Shandylegs

Having previously put a couple of cars through the SVA test a few years ago, I had my first introduction to the IVA on Wednesday. The car had failed with the previous owner early in 2010 and although way out of date for the 6 month retest I used the previous fail sheet as a guide to what needed rectifying to obtain a pass. it failed again but It's pleasing to know that other than one point, they fails were not for same items as last time. Noise - This is the one point that the car failed on, on both tests. The old style GBS can is rubbish, many cars have failed with it in the past and I'd tried to fudge it by using a decibel killer fitted into the exhaust just before the silencer. Although it did sound quieter the ear, the DB meter said a resounding no at 106db! Fuel pipe rubbing slightly on hand brake cable when hand brake applied Brake pipe possibly too close to exhaust manifold in the engine bay VIN not the correct fomat Aero screen too high Mushroom inserts need a self tapper adding Brake fluid switch inoperative Steering rack gather are catching the suspension mounts on full lock Tester couldn't read the speedo All in all, I'm fairly pleased with the result. Tester - top man - was thorough as you would expect, but really fair and took the time to talk through each fail point and what I could/would need do to rectify the problems. So far my thoughts are as follows but would appreciate your views or advice: No option but to replace the silencer (Anyone have anything lying around or a vist to Mr Keenan or Wunoff will be required) Easy fix - Piece of rubber East fix - Tester said he wopuld be happy with an ali heat shield covering the brake pipe Easy fix - Format for this has changed since the car was initially built, presumably GBS or Ebay will have something suitable Easy fix - It's only a piece of perspex so out with the saw! Easy fix - Drill and screw or nut & bolt so there is no way the insert can come out Easy fix - Buy new switch for the top of the master cylinder (Anyone have one lying around?) To be fair i didn't notice this. Having read up other people have had this problem and have used spacers to mount the rack a little higher (Anyone have any pics?) Difficult one this. I'd raised the steering column as I'm tall and could just see the speedo with the mountney wheel fitted (with protective pad). I've thrown my Sierra wheel away as there is no way I could drive the car with it fitted - This was before I decided to raise the column. (Does anyone have a Sierra wheel i could try to see if it would now fit and then borrow / purchase for the retest?) Thanks........

- Is the fog light at 90 degress to road? - Edges to headlamp mount don't appear to be covered - The the cente mirror e-marked (It looks like a raceleda type which aren't and are known to fail on projections?)

I've used Beverley a couple of times before when putting a couple of cars through the SVA and had a decent time - testers are firm (Quite obviously they don't want unsafe cars on the the road), but fair. Good to know things haven't changed as I also have mine booked in towards the end of the month!

Marcus - Powder coated rocker cover, I think you're catching the VW bufty disease. I have one sat in my garage doing nothing. Drop me a PM when/if you want to collect. Thanks....

Just doing the final prep on my Zero with the intention of applying for an IVA at one of the local stations I have used in the past (Beverley). The car is a very early Zero and was put in for and failed it's IVA in Southampton in 2009. I purchased the car in 2011, brought it back to Yorkshire and have been slowly working through the list of failiures since. Reading through Richard Ls recent posts and despite the fact the test fail was 4 years ago, it now looks like I will have to go back to Southampton for another test (And subsequent retests if it fails again). Can anyone confirm this is definately the case as a 460 mile round trip isn't something I'd be looking forward to! Thanks........

Marcus Worsborough should have something suitable. Failing that, I probably have one from an old set somewhere. One last thought what are you using to supply and regalate the fuel as the carbs as they don't like loads of pressure (Can lead to the problem you're having). Thanks.....

Tim - Don't know if you're looking for another. Seems to be a resonable price, but collection may be a sticking point (Hampshire). http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=FSW&action=display&thread=148562

There are three next to each other in Carlton, near Barnsley. Try S71 3HJ in google maps. Thanks.....

I've used most of the rolling roads in my area of the past 20 years and only ever found a couple of them really willing to put the work in to get the most out of your engine for a reasonable outlay. But to be fair to them it can take time to fully set-up a car (Ignition and Cam timing, adjusting the fuelling, not to mention fixing items that are wrong or broken) and many people don't want to pay a garage for a few hours work. Did they go through all the simple checks like that the carbs were balanced and idle mixture was set. I'm also slightly surprised that they didn't swing the vernier a couple of degrees either way to see if the cam timing was having an effect (Assuming a vernier is fitted?) - but again it comes back down to time = money. Finally don't worry too much about power figures as it's impossible to compare figures obtained from one rolling road to the next, or even the same rolling road with a different operator as there are just too many different paramenters to take into account.

