IanS

Is the enrichment (accelerator) pump working? Look down the carb barrels and when the throttle is opened you should see a squirt of petrol into both chokes.

Could it actually be something like your propshaft being out of balance? Yes the sierra has rubber dampers in the gear lever but these were noise limiters rather than vibration dampers so I suspect that something is well out of ballance.

Picture actually says that it is a SubK. 2B chasies with Exmo front suspension. No paperwork whatsoever? Not even a V5? Without reciepts or V5 it will be tricky to get registered as you have to prove that it is not stolen.

It is not robin hoods that are the problem. The problem is unregistered cars of any type, there are a lot of abandomed kit builds (of all makes) out there for many reasons, it is just that robin hood produced more kits per year (approx 600 per year) than almost all other manufactures combined from mid 90s for the next 15 years. So there are more uncompleted robin hoods out there than most other single make. There are probably a higher percentage of the high priced multistage payement kits unfinished out there. Chin up 2Bs were designed to pass IVA. SVA came allong when government realised that this was a profit center and upped prices to suit, little else changed so properly put together it will pass.

All 205 blocks are 2l all 20 blocks are 2l all 18 blocks are 1.8L all 16 blocks are 1.6l all 13 blocks are 1.3l (very rare)

epic revival of a post from 19 years ago

Those parts are pure sierra. Ebay / motor factors.

https://www.burtonpower.com/water-pump-ford-pinto-sohc-models-with-viscous-fan-qcp2525.html

You can but try for the water pump at a motor factors. Burton power stock just about everything for a pinto but are not the cheapest, and yes they do sell spares. https://www.burtonpower.com/

Pinto like thicker oil 20/50 works better than more modern thinner oils. Air filter is a case of what you have fitted as it will not be what ford fitted. As for oil filter and spark plugs go to your local motor factors and tell them that it is for a 1985 ford sierra. I hope that this helps

Sounds more like choke to me. But the other carb problem could be sticking needle valve in the float chamber allowing the fuel level to get too high.

32/36 refere to the choke diamters. The primary is 32mm for good MPG at part throttle The secondary is 36mm for when you unleash the horses. I have this carb on a 2l pinto and recently got 38MPG on a 220 mile round trip on mainly secondary roads.

Ford venturi carb was not very good and does not age well. Replace with dgav off a 2l pinto, someone is bound to have one kicking arround after an upgrade.

Mechanical one is simple and normally reliable. I still use a mechanical one.

Reason I ask is that I had a mechanical pump do what you describe. Pumped OK cold and not very well when hot. New pump was an easy fix but it had swarf in it and cleaning this out of the system was a longish job.

What fuel pump are you useing?

The air will only go into the top tank of the radiator reliably if the top tank is a bit higher than the thermostat.

That is not a bypass as such it was an air bleed to the header tank in a sierra. It did allow some flow via the header tank to allow the thermostat to work from cold. Most people drill a 3mm hole in the flange of the thermostat to achieve the same effect.

Relavent IVA document https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/1065789/individual-vehicle-approval-inspection-manual-passenger-vehicles.pdf Starting at page 41 Relavent MOT testers manual. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/676700/in-service-exhaust-emission-standards-for-road-vehicles-19th-edition.pdf Starting at page 12. There used to be an exemption for amater built cars but I cannot find it and think that it went away with between SVA and IVA

If your wireing is to the manual. Then one contact of the switch FEED TO SWITCH -BROWN the other contact MAIN MEAM FEED BLUE/WHITE You could use scotch lock connectors to break into the loom https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scotch-Connectors-Splice-Terminals-Electrical/dp/B007ZDM4R2/ref=asc_df_B007ZDM4R2/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=256110712503&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1724852948457373441&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007200&hvtargid=pla-783518692237&psc=1 They are sold by any motorfactor. They work OK but do not like getting damp/wet.

Come to think of it the Ka did a diagonal split. One front and the opposite rear on each circuit which would explain 4 ports on the master cylinder. It is up to you if you do this rather than the more traditional front / rear split.

Yes 2 front for front brakes, length does not matter as whilst braking there is little fluid flow so presures the same at all ports. The singleton goes to rear brakes. This way a fault leaves you with either both front brakes or (worse) with both rear brakes.

I have 20.6 bore from a 2.0 pinto 83 sierra.

If they are SU carbs do not forget oil in the dashpots. Cutting out is a symptom of lack of oil.

If the member does not join the forum the law prevents you contacting them. Blame the GDPR (General Data Protection Regulations) law. its a bummer for help each other clubs