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Everything posted by brumster

  1. Good point - swapping a chassis like-for-like is not so much a problem so the chassis would be useful to an existing owner who maybe had a catastrophic failure and needed to fix it, but... the reality, to me, would be wondering if anyone is really that much in love with their Exmo that they'd rebuild it like-for-like rather than just doing what I did and swap it into a newer chassis like the Zero or 2B. Sparepart's also right, there are a few parts on the Exmo that people will definitely be interested in for maintaining their current model... front dampers/inserts being a common one that's hard to get hold of, screen supports rust, bracketry and suspension mounting plates, etc. What Sierra is it? Key bits that will shift off it IMHO are : - Front & Rear hub assemblies (inc brakes) - Rear diff & shafts - Steering column, stalks, plastic cowling - Engine (depending on type) - Gearbox The rest you can probably weigh in, unless there is some person out there looking for a Sierra to fix their aging Sierra
  2. I'm kind of with Rich on this one, and if you'll excuse me being brutally honest... I only say this as an ex-Exmo owner... but I can't see the Exmo being a very desirable project these days. The Sierra will probably shift easy. I'd put the chassis/kit up on an auction site and just see what it goes for, otherwise just go and weigh it in at the local scrappy. You might get some interest in the Exmo parts as spares on here - wings will probably sell to an existing owner for example.
  3. I'll have that as a spare, chap, please
  4. I've got a few litres in a jerry can so I'm all good, hoping the weather holds out for the last run out of the year in the car before I skip 6 months of road tax and hole it up for the winter . Forecast looks safe but think I'll be wrapping up warm!
  5. mitch, if you want to do a remote desktop style thing where we meet on google hangouts/meet I can show you. PM me if you like. edit: one thing you'll need to know is where you're applying this change. Which load sites. Did he just adjust fuelling at one cell (unlikely), one or a few speed sites (most likely, did he do 2000-3000 rpm maybe), or everything. Upping fuel 3 clicks is no problem but it's where you want to do it. If it's just for emissions at MOT then I have a good idea
  6. Cool. Damp air shouldn't be a problem in this country
  7. Interesting. Does it settle with a brush finish or does it look smooth once dried (assuming it can't be sprayed on?)
  8. Central Wheel in Coleshill do very good, reputable powder coating. I've seen their work and it's very good (it's where I'm going for my suspension arms to be redone this winter)... another option for you, maybe a bit closer. Last time I spoke to them, start of summer, they were busy so it was a bit of a lead time (4 weeks) https://www.central-wheel.co.uk/services.html
  9. I mean if, for some reason, you absolutely had to do this over just a deposit, I would at least get a signed receipt with suitable wording explaining what had been paid for, and maybe even use a mobile phone to video the transaction between yourself and the seller, just for safety. But really - why would anyone not take a deposit, just to secure the car and show your intention to buy it was genuine, and then release the car on final payment at a later date?
  10. Echo what sparepart says. I studied Physics to A-Level but had always had an interest in all things electrical, particularly circuitry, right back to a child. About 8 years ago I set about with the daunting idea of creating my own electronics product, watched lots of EVBlog on Youtube, read lots of guides and forum posts from knowledgeable people in their field and managed to design and get fabricated my very own piece of electronics, put it through CE/FCC approval and everything - but it took a good 3 years of my life away from me! So all I'm trying to say is, anything is possible if you have the willing and the commitment to learn, try, make mistakes, learn from them, try again, etc... thankfully basic car electrics is relatively straightforward, particularly with our cars that don't tend to have much by way of complicated systems (other than maybe the engine management)...
  11. GBS Zero, fully 'wet' (full tank/etc), windscreen/etc at IVA was 560Kg but that is with a Rover K-Series engine rather than the 'traditional' Zetec...
  12. I'll be there one of the days, not entirely sure which one yet but we'll be popping in
  13. Yeah. they're not cheap (but where is these days, in all fairness?!).... popping down in the week during the daytime should be easy enough. Worst case, if you go a weekend and can't get in, there's a great café at Wellesbourne airfield which isn't far away and is a good backup plan
  14. C&M can get busy on the weekends particularly if the weather is good. At the moment the process is tickets needed for weekends and monday/wed/fri evening slots but this has changed over the years given COVID/etc so, best thing for me to do is say, check their website : https://caffeineandmachine.com/yard/ Tickets are for a car, not per person. You do get some interesting stuff there, for sure.
  15. brumster

