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Pinto Electrics


Burney
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Hi

I'm wiring a new CBS prewired 'loom/fusebox' into my exmo after upgrading and adding a number of electrical fittings and accessories that were either missing or broken on the car (lights/horns/reverse/fog etc).

It has been relatively straight forward tracing the circuits to the accessories and switches using a continuity tester and diagrams of the ford stalk switches attached.

I have some general queries on the major engine component connections though and ask for comments and advice.

UPPER 5 - shows wire to + side of alternator. The existing connection comes off a relay should I leave this?

UPPER 6 shows a connection to the starter. This is the live feed to the fuse board, made live only when igniton turned?

UPPER 10 shows a connection to the accessory part of the ignition switch, whats this for?

LOWER 2 shows 2 connections one to a fuel pump (I dont think the pinto has an electric fuel pump?) and one to the positive side of the coil. There are only 2 wires I can see coming back to the existing loom from the coil and both go onto the rev counter (which doesnt work yet). Other cables from the + side of coil go into some sort of silver plate?

I have an existing battery isolator switch wired up which I like. Where is the best place for this in the new setup?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts

Kris

 

 

Screenshot_20200330-022949_Drive.jpg

Screenshot_20200330-024035_Chrome.jpg

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Upper 5 - if there's already a relay there it it worked previously I'd be tempted to leave it it. 

Upper 6 - No this is permanent live, fed direct from the battery via a big terminal on the starter motor. This is the main power feed for all the electrics so make this wire as big as you can.

Upper 10 - this is your accessory feed so you could use this for a radio (if you felt the need to have one) or maybe fag lighter or charging sockets for phone, sat nav etc.

Lower 2 is just an ignition feed. As you say, if you don't have an electric fuel pump then one connection can be ignored. The connection of the second one will depend on what ignition system you're running. The silver plate you mention is probably the electronic ignition module. Refer to this page to identify what system you have:

https://nw.rhocar.org/Ford ignition systems.htm

2 wires going in to the distributor is inductive ignition where Lower 2 will connect to +side of the coil and the Black wire of the module.

or 3 wires going in to distributor will be ESC1 in which case Lower 2 will connect to +side of the coil and terminal 2 of the module.

The isolator switch should go in either the battery positive or earth leads, ideally as close to the battery as you can get it.

Is there any significance to the second image of the lights / wiper wiring?

 

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Thanks Richy I'll work through those

The coloured switch diagram is what I'm using as a guide to trace lights, horn wipers etc. I wanted to get rid of the ford setup but didnt realise I'd need to change to steering column

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1 hour ago, Burney said:

Thanks Richy I'll work through those

The coloured switch diagram is what I'm using as a guide to trace lights, horn wipers etc. I wanted to get rid of the ford setup but didnt realise I'd need to change to steering column

Why do you need to change the column?

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I took it off its mounting from the bulkhead behind the ignition barrel housing and stalks but I cant see a way to take all that casting off the column behind the steering wheel mount.  I was hoping i could just un bolt that and bin it and tie on a new indicator stalk with a dash mount push button start

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On 3/31/2020 at 3:31 PM, richyb66 said:

Upper 5 - if there's already a relay there it it worked previously I'd be tempted to leave it it. 

Upper 6 - No this is permanent live, fed direct from the battery via a big terminal on the starter motor. This is the main power feed for all the electrics so make this wire as big as you can.

Upper 10 - this is your accessory feed so you could use this for a radio (if you felt the need to have one) or maybe fag lighter or charging sockets for phone, sat nav etc.

Lower 2 is just an ignition feed. As you say, if you don't have an electric fuel pump then one connection can be ignored. The connection of the second one will depend on what ignition system you're running. The silver plate you mention is probably the electronic ignition module. Refer to this page to identify what system you have:

https://nw.rhocar.org/Ford ignition systems.htm

2 wires going in to the distributor is inductive ignition where Lower 2 will connect to +side of the coil and the Black wire of the module.

or 3 wires going in to distributor will be ESC1 in which case Lower 2 will connect to +side of the coil and terminal 2 of the module.

