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As noted already, you'll probably need to raise the reservoirs to get the systems to bleed, however you may still struggle without a pressure bleeder (e.g. EeziBleed) due to the 'up and over' loops in your feed lines to the master cylinders as an air bubble can get stuck at the top of the bend. Ideally you want the pipes to the reservoir to be running up hill all the way from master cylinder to reservoir and that way there is an element of passive bleeding going on all the time and any air in the master cylinder can escape back up the pipe.

Finally got to mates body shop at last. crazy few weeks. re painted all blue panels and repair any issues and paint roll bar. I did fair bit of prep at home before so wasn’t taking too much of mates time up. filled front arched my self but put bit too much fiber glass on them but been a while since done body work so quickly learnt my mistake. Managed to rear tub a lot better. Things I could remove I did as it was only a small drive down road to his unit. I booked this week off work so help out too. Doors dismantled got new Perspex windows to go in and removed all old foam and glue. Mirrors to clean up and new foam too. removed drivers seat and harness so get to roll bar. rear tub has all been dismantled any cracks sanded down and filled. I made sure things all labelled up so easy to re install. exhaust tip removed so get arch better. I’ll posting few more updated this week on the car.

Bit of big catch up on striker. Front brake lines is still an issue, but they work hoping to get all sorted after done body work. hand brake works lovely which is a bonus since that worries me a little as didn’t want to spend £400 on rear disc conversion. car runs great, keep running it up to temp and new coolant doing its job. the clutch stuck a little bit but managed to get it free by myself. So lot happier now lol as typical everything goes wrong just before it’s booked in at the body shop. the aluminium panels in cockpit are mega dirty and haven’t been looked after well. So I have given good clean, tried to get looking better. I’ll give them a good once over again after body work been finished as only get covered in dust etc. taken seats out for deep clean too. Touched up black paint on the cockpit too. Cleaned all crap out from around seats. Given it some a lot of love as been neglected from previous owners, I think. car booked in at body shop so have more of an update later on.

We were there quite early Friday afternoon & it was quite funny how they initially tried to get people to setup between the non-existent lines, then we saw a bit of a face-off when they watched a guy get fully set-up before then tell him he had to move. Then I think they gave up & realised that most of the people arriving were pretty sensible, although hopefully the toilet block will be open before we arrive this time.

We went last year, it was a first come first served and we were told where to pitch. After a couple of hours they must have realised people wanted to set up together so they became more relaxed. It was a lovely man in his little buggy showing you where to go.

After a gap since buying my RH 2B Plus and am working on it to starting using it. I have been looking into some overheating issues which I may have resolved (just done many things including removed the incorrect gasket covering a third of the hole!) - time will tell! However, I have noticed an issue with the electric fan, which is wired via a thermostatic switch in the coolant system (which is earthed) and a manual switch on the dash - both continue to operate after the ignition is off, the fan had stopped coming on automatically(not the source of the overheating!). I bought a new thermostatic switch, but when I took the original (90 degrees) out and tested both, the new one did not work and the original did, so I cleaned it up and put it back in. The fan now turns on correctly with both switches, but is not turning off when the temperature drops significantly. If I disconnect it at the thermostatic switch and reconnect it immediately, the fan does not restart (only tested this with ignition off), but does start and stop with the dash switch (as expected). I also noticed once, that when I switched the dash switch on and off (ignition off), the fan stopped, but has this hasn't happened again, so far, it may have been coincidence. I am now wondering about the wiring or the thermostatic switch. I thoughts, ideas suggestion? If others think that it is still worth changing the thermostatic switch anyone know a supplier of the small thread diameter, so that I don't need to change the housing? Also, mine is the single connector variety, as the new one I bought (double connector) doesn't work, can I check my logic for the double connector type (which seem easier to get) do both connectors have the same function when the the thermostatic switch is on (hot) - I'll describe that as both +, or is one + and the other -?

Cheers guys looking forward to seeing some of the old face's and some of the new let's hope that the weather is kind. I've joined the dark side and will be in the motorhome, see you there. Allan

You can take a gamble on the weather and pre pay. £10 + £1p&p https://nationalkitcarshow.co.uk/tickets/

Make sure you have your £15 ready for the camping as you go through the gates

https://www.google.com/maps/@52.0845182,-2.3098012,181m/data=!3m1!1e3!5m1!1e1?entry=ttu Airial view of last year centered on the camping area last year.