    tune up

    Have you tried Emerald at Watton? Not sure but suspect they'd do it, even if it's not on their management, they do rolling road tuning.....?
  16. I 3D printed some covers; worked a treat, no issues at IVA
  17. The cell that measures hydrocarbons in it shows a failure code and when Mr.Snap-On engineer was here to maintain it, he informed it was about a grand to replace the cell. Considering I got the analyser from a friend who ran a local garage for a few hundred quid just to be able to map cars a bit more accurately in terms of MOT compliance (exactly as you are finding), and the fact that I've done that about 4 times in the several years of ownership of it, let's be honest.... it's not worth it....
  18. Fingers crossed for you I had a go at fixing my gas analyser last night but no joy... looks like it's going on eBay for spares or repair!
  19. Worth pulling the return line off and, after ensuring it's FULLY DRAINED AND CLEAR OF ANY PETROL ;), wipe it nice and clean and give it a bit of a blow (ooer missus) just to ensure it's not obviously blocked....?
  20. Aha, stumble across this thread - puts the emissions saga into context! As richy says, if your fuel pressure is way too high (which it sounds like) that would explain it running rich and failing the emissions test. I would check your regulator - there must be one somewhere, you can't run an injection system without one!
  21. Sounds like the mapping just needs setting up, tweaking for the idle, possibly the throttle bodies need some tweaking/balancing... assuming everything is in good condition, gaskets are sealing, plugs are good, fuel pressure, injectors, etc. Certainly just "plugging a lambda in" and expecting it to fix emissions is not how it works, I'm sorry to say not on aftermarket engine management anyway, assuming you're on Emerald for example (which I think is what GBS supplies?) edit: I believe some of the GBS exhausts do include a cat at the front of the silencer?
  22. Agreed. But certainly at the idle test, the lambda is rarely in closed loop mode as I was always lead to believe that the mixture and combustion at idle is too irregular to get reliable readings off a wide-band lambda quick enough to adjust. Obviously if we're talking the 2500-3000rpm test here, that's different. Either way, depending on the management system, there is typically a configuration setting that will only allow the adaptive fueling to correct by a maximum amount of 5% (for example) so if they fueling is way off, it won't adjust enough to get where you need it to be. You can up the maximum allowed adjustment or just do a number of sessions of merging in the corrections to the base map and then going out and letting it learn again. Personally, when I had issues with the MOT emissions test, I just sat and manually tweaked the fueling while watching the gas analyser on 'free measurement' mode. I'd offer to help but unfortunately my gas analyser has a failed cell in it which is £1k to fix, so I'm like, *bleep* that something to stick on eBay when i can get round to it!! EDIT: Does a mod want to move this into a more appropriate section I get the mistake the OP made thinking "test" meant MOT related!
  23. Was it the idle CO or the fast engine speed (~2500rpm normally) CO level that it failed on? Does the car have a catalytic converter fitted, I am assuming yes because you'll have fun making those numbers without one :D. I wonder if the cat is damaged/no longer effective, that's all. Burning any oil? Is the exhaust nice and air-tight, no leaks? What engine management is the car using? When the lambda was added, was the ECU reconfigured to make use of it correctly? Assuming everything has been done right and is working correctly, then someone can tweak the fueling/advance for the load sites you're testing (either idle or fast engine test - you're not clear on which one it failed) to get that number down. You'll need someone with a gas analyser, or do it at the garage doing the test while it's on their analyser.
  24. 1 - the best way to answer this is to just ring one up and ask them. If you're on about one of these kit cars where you basically drop a new body (or major body parts) onto a BMW Z3/etc then I suspect they'll happily quote you, yes, it's business after all. 2 - best for who? I'm not getting why you're asking - are you looking to make this body kit yourself? If so, wow, you're taking on some job there and if you're having to ask what the best material is, then I'm going to hazard a guess you're not trained in panel beating or laying up of GRP, in which case.... you might want to consider what you're taking on here !? 3- As someone who did most of his student life with a GTM Rossa (from 2nd year onwards), it would be awkward of me to say "No" but, errm... let's be honest, they might not be the most practical of vehicles... but I made it work and if you're determined enough and willing to understand the compromises, then sure, why not! 4- Depends on the car. There are lots of different kits, just like any 'normal' car, some with more space than others, etc. you need to think about what you want out of a car, and then assess every kit car you're looking at against those criteria. Think about weather protection, reliability, performance, boot space/interior space and practicality, economy, cost to run, cost to insure, safety, security... if you've got not garage or secure parking, for example, then buying a Lotus 7 replica with no roof for a car you've got to drive into college every day come rain or shine, including the winter.... I'd say yeah, there's a downside ! 5 - Yes, Look up "IVA inspection" or "guide to the iva scheme"... some bedtime reading there! 5 - Quite a fair bit, I suspect!
  25. Dammit, how do you break up quotes in this forum software?! I'll come back later... started with the intention of typing something but it didn't work....
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