The isolator switch should go in either the battery positive or earth leads, ideally as close to the battery as you can get it.

Is there any significance to the second image of the lights / wiper wiring?

 

Hi Richy, thanks for your comments. I have the vital bits swapped over and car running 1st turn

Gonna work my way through lights and accessories next. Wipers have never been wired in and theres something gone adrift with the horn switch but pleased the swap over was painless

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3 hours ago, phaeton said:

Just be careful on the horn don't know on the Pinto but put a couple of these on Mini kits & the horn is wired the opposite way round 

Cheers na its straight on this one got a satisfying parp 🤣🤣

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  • 2 months later...

Hello Burney, I'm wiring one of these up too.

May I ask a couple of questions to pick your brains?

Where did you wire in the rear fogs - currently I have them off the dipped beams as per the ford wiring harness. This mean that they turn off when you switch from dipped to full. Do you find the same?

Horn - I can hear the relay click, but no sound. If I wire up direct  the horn sounds as it should (but is not fused). Have you found this issue too?

Where have you put in the reversing lights? - I've used the same spur as the brake lights

Did you have fun and games with the hazards currently mine are working without the hazard feed from the ford column switch, except when the ignition is off. If I link the hazard feed to the brake spur everything works fine🤦‍♂️ (it gets better - when I had tehm linked to the "correct" spur, adn the ignition was off, when you turned them on the engine would turn in time with the blinkers🤣)

Currently the for column switch light feed is disconnected (lights work fine).  If I connect to the "correct " spur, they don't work. What I'm worried about is that they're not fused currently

Lastly, have you wired the wipers yet?

 

Sorry, I know I've piled in with a load of questions, but if you have time It'd be great to pick your brains

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20 hours ago, zhap135 said:

Hello Burney, I'm wiring one of these up too.

May I ask a couple of questions to pick your brains?

Where did you wire in the rear fogs - currently I have them off the dipped beams as per the ford wiring harness. This mean that they turn off when you switch from dipped to full. Do you find the same?

Horn - I can hear the relay click, but no sound. If I wire up direct  the horn sounds as it should (but is not fused). Have you found this issue too?

Where have you put in the reversing lights? - I've used the same spur as the brake lights

Did you have fun and games with the hazards currently mine are working without the hazard feed from the ford column switch, except when the ignition is off. If I link the hazard feed to the brake spur everything works fine🤦‍♂️ (it gets better - when I had tehm linked to the "correct" spur, adn the ignition was off, when you turned them on the engine would turn in time with the blinkers🤣)

Currently the for column switch light feed is disconnected (lights work fine).  If I connect to the "correct " spur, they don't work. What I'm worried about is that they're not fused currently

Lastly, have you wired the wipers yet?

 

Sorry, I know I've piled in with a load of questions, but if you have time It'd be great to pick your brains

Hi there

Thanks for your interest

I did wire the fogs into the dipped beams which formed the live connection for all my lights. My main beams are on a separate live and both dipped and main are oprated through a rotary switch on my dashboard. Good question about fogs not sure if mine go off with main beam will check although you would normally drive in fog with dipped beam anyway to prevent fog blinding?

I had problem with the horn too which is because my new horn had its own relay built in. In the end I just wired up the horn through one of the ancilliary spares to avoid the fuseboards built in relay.

I wired the breaklight to the breaklight circuit on the new board as it was prewired through the loom and worked well

I did have issue with the hazards and in the end I pulled all the ford wiring and relays out and wired to the new module. I stripped out the stalks from the ford colum and only retained the hazard switch. I wired up a separate indicator switch, horn switch and rotary wiper switch.

When I wired up the wiper I found I had slow wiper and washers work but I have no fast or park! I think this will probably be a problem with my wiper motor rather than the wiring but I'm living with that as I'm a fair weather driver.

I'm pleased with the results after a few test runs knowing that I can put the electrics to the back of my mind. Working on airlock issue now and bike carbs.