We are waiting for confirmation from the organisers as to which patch we will be on. At the same time they will issue a map that will show the stands and the camping area. They always leave it quite late, I guess so that they avoid late changes. If I haven't heard in a week or so I will give them a nudge. You can almost certainly arrive on the Friday to camp over. See you there

I missed last year due to a previously booked event, Question is can we arrive on Friday afternoon to camp?. If we can is there a particular place that we would all congregate at. Can't seem to find a map of the camping area on the organisers site. Hope that some one can help me out, going down on Friday as travelling from Durham via the M6. so see you all there. Regards Allan

Great topic, this will make my job a little easier doing mine now thank you IanS

The East of England team are doing a run out and picnic lunch at Rutland Water on Sunday 12th. If anyone else wants to join us please let me know and I will give you details.

Looking at the length of the hoses from the resevoirs to the MC, gravity feed should be possible. Unbolt the resevoirs and suspend them still connected as high as you can. Fill them and crack the bleed nipples and wait keeping checking the fluid level.

Happy bank holiday garage time chaps, Almost completed my Gen1 Zero nut and bolt rebuild and want to prime and bleed Fiat 128 dual master cylinder with remote reservoirs. Is there a particular in which I do this? Any help would be gratefully received. The attached image shows siting of reservoirs. Thanks, Craig

Thank you Alan

UPDATE the Charity farm meet has been put back until the 12th May due to the campsite being busy over the bank holiday weekend. the weather looks better on the 12th more details to follow

https://the-mite.com/mite18.htm Found this if you do fancy shortening the box, you can lose 4" with this method (should you need it) Just to add if you are in the North Notts/South Yorks area & want to pick a gearbox up to play with to see if you can shorten one I have one here you can have for a donation to the RNLI the next time you see a collection box.

Yes, I have to agree - Mazda a much better engine and the gearbox is particularly good - far better than the Type 9 or MT75 that Ford's use. However, it's always going to be tricky on a tight budget and, personally, I would hate to have to start with someone else's half-finished project. I guess suggesting you buy a 2nd hand chassis (often come up on eBay etc) and start from scratch is a non-starter? You could re-use anything decent on the S7 (suspension, brakes etc?) but then you get a modern chassis and you can re-do everything the way you want it?

As our longer serving members will know, the Club started life as the “Robin Hood Owners Club”, and it was later changed to “Robin Hood Owners Club and Register” (RHOCaR). Even I don’t remember the reason for that change, I expect someone can enlighten me. Then a few years ago we could see the membership was shrinking, for the logical reason that no new Robin Hoods were being produced. So we decided to rename ourselves to the “UK Kit Car Club” and welcome owners of any type of kit car. This has been very successful and we now have members with a wide variety of cars. However, one thing still remains from the old days and that is the forum address of www.rhocar.org. So, looking to the future, we have now registered a new address of www.ukkitcarclub.org. In the future we will migrate everything across to the new address, but meantime it is just an alternative way of accessing the forum. Although there is no real need for you to change, I would encourage everyone to start using the new address in correspondence, advertising or signatures so we can be ready for the move. Al Richey (Webmaster)

Personally I think the MX5 engine is a far better engine than the Ford boat anchor, as to fitting it in the S7 can't help really help you. Again only my thoughts would be to buy a whole car rather then just a 'kit' that way you have everything you need, just in case it didn't come with the 'kit' you buy. As for wiring I'd rip the whole lot out & replace with the MX5 wiring harness, if you buy a later 2.5 version then you won't need to run a fuel return as it's built into the fuel pump, assuming you can run that pump, if you can't then you'll have to run a return from the front, or there is a Vauxhall (I think) fuel filter with a pressure regulator built in. Big things you will have to consider & I'm sure you have, is engine mounting, but that should be fairly straight forward possibly modifying the MX5 ones, but the fore/aft positioning might be more interesting to get the gearstick in the right place. if it's too far back as it's a long gearbox there is a way to shorten them but no idea how. I spoke to a guy with one in a Moggy Thou van & he'd taken 5" off it's length. You'll obviously need a rear gearbox mount but again can't see that being too difficult, then of course a custom propshaft, MX5 gearbox out to Ford whatever in, then there is the diff ratio to consider, unless it's the Sierra rear & you can swap that for the MX5, but then you're looking at custom driveshafts.

Hope Ive popped this in the right section. Ive got an S7 that previously had a 2.0 Pinto (was all up and running and road registered) - when I bought it there was no engine and box. It does have a prop and rear axle. Having given it a good looking over I think the loom is pretty butchered so although the mounts etc are there ready for a replacement pinto I am thinking shall I just bite the bullet and get a Mk2 MX5 1.8 that runs and do an engine/box/loom swap. My questions are - Am I mad and should I just patch up the loom and get another pinto (I have been offered one with a transit gearbox for £600) or Get an 1.8 MX 5 and rip it apart - will the engine fit, would I need to modify/swap the the steering column Or is there another option that I havent considered - I do have a fairly tight budget! Thanks in advance.

I think that our cars are on the second row.

Welcome to you all