Jump to content
Burney

Pinto Electrics

Recommended Posts

Hi

I'm wiring a new CBS prewired 'loom/fusebox' into my exmo after upgrading and adding a number of electrical fittings and accessories that were either missing or broken on the car (lights/horns/reverse/fog etc).

It has been relatively straight forward tracing the circuits to the accessories and switches using a continuity tester and diagrams of the ford stalk switches attached.

I have some general queries on the major engine component connections though and ask for comments and advice.

UPPER 5 - shows wire to + side of alternator. The existing connection comes off a relay should I leave this?

UPPER 6 shows a connection to the starter. This is the live feed to the fuse board, made live only when igniton turned?

UPPER 10 shows a connection to the accessory part of the ignition switch, whats this for?

LOWER 2 shows 2 connections one to a fuel pump (I dont think the pinto has an electric fuel pump?) and one to the positive side of the coil. There are only 2 wires I can see coming back to the existing loom from the coil and both go onto the rev counter (which doesnt work yet). Other cables from the + side of coil go into some sort of silver plate?

I have an existing battery isolator switch wired up which I like. Where is the best place for this in the new setup?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts

Kris

 

 

Screenshot_20200330-022949_Drive.jpg

Screenshot_20200330-024035_Chrome.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Upper 5 - if there's already a relay there it it worked previously I'd be tempted to leave it it. 

Upper 6 - No this is permanent live, fed direct from the battery via a big terminal on the starter motor. This is the main power feed for all the electrics so make this wire as big as you can.

Upper 10 - this is your accessory feed so you could use this for a radio (if you felt the need to have one) or maybe fag lighter or charging sockets for phone, sat nav etc.

Lower 2 is just an ignition feed. As you say, if you don't have an electric fuel pump then one connection can be ignored. The connection of the second one will depend on what ignition system you're running. The silver plate you mention is probably the electronic ignition module. Refer to this page to identify what system you have:

https://nw.rhocar.org/Ford ignition systems.htm

2 wires going in to the distributor is inductive ignition where Lower 2 will connect to +side of the coil and the Black wire of the module.

or 3 wires going in to distributor will be ESC1 in which case Lower 2 will connect to +side of the coil and terminal 2 of the module.

The isolator switch should go in either the battery positive or earth leads, ideally as close to the battery as you can get it.

Is there any significance to the second image of the lights / wiper wiring?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Richy I'll work through those

The coloured switch diagram is what I'm using as a guide to trace lights, horn wipers etc. I wanted to get rid of the ford setup but didnt realise I'd need to change to steering column

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Burney said:

Thanks Richy I'll work through those

The coloured switch diagram is what I'm using as a guide to trace lights, horn wipers etc. I wanted to get rid of the ford setup but didnt realise I'd need to change to steering column

Why do you need to change the column?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took it off its mounting from the bulkhead behind the ignition barrel housing and stalks but I cant see a way to take all that casting off the column behind the steering wheel mount.  I was hoping i could just un bolt that and bin it and tie on a new indicator stalk with a dash mount push button start

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/31/2020 at 3:31 PM, richyb66 said:

Upper 5 - if there's already a relay there it it worked previously I'd be tempted to leave it it. 

Upper 6 - No this is permanent live, fed direct from the battery via a big terminal on the starter motor. This is the main power feed for all the electrics so make this wire as big as you can.

Upper 10 - this is your accessory feed so you could use this for a radio (if you felt the need to have one) or maybe fag lighter or charging sockets for phone, sat nav etc.

Lower 2 is just an ignition feed. As you say, if you don't have an electric fuel pump then one connection can be ignored. The connection of the second one will depend on what ignition system you're running. The silver plate you mention is probably the electronic ignition module. Refer to this page to identify what system you have:

https://nw.rhocar.org/Ford ignition systems.htm

2 wires going in to the distributor is inductive ignition where Lower 2 will connect to +side of the coil and the Black wire of the module.

or 3 wires going in to distributor will be ESC1 in which case Lower 2 will connect to +side of the coil and terminal 2 of the module.

The isolator switch should go in either the battery positive or earth leads, ideally as close to the battery as you can get it.

Is there any significance to the second image of the lights / wiper wiring?

 

Hi Richy, thanks for your comments. I have the vital bits swapped over and car running 1st turn

Gonna work my way through lights and accessories next. Wipers have never been wired in and theres something gone adrift with the horn switch but pleased the swap over was painless

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just be careful on the horn don't know on the Pinto but put a couple of these on Mini kits & the horn is wired the opposite way round 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, phaeton said:

Just be careful on the horn don't know on the Pinto but put a couple of these on Mini kits & the horn is wired the opposite way round 

Cheers na its straight on this one got a satisfying parp 🤣🤣

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Burney
      Hi all
      My original glass bowl lamps are very attractive but very dull is there a replacement LED lamp unit I can fit?
      The sidelight is non existant in the origibal lamp but the bulb and wiring is taped out the way so would be good to get a combo unit
       
      Kris
    • By Burney
      Hi folks
       
      I'm a new RH Exmo owner. Great fun had at back end of summer although as the darker nights approached I noticed my rear lights are not working but the headlights are.
      Indicators are off too
      Are these all on the same citcuit/fuse?
      Hoping to play with this problem over my xmas hols
      There are a number of other electrical issues for me to work through but lights are a badic requirement for me to enjpy safe road fun
      Kris
    • By matvic
      Listing on eBay at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252475097953
       
      Starting price on eBay at £1995
    • By PintoPowered
      hi guys i have cobra monaco seats in my exmo and wanting to replace them any pics of what you have fitted cheers Mark
    • By LezLezLez
      I have a Robin Hood Exmo and its windscreen shattered last week. (a) I need a replacement. Also this car has yet to be IVA'ed so compliance is a requirement. ( Does anyone have advice on IVA windscreen compliance?
      I see in the forums many contacts for glaziers who may be able to help. Also I have yet to contact GBS Spares but will do so next. All comments appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...