Let me know if you need anything else

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Hi Burney, thanks for your reply!

3 hours ago, Burney said:

Hi there

Thanks for your interest

I did wire the fogs into the dipped beams which formed the live connection for all my lights. My main beams are on a separate live and both dipped and main are oprated through a rotary switch on my dashboard. Good question about fogs not sure if mine go off with main beam will check although you would normally drive in fog with dipped beam anyway to prevent fog blinding?

That did occur to me too – I’m going have a chat to a mate of mine who has a Capri to see what his do – I’ll let you know what the answer is, I’d be really interested to know if yours do the same.

I had problem with the horn too which is because my new horn had its own relay built in. In the end I just wired up the horn through one of the ancilliary spares to avoid the fuseboards built in relay.

That’s an idea. Also thought of putting in an ancillary fuse box to separate out anything contentious. Not an elegant solution though…

I wired the breaklight to the breaklight circuit on the new board as it was prewired through the loom and worked well

I did have issue with the hazards and in the end I pulled all the ford wiring and relays out and wired to the new module. I stripped out the stalks from the ford colum and only retained the hazard switch. I wired up a separate indicator switch, horn switch and rotary wiper switch.

Aah, I’m trying to keep the ford stalks, just cos I like them, but I have a feeling there are some strange circuit loops in there which are causing some of these issues.

When I wired up the wiper I found I had slow wiper and washers work but I have no fast or park! I think this will probably be a problem with my wiper motor rather than the wiring but I'm living with that as I'm a fair weather driver.

I’ve got something similar there. I’ve adapted a mini rack and pinion motor to fit. This worked well with the ford wiring, but not so much with the CBS – just one speed. I hear you re the fair weather driver bit, but it’s bugging me

I'm pleased with the results after a few test runs knowing that I can put the electrics to the back of my mind. Working on airlock issue now and bike carbs.

Absolutely. As I retained some portions of the ford loom, I was expecting some issues, but largely this has worked well. I only swapped it out in the end cos I had a load of earthing problems that I couldn’t identify – everything had been sat out in my mum’s garden for years so there was a load of corrosion and mouse-chewed cable

Let me know if you need anything else

Absolutely, likewise if anything crops up! will let you know what the feed back from my mate with the capri is

Cheers

A

3 hours ago, Burney said:

 

 

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Thank you, checked out my fogs and they stay on regardless of main beam activation.

 

I think I renewed the whole loom for the rear lights as most of the lights weren't connected and were hanging loose in the rear arches

 

Not sure why I have wiper issues but am interested to know if you sort. There were some good diagrams on the forums hear which got me started

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  • 4 months later...

IGNITION MODULE HELP REQUIRED

The very helpful post above with the Bosch 3 lead dizzy and Ford Motorcraft Ign Module is very helpful.

I have been trying to find a definitive diagram of the module wiring for some time and there is a lot of confusion over this.

So Question is: looking at the module from above and at the front connection side with 1 being on the left to 6 on the right. The general advice is that the Ford Brown wire goes to earth and is No  6 eg. on the right. The diagram shows the brown lead on the left at No 1. This ties in with other information I found that the diagram is effectively upside down!

As so many guys appear to have had or are having the same problem, head scratching over which is the correct way toi wire up this particular Module - Let us say from scratch, not engaging with an existing loom. I would be garteful for clarification on the diagram as to whether the order of wiring is with Brown at 1 or 6.

Sorry for the pedantry in this post but really looking for the correct answer rather than fry the module.

Thanks in advance

Mike 1983 2.0 SOHC PINTO

 

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Hopefully this might help. I used to use this system prior to converting to Megajolt but I do have a photo of the module which shows the brown earth wire going to Pin 1.

DSCF0348_cr.jpg.a87dbb886117885b531b3feb136ae14f.jpg

This was the wiring diagram of the ignition system I used:

Ignition.thumb.JPG.45f31d19b1b56ffca0594a5fe3a320e5.JPG

I think that most diagrams are shown for clarity of wiring rather than the actual pin order of the module as the above is.

Nigel.

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