help them get charging so there will be some connection.

Quick sketch to show only the minimum wireing

My idea is that the alternator indicator can be used as an indication of engine running. It lights with engine stopped and goes off with engine running. So you probably will need a relay to do this. I would connect one end of the relay coil to a switched live and the other end to a normally open push button. I would connect the other end of the push button to the alternator end of the ignition light. With the engine stopped this will be near 0 volts and current will flow through the relay coil. With the engine running this will be 12+ volts and no current wil flow through the coil. The normally open relay contacts can then be connected to a switched live and the starter. I hope that this helps

I should add that ECU controls hot idle by retarding ignition timing, adjusting the throttle body stop can confuse the ECU.

There is a throttle stop screw on the throttle body that is preset for hot idle. Do not adjust without a very very good reason.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163058114655?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338767030&toolid=10029&customid=eb%3Ag%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A163058114655%3BEAIaIQobChMI5M7Z2-Le8gIVErrtCh23pgkVEAQYAiABEgLYS_D_BwE&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1TVc_0P-_SCyOoDTfyi-j3g48&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5M7Z2-Le8gIVErrtCh23pgkVEAQYAiABEgLYS_D_BwE Gives you an idea of what to look for, they are robust but do need cleaning every so often, a new one should be a very last resort.

Idle Air Control valve is sticking. It is an electricaly controled valve that gives bypass air round the throttle body. (efectivly it changes the throttle stop by allowing more air post the butterfly valve, the ECU takes care of the petrol) It is held on by 2 screws and has a single electrical connector. Remove the 2 screws and spray carb cleaner into the body, refit and if I am correct the idle will be back. Too much carb cleaner is better than not enough, 20 second squirt should do.

From the picture it looks like a crack in the header tank plastic casting. Grind a V part way through. Clean, Clean, Clean. Dry, Dry, Dry. Fill with PU adhesive sealant, e.g https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/pu18-black-flexible-polyurethane-adhesive-sealant Allow to set. Top up coolant and drive. Good luck.

CO2 should be a lot higher as the engine is burning hydrocarbon fuel ( petrol ) to CO2 and water. I think that you mean CO ( carbon monoxide ) which for carbed cars is either 3.5% or 4.5% depending on age. So even a fail here. Any Zero will probably new enough to not take advantage of visual smoke test only exemption for amature build vehicals. Is the temperature sender reading correctly as if the ECU thinks that the engine is cold it could be deliberatly over fueling.

Vacuum guage is only a help with driving economically. At constant speed (obaing the speed limits) the throttle will be mostly closed restricting airflow to limit power this creats a vacuum in the inlet manifold. Pedal to the metal (I presume that give it some beans is the same) and the throttle is opened so there is no restriction in the airflow and more power as more air and petrol goes through the engine and there is no vacuum is the inlet manifold so your reading is normal. The DGV 32/36 has both a power valve and an accelerator pump that work in combination to overcome the lag in petrol flow that naturally happens in a carb when the throttle is suddenly opened. You can check the accelerator pump operation by removing the air filter and looking into the inlet of the carb when the accelerator is pressed, you should see a squirt of petrol into the choke of the carb.

My dipstick also has that sensor. As far as I can tell it is a small heater and a bimetalic switch. The oil keeps it cool, no oil and the switch opens and a light goes on in the dash. I never wired it into my home made loom but still use the dipstick which goes almost vertically into the sump near the starter.

At least with a metal line you are not going to have problems with E5 E10 E20 ..... E100 petrol eating it.

13.6 is good, higher risks overchargeing reduceing battery life.

One thing to understand is that most alternators do not give a constant voltage out. At initial startup when cold they have a higher voltage to get the starting charge back into the battery. Depending on pully sizes it might not be roataing fast enough to charge at tickover when hot. Back in the days when cars were fitted with dynamos it was normal for no charge at tickover. Dynamos have a longer shaft than alternators due to the presence of the comutator. This means that for a given electrical output you can spin an alternator faster by fitting a smaller pully.

From what you say I understand that you are not the builder. Before you took the car off the road how did it run? My car has a nearly standard 2l pinto and can easily exceed uk speed limits, so something is wrong. I doubt that rolling road is the first option. New plugs got you through MOT so first thoughts are fueling and dirt/rust in the carb. Mot only tests engine under no load. Try new petrol to see if it improves things. Replace fuel filter if fitted. Then it is strip down and clean carb and check that float chamber level is correct and clear any deposits in the carb. Good luck

The way I look at it is that electrics and fuel come together naturally at the fuel tank in the fuel level sender and fuel outlet (and return if fitted) as well as the intank electric fuel pump on most modern cars. Also they come together at the injectors on fuel injected engines. So I cannot see why they cannot cross at other locations provided that they are properly supported.

You could try a bleed resistor from the tach input to earth. I would try 1K 0.25W.

A very nice place, I envy you. But keep up expanding.

Location:Near Salisbury Wiltshire Cornwall is expanding, it is undercover annexation, soon Cornwall will take over the whole of UK.

I have sent a message. Ian

Starter connects back through its mounting bolts. I saw the words powder coat and first thought is that the bolts are not connecting in any real way. Run a tap down the threaded holes to remove powder coat in the threads.

Realy does sound like pos earth alternator. not that I know of any, in the 1960s some cars were positive earth for early germanium transistor radios but I think that they were all dynamo. When you read alternator volts what polarity do you get? do you get the same volts on ACvolts as DCvolts? It is a new alternator so most probably duff.

Does this change when the engine/gearbox is cold? You do not say if there are any new noises. 2 first thoughts, First engine to gearbox mounting (bell housing) bolts loose either at the engine end or the gearbox end, look for gaps. second the clutch is not releasing, could be partially melted clutch cable.

toriitom from your profile photo I would place you nearer to Kyoto than Belfast. I have fond recollection’s of Kyoto.

RH had the same windscreens on all the 7 type cars so the front should fit. The width was set by the sierra rear axle and so should fit. You just have 2 make up 1 or 2 bows to support the hood plus mounting brackets. These were just bent 25mm steel tube, 2 were supplied but most builders did like me and used the roll bar as the rear one so one to bend. Then there are the side screens