If it's any help, my 3A measurements are: 26.5cm between spindles, 5cm from base of screen. I use 20cm blades and adjustable length arms which I had to bend the ends to allow the blades to lie parallel to the base of the screen
Thanks Stuart, brought back memories of traffic free roads and scrap yards where you could climb over the cars and take your own parts off them (no health and safety issues then)!
Check if the uj needle bearings are retained by circlip. If so then you can replace the joint yourself (if you can find the correct size!). I used Northwest Propshafts to alter mine, they may be able to rebuild yours
If you've got the head and carbs then all you need to buy is the cam and head gasket. My engine is as the post above but the head was skimmed to raise CR and a megajolt was fitted to fine tune the ignition. Gave 140 bhp at the flywheel on the rollers but more importantly to me is the loads of torque it produces.
Sierra pedals, Fiat 132 master cylinder (the Ka cylinder won't fit under my bonnet line), new vented discs and pads, new drums and shoes. 140bhp engine. Grippy tyres. My brakes have plenty of feel and stops ok and I'm happy with it
Thanks for letting us know. Apparently the CUE database holds info on reported incidents that may or may not give rise to a claim. As insurance companies can see both claims and non-claim incidents I'm going to make sure that ALL my insurance companies get told of any incidents.
I've always used an optimate to keep my m/c batteries topped up. Wired one of their fused weatherproof sockets permanently to the battery and connect the optimate to that if I'm not going to use the bike for long periods. Never lost a battery yet.
If you don't want to count the number of teeth on your existing belt you could always run a piece of string round It to give an idea of the length of the replacement