Dave R

are they 1/4 turn to remove or just a standard threaded bung ? assume they have an o ring seal ?

kettering northants https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Kettering,+Northamptonshire/@52.396322,-0.730249,7z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x4877742712505a65:0xd6fe0d61db36fcb5

wouldnt be far out by the looks of the top length , if you dont mind cutting the bonnet servo would possibly be a problem

peter bell is the man to get some cambershims from

the torque wrench i used to have with a rifle i had, was an allen key with 2 points for a finger along its long length you nipped the screw up then hung the rifle from the key with your finger in the right loop it gave you 2 preset torques for the different parts

we used to calibrate our own where i used to work..... the bit of kit was calibrated yearly..

kevin if you measure what you need length wise, and lug size, i can assist i have the tool to put the lugs on, and possibly the cable

on mine the bottom harness mounts are bolted to a couple of short bits of angle that is bolted to the floor with a spreader plate underneath... i have a feeling that its also attached to the angle iron underneath that picks up the handbrake cable outer....

nomal solder will be fine, as will decent quality electrical tape, as long as its going inside the loom and under the loom tape i had to split into my look last month to wire a towbar connection, the joints where the lighting splits left/right were done this way, and after 4 years in the garage, and another 9 n the road, they looked like i had done them yesterday you will be fine as long as you can solder

if you ever strip a ford loom you will find soldered joints.... i have never had one fail in 10 years on my car i soldered mine.....

yes i need to know dates for next year,,,,, already considering dates for holidays

so sad i cant make this one.........have a beer or six for me

the difference between a high flow and standard pump, is only a few mm over a rotor thats about 30mm long (guessing as not got one to hand) so it will only be a few more percent flow for given rpm

i believe the high flow and high pressure is just refering to the pump, not the complete system (engine) i think with a gear pump, the pump curve is a fairly straight line on the graph, so flow relates to rpm, and as snapper says the high flow pump is taller, so does give a higher flow into a given system for the same rpm the relief valve is set higher, than standard, yet it will only reach this when given cold oil, and an engine whose bearings are tight enough not to relive more pressure than you are generating for a given rpm basically if you have an engine thats not on its last legs the standard pump should be more than adequate thats how i understand it....

dont sorn it, we still get a lot of nice winter days....

if you have good pressure when hot i wouldnt bother.... if you dont, then it may make it last a little longer...... i have a good secondhand hi flow hi pressure if you can wait a few weeks dave

as the coolant coos i contracts and sucks back from the drinks bottle. thats why the tube needs to go to the bottom

my drinks bottle is fine... assuming you are using the spit it out/suck back when cold cortina method

no servo on mine.... much better feel once you have got over the initial shock

may have one.... got a picture of your damaged one and a diameter\?

failing finding the horn slip rings, the later column switches had a horn press

should be there.... towbar dependant...

but did it do what you wanted richard ??

mine are the ones with a stud at each end... similar to bobs maybe make an adaptor plate ?

sorry its been collected