colinmoore

I too tried the accuspark dizzy and stealth black box, never got it to run properly, so I ditched the module, and ran the accu dizzy with modified spring set up. With 10-14 degrees static advance. this ran much better in my 2.0 pinto.

I personally prefer the look of my kit with a spare wheel, it also adds some protection from rear end impacts, by spreading the load. Remember the fuel tank is just behind it!

MOT after first 12 months on my Q plate.

Yes I read an article on how to spot a fake, I thought this pump had all the credentials, but it's not easy to spot a fake. I'll probably put this replacement on the bay, for somebody else to take a chance.

How about a Duratec engine ha ha.

So I have a 2B running a 2.0 Duratec, with a swirl pot in the boot that is supplied by a Facet silvertop pump on the ingnition on circuit. The HP pump is a cheapie from ebay (£30), well I am a pensoner. Anyway as the HP pump is a bit of a screamer, only heard at idle, I thought I would upgrade to a proper Bosch 044 pump. This was sorced though ebay from Austrailia, and claimed to be the genuine article, it has the correct hologram, and the helicoil on the inlet, so seemed to be the real deal. Coming from this seller was at about half price delivered to what we can buy over here, so after a wait it arrived and was fitted. Still not that quiet, but better than the cheapie, after about 500 miles I was stranded at the roadside with no fuel pressure and a blown 15 amp supply fuse to the HP pump. A Hoodie bodge (a direct feed from the battery) gave no movement from the pump, so a quick call home had my wife winging her way to me with the cheapie pump from the garage. Luckily it was close to home and within my wifes comfort zone, after fitting, I was up and running again. On checking the Bosch pump later, a resistance check accross the terminals showed only 0.3 Ohms, almost a dead short. Now to my dilemma, the pump is being returned to Australia (£25) for a warrenty replacement, so do I trust this genuine replacement, or continue to use the cheapie screamer?

The standard sierra cable is on the short side and requires to be run between the centre of the exhaust manifold, which is then subject to excessive heat. The 2 WD cosworth cable is long enough to go around the front of the engine and avoid the heat build up. Neither of these cables have adjusters to my knowledge, and are the correct length for the automatic adjustment of the sierra peddle box.

Tuner Studio MS is what I use for micro squirt, which has a basic free download. You can buy a full version, but I don't think you will need it for megajolt.

Make sure there are no air leaks into the exhaust before the lamda, as this will give a false weak mixture to the sensor, which in turn will keep enriching the fuel duration. I had this recently leading to a over rich misfire.

What do you mean Richy, stop talking about it, and get going!

88 Bob.

An alternative to the Mondeo set up, is the 4x4 sierra calipers that have 60mm pistons, and 260mm discs. I bought the mondeo calipers, that use 300mm discs, but was taken aback by there physical size & weight. The 4x4 calipers fit without modification and give me a better feel as I have no room for a servo now.

Regarding SIP welder, is your wire ok, with no rusting due to storeage. I had a similar problem, and had to change liner + wire.

088 in again please.

You certainly know how to get peoples attention Bob.

88 please Bob

Hi Neil, there's a place near me on the holmthorpe estate that does wrapping , Bossdog, Ormside way. Don't know if they will supply material only though.

I think it was designed to be a "Disposable" engine, not one to be overhauled, just replaced. A nice lightweight, good power for money, if you are happy with its limitations.

Your right Richy, perhaps I can drill some holes to make them lighter, lol.

Your right Richy, perhaps I can drill some holes in them to make them lighter.lol

I actually bought some mondeo calipers with the intention of following Richy's example, but they are massive, I didn't go as far as to buy 300mm discs, as I thought about the unsprung weight I would add to my modest power increase. Having shed about 50 Kilos on the engine change, I though of a more modest upgrade, that I hope won't unsettle the brake balance. I have ditched the ball in can rear brake restricting device that the IVA man insisted I fit to prevent rear locking, and as I already had some 60mm piston front calipers (normal ones are 54mm ) but much the same weight, I thought I would go down this route. Time will tell, I know with a good prod the standard brakes will work fine, but we have all been spoiled with power assistance on any thing that requires effort.

Well the winter upgrade is nearly finished, the Duratec is in, and running. A quick test on the road has shown some interesting pointers:- 1. It's quick, 2. It's smoother than the Pinto, 3. I need to do something with the brakes, as I miss the servo assistance, (no room) https://postimg.org/image/rcnyb608p/ https://postimg.org/image/dizlm7n3t/ https://postimg.org/image/y34fkpiah/ Next step is to fit larger discs, and calipers from the Sierra 4 x 4, which have 260mm discs and 60mm piston calipers, the kit already has rear discs. Then I need to get it MOT'd and taxed, ready for the warmer weather. I also need to find a rolling road, with someone who can handle Micro squirt (not everyone can) to get a proper set up, as base map installed at the moment.

I found Colin Ushers build Manual a great help when building mine, good drawings on most components that are missed in the videos. I didn't follow his cut down bonnet though.

I think the internals are the same, supposed to be safe to around 200 bhp after which you may need ARP bolts forged pistons etc. The head porting is better than the zetec, and you can get around 190 bhp with just ITB's after that it's cams, and a little head work. I think the MX5 gearbox is a straight bolt on, but you need to cant the engine over to about 10 degrees, a special sump is made for this purpose (Raceline).

Just fitted a Duratec from a Fiesta ST150 to my 2B, I think the only difference from the Mondeo engine is a solid flywheel, and a larger throttle body, which is not much use to us as it means the engine will sit 4-5 inches further forward because of its position from the manifold. This is not a problem when fitting ITB's . You can pick up a reasonable engine for around £500, but the sundries you need to fit it will more than quadruple this figure, ie bell housing, sump, water rail, throttle bodies, ecu, etc