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Snapperpaul

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Everything posted by Snapperpaul

  1. I have added this link to a Locostbuilders thread that I had forgotten about, it shows the measured distance from block face to min and max dipstick levels http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=142862
  2. Be aware that some of the valves or flame traps are one way valves used between manifold and servo. i mistakenly added one before the vacuum line to the Megajolt and as vacuum increased it set the advance at 1 level and stayed there
  3. Just a thought if all else fails swap front break pipes on the master cylinder, if the other side locks up it’s the master cylinder most master cylinders have two outlets for the front, 1 for the rear which goes to a T piece near the back
  4. Gauges measure differential resistance, they usually only have 1 wire to the sender, if the sender wire is broken or the sender does not Earth through the block the gauge will read maximum. often to much PTFE will block the sender earth, I only wrap half of the thread in PTFE. If you have a T piece or double output adaptor that takes the sender and the warning light switch you’ll probably have PTFE on that as well. you could try a crocodile clip on the pressure sender body and earth that to check
  5. I’m doing my brakes as we speak, found the left front also locks first but not by much. The master cylinder has 3 connections front left, front right and rear, once tyres and brakes are warm the front pulls up square I think the 1 wheel first thing is a Robin Hood trait. The rear drums are not worn much at all, this is normal for drum brakes on a light car and remember at IVA they check the tears don’t lock up first this balance is not easy to adjust but you don’t need more braking to the rear in normal driving
  6. I stick the gasket to the maticulously cleaned sump gasket face with grey hyloma let that dry overnight then a thin smear on the exposed surface and present the sump to the block using the bolts to hold it gently in place, let it dry overnight then nip up to required ft/lbs one of the places the Pinto leaks from is the rear main bearing caps, I squirt Grey hyloma down the gap the sump triangle wedges go in before I push them in and smear the external joint face
  7. I have he very same issue, I don’t like the idea of half a gallon (2.273045 litres) of Sikaflex self supported so am looking at a stainless steel blank for the outside and still thinking about the inside look, possibly an insert covered in dash material. There will be sikaflex involved (don’t sniff it, it’s really hard to get of your nose hairs) to seal the stainless blank from the inside.
  8. If you have standard Pinto injection and Ford ecu and it’s all running well and you have a vernier cam I would suggest you have an FR34 injection cam which has the same valve overlap but more lift. a good simple way to get more out of an injection Pinto pull the rocker cover off and look st the back end of the cam, it will have letters and numbers stamped into the end which will tell you what cam you have. firring an aftermarket ecu will not make any noticeable difference and you would only need that if the cam was more aggressive and the engine not running well.
  9. If got photos of a sliding pillar to wishbone conversion which I can transfer by Dropbox, we transfer or burn to disc
  10. Vizard says 7mm less venturie than carb number. yes the 40’s can take a wider venturi but you get less of the venturi effect
  11. If you were running twin 40’s and FR32 you would be very near the max airflow the engine required. 40’s can only accommodate a 33mm venturie and are only used on a relatively standard engine. twin 45,s allow venturie up to 38mm, you probably need 35 to 36mm venturies for an FR32 cam. you will need to get whatever carbs you put on the car rolling road tuned to make it work
  12. My cousin was a top panel beater and painter, he said to me I would need to key the stainless with a medium/fine emery or scotchbright and use an etch primer
  13. There back, does this mean my photobox account is live once more?
  14. https://www.flickr.com/photos/152569273@N05/shares/8a0Ut3 if this works you should see 3 photos of pedal box reinforcement for the S3a trust me this does not move at all
  15. You can run some flat bar between the welded in flat bar and bolt the rear seat bolts to that. it will stiffen the floor and stop the seat flexing
  16. The top “filler thread” is actually a missing breather tube and whilst I suppose you could drains fluid out of the when not bolted to the car and fill it, the proper filler hole is also a level plug, when oils drips out when filling its full. you can get an adaptor to fill the top hole with a barbed fitting for a tube from CBS then runna length of rubber pipe for a breather
  17. This was a pretty amazing collection of film made all the more moving by the commentary. The colouring of the video made more of an impact than I expected. Great piece of work
  18. One of the issues that you should be aware of is the mounting height above the seat base. This is sometimes misread from the IVA guidance as 450mm. It is a bit more than this because of a block placed on the seat which moves the top mounting point requirement dependant on the seat base angle. The block is 53mm heigh and 136mm long. In reality it moves the required seat mounting points to above 503mm height but you should check the IVA manual. Or look for my response to Macramsays post Iva Seatbelt Upper Anchorage The problem with shoulder straps through a seat at the IVA station I use (Norwich) was to just loop the belts round the seat not through the seat for the test. In reality you should dummy mount the seat, do the calculations about seatbelt height and check where the mounts should be to not rub the straps on the seat.
  19. You would only get your calculation if there was no overlap and all cams have some overlap. There are also some laws of physics that come into play. The Americans use dynamic compression ratio as a target that guides the required static compression ratio that you would build an engine to and its so much more than just cam overlap. It takes into account, stroke, rod length and angle, cam lobe vented and a hole lot more. Yes I did read articles on it and no I dont fully understand it but it makes a bit of sense how you can run higher static compression ratios with high lift higher overlap cams and why you shouldnt use higher compression ratios with high lift low overlap cams
  20. These are the expected compression figures CR Fast STD Road Rally Race 8:1 146 139 132 124 9:1 171 162 153 145 10:1 196 186 176 166 11:1 221 210 199 188 First column compression ratio Second standard cam Etc A restrictive carb such as a single twin choke will show lower figures than a choke per port
  21. Cam belt drive cog pulls off but its tight and access is not good due to belt guide. There is a woodruff key in the crank nose to locate. See topic well that didnt work to see my recommendations for removal
  22. Yes they are bar stewards to get off Because of the belt guid you have little chance of getting a puller on so I applaud you home built one. Perhaps clouting it whilst turning the puller bolt wil get it to move. I ended up with a large screwdriver that I got behind the gear the tap and turn the crankshaft then tap again for hours until I had room for a larger bar. Once its part way off the woodruf key itll slide off.
  23. Check head and block are flat Gaskets often go between 3 & 4 as that is the narrow point. Depending on head bolt type you may need new bolts
  24. I used straight bars with no problems but the brackets that attach to the monocoque sides are far to small. You need them wider and a thick plate under the floor with similar inside to spread the forces or the monocoque will buckle, I also ran 25mm x 50mm box under the car joining both tiebar mounts like a strut brace.
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