Definitely interested in the bonnet. When you say it has holes for holes for a pinto, has it been cut for an inlet and exhaust (Where) and are there holes for bonnet catches etc? A couple of pics would be appreciated. Thanks....

Jess - How does the bonnet scoop attach. Do you hvae a picture?

Getting there.

In progress

Starting point - not my work!

I've been a memeber of this site longer than most posting at the moment and can sit quite hapily on both sides of the fence (I've joined some years and not others). While everyone else is venting can I throw a couple in a couple of points: Membership running Jan to December Firstly, I fully understand the reasons for doing this. But from a business sense it really is stupid. New members to a club tend to join when they are looking to buy, or have just bought, a product - How many people by Kit Cars in Decemeber? Just ask yourself if you would join a club in June for the first time knowing those who joined in January had, in effect, paid half price? Anyone should be able to join at any point and expect the same 12 month's membership. Benefits of joining the club As I see it there are four main parts to the club; the magazine, internet, local meets and show meets (I would also include the track days but it doesn't seem as if club membership is now a pre-requisite for the bi annual jaunt to Barkston Heath?) Although I enjoy reading the magazine when it arrives, I rarely goto local or show meets. These on their own aren't enough to force me into paying a fee, so that just leaves the internet site. Internet Site I don't have the answer to this one! Whilst ever the site is open access there is no compelling reason for me to join. The LCB 'For sale section' fee was clever, but doesn't work here as it doesn't get the same amount of traffic (And the LCB is only a one off fee of £5, not yearly). But on the other side of the coin, if the site was closed to non members it would be a closed shop - never good. Is there a halfway house option where non paying memebrs don't get full access. This could be by restricting the amount of posts per month or restricting more heavily the area's that can be accessed, no signatures etc (While we are talking about signatures, I don't know of any other club who would let anyone, member or not, have signatures with a links to alternative clubs - Put politely it's like Microsoft putting a flyer inside a copy of Windows advertising Apple products!) I don't know if it's still the case, but doesn't Matt own the site and is paid a 'retainer' for hosting and maintenance? If so, doesn't any decision on the internet site actually sit with him and not the club? Anyway that's 30 minutes of my time wasted!

Nick - I'll take the vice please. i'll send you a PM

I have to move my Zero to a unit. I usualy hire a trailer but the local company no longer do half day hire and I'm a little loathe to spend £55+VAT for moving something six miles! Is there anyone in or around South Yorkshire with access to a trailer that wants to earn a few quid by either moving, or loaning me a trailer? The car is currently located close to Barnsley centre. Cheers......

Sorry, I re-read through the threads and found that had been covered.

If you are still running a single carb why are you using a catch tank when you could still be using the inlet to provide a vaccum to pull all the gasses out of the crankcase? - Fist thing to check is that your cam cover has a deflection plate below the filler, some do, some don't (As there is now no vaccum being created by the inlet, there is alot of oil splashing around the head looking for a way to get out). If there isn't, fit one. - At the same time fit the crankcase breather properly. Remove everything Ford fitted, the Burton elbow does fit directly into the block - Vent everything through to the catch tank but make sure the catch tank has enough breathing to the atmophere (You wouldn't beleive the amount of times I've seen masssive bore hosing used from the crankcase and cam cover, only to see a little K&N filter fitted to the catch tank - these only have something like an 8mm internal bore!) There are lots of other things you can do but this starts costing loads of money to sort properly. Do a search on here or google as there is lots of info on this. Thanks............

Hi Mower man Is your head damaged or are you just looking to upgrade? I have a decent standard head (Not injection) with what was sold to me as having had a recent performance cam kit fitted. No reason to doubt this as the followers and cam look to be in really good condition. Not looking for a fortune for it as it's just sat with the bottom end in the back of my garage. Thanks Duncan

Steve - I'm sure I have a cup lying around. If required drop me a message.

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As you will probably already be aware body condition is everything when purchasing one of these. I've got to say, by the look of things you got a bit of a bargain there. I'm about halfway through converting mine to run a k-series engine (In storage until I get round to completing the Zero!)

Phil Have a check of the bolt at the top of the rear shock. When tightened they are very close to the frame. Mine was just touching and gave a simlar clunk when the suspension was pressed down - simply cured by spacing with a slightly thicker washer (Although it did take some finding!)