Bob Tucker

My 1993 Mondeo latched the fog light off when you turned off the headlights. That makes more sense than leaving the fog lights activated. But hey, this is the DVLA we're talking about!

Theres a big difference between "may" and "must"......personally I'd go with the IVA manual. All the production cars ive driven can only turn on the fog light when the main or dip are on. As soon as you turn them off the fog light goes out too.

Its a few years (decades!) ago that I did mine. I'll take a look & maybe a photo in the next few days.

Its one of these. you will need to check the inner bearing dimensions match your steering column. https://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/ford-sierra-steering-column-bearing-kit.html

Make sure theres nothing under the carpet. I had to fit 3/4 ply under mine to suit my dainty size 7s otherwise I was braking with my toes. It may also be feasible to fit a lowered floor section where your heels rest.? You can raise the steering column....but...it may interfere with the exhaust. Also the bearing in the footwell firewall can be replaced with a far better actual bearing that makes moving the column easier. Try a search at the top of the page. I cant find the link. The column needs to be braced vertically and left to right. Do not brace it forward/backwards, its designed to collapse in an accident. Moving the throttle pedal is pretty easy, but the brake pedal is more difficult. It may be possible to cut it and reweld it, but make sure its well reinforced.

If its the chassis itself, its almost scaffold pole. It wont rust through in the lifetimes of the next 4 generations. Just use wet& dry or a fine sanding disk or wheel on a drill and go at it. Then anti rust primer, undercoat then topcoat. Water based will be best as it wont react with whatever paint was used directly on the chassis. If its the bodywork, its not structural, so definitely worth a bit of work, same as above.

It should be stamped on the back of the wheel if its an alloy. Sierra is 108 PCD. It will likely have either the Cortina solid back axle, or the Sierra independent setup.

I am. About a mile away from the safe zone, with a camera between me and the end of the Ulez zone. I'm looking at several ways round it, but not for public discussion! I'll be sorning the car at the end of september anyway. Then I'm resorting to the power of prayer....that Khan doesnt get re-elected, and that one of the candidates who vowed to cancel it on day one if they get elected, actually gets in. If not, I'll probably just bring forward my plans to move down nearer 2 of my 3 kids, one in Devon one in Cornwall.

Hi Neil, sorry ,I got roped into being head chef at a family BBQ. It looks like I missed a good one.

A magnet down the hole restricts the area you are "fishing" in the sump. Assuming there is no oil in the sump, remove the drain plug and systematically move a telescopic magnet from side to side and backwards and forwards to cover much more area., but It will still leave some of the sump uncovered.

I understood that the mechanical pump provides the 1 way valve. Obviously its not working. Have a look at rebuilding it (ifthats possible) or replacing it with another one. I have used CBS for many parts in the past. For a standard engine, the road version will provide ample flow and pressure. You may also need a regulator depending what carb you are running. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/search?q=fuel+pump

Sorry no pics, but Ive just installed a new Kitspares rad. in my 2B which has a sliding pillar chassis (ie a big X in front of the rad.) and it fits very neatly with my VX redtop engine. Maybe post some pics of yours showing what you dont like about the fit?

Check that the bolts holding the belt pulleys are all tight. Get a long screwdriver with a big head. Place the pointy end against various parts of the engine, then put the handle to your ear. Start with the water pump, they do make a fair bit of noise if knackered. Avoid any and all spinning parts! This is best done in the front drive when the neighbours are all out washing their cars! You will hear the sound easily. Dont be worried about whirring, tinking and other assorted noises. They are all normal, just magnified by the screwdriver.

Hi Neil, it looks like a brilliant trip, and a very readable blog. Its set me up for our trip to the loire valley in 2 weeks. Cheers Bob

Hi John, Good to hear from you! These cars do seem addictive. Youre not the first to sell one, then look to buy another. Thats why Ive doggedly hung onto mine. ULEZ or not, I'm hanging on to it. By way of a swansong, were off to the Loire valley in it in 2 weeks, then at he beginning of August Ive booked a trackday at Brands for my second grandson (22 yrs old!). Ive told him he can push it as hard as he likes. If it blows on a track, thats way better than scrapping it. Cheers, Bob

Is that a 4 wheel bond bug? I dont recall ever seeing one of those.

Ive also registered.

Its an absoluter PI55ER isnt it? I'm in the same boat, but I'm waiting to see if its delayed before I get rid of the car. Me & my son put heart and soul into building it, and it will be devastating to have to part with it. But I'm also looking at "legal loopholes," given I only live about 1.5 miles inside the M25....

All the right numbers, but not necessarily in the right order....

All the identification letters are capitals, so as its not a D, I'd say it has to be a P so 2.0 unleaded.

https://rimmerbros.com/ItemFiles/Manuals/Kent Cams Fitting and Timing Instructions.pdf

Bars on the brain eh Keith?

Looks and sounds like a great trip, Neil. I cant wait to set off for France in early July, but I am dreading ULEZ expansion as mine doesn't comply.

I expect its just a typo, but its 2 - 3 PSI not bar. Youll blow your carbs apart at 45 PSI!.

This should help... https://nw.rhocar.org/