Jez Morton

Quick update, the cars now wearing Rainsport 3's and I've got to say they are big improvement over the old yokos. They feel softer on the road in a good way the rubber feels more compliant like its doing something. Handling feels good and grip is good, we'll have to wait and see what they're like in the wet.

176 cheers Bob

Just got my copy, got to admit that's a sweet looking car in the foreground of the cover photo.☺

Might just join you, can be there for around 7:30.

When shortened mine I cut a smooth section out of a bolt drilled through it and counter sunk one end, I slid this on and welded the counter sunk end to fix. The thinking behind counter sinking was it would need less heat to weld and stop the cable getting brittle, 10 years on still good.

And watch out for tbat electric fence!!

Be a nice warm up for the Wales trip the week after.

Is not the air temperature that's the issue its the expected performance of the product in question, its says 50% mix for winter driving and it just doesn't perform.

I'm in number 176.

Bit annoyed that even though I always keep the screenwash mix at least 50% through the winter its frozen solid. Checked a container that the misses bought from the supermarket, its concentrated screenwash and says it works to minus4 undiluted? So I'm guessing at 50% its practically useless for winter use? I will be looking closer at the specs in future its a nightmare driving at the minute takes about 2 miles for the screen to be a white smear of road salt.

Have good clean around the throttle butterfly with carb cleaner type stuff I usually find this stops mine hunting. If the throttle doesn't close properly the idle control can't keep up. To check the throttle position sensor you really need to use an oscilloscope as multi-meters tend to average the voltage or resistance, so you wont see an issue.

176 cheers

I just boxed in the gap with some stainless, used a bit of mastic at the join to outside panel to stop any movement. For the crush issue show them a photo of the 4mm thick tube in the shock mount, your not crushing that.

I brought an air rivetter from Lidl that was posted on the foruma while ago, tried it on a 5mm stainless rivet and it pulled it up like it was toffee. I think it was around £25, can't vouch for its durability though not used it much.

Differing sizes? Have you changed the Arrays, I assume bigger rears to gear down the V8?

Thats a good price where did you buy them from?

Its come to that time where the tyres need replacing. I've had Yokohama A539 on the car from new they lasted 10 years and 15000 miles, I could get more out of them but I think their getting too old now. Dry grip was always excellent but wet grip was always bit iffy. So its the usual questions, any recommendations for tyres and suppliers. Looking on line Toyos look like a good buy but I've heard mixed reviews. I'd like tyres that would give a bit more confidence when it gets wet, but I can't be spending a fortune on them either. Cheers Jez

I'll be there and possibly with my lad Owen.

Tyres for the kit but I cant decide which ones?

Ok, if its any help the 2B nose is about 25" across the rear.

How wide is it, might be same as 2B?

GBSC, Kitspares, same bushes as zero.

Go yellow the blue makes you invisible in a convoy? Ask RichyB about wrapping, I've tried and the concensus is pay someone to do it. I think the nose is the same as a 2B but get confirmation, if it is GBSC can make you one.

Like the infills to rear arches, I'd go for squared off rear arches to match front.

I lowered my arches by deceasing the bottom angle of the stainless back to the body. Be careful though the wings are different sizes. If you look at the tabs that hold them on you can reform the end bend of the stainless one tab further up at the back and two at the front then refit the wing moving it down so the new lowest tabs fit back to the bottom hole. You will need to redrill lots of holes and fit filler panels but you should get somewhere between 30 to 40mm lower without modifying the GRP arch.