Sparepart

I see that you have another post about the stalk switch electrics. Perhaps you might find the Sierra electric circuit diagrams useful in answering your questions. You can see these in the service and repair manual that you can try and download from the link below. Of course this assumes that you are using the donor wiring loom for your 2b. Probably the four wires that you have in the dome lights are for earth, side, main and dipped beams. Looking at the wiring diagram, page 13.56 there should be a brown wire (earth for the side light), grey/Red (sidelight), Blue/Brown (common return for main/high and dipped beam), Yellow(Dipped beam feed), White(Main/High beam feed). Thats 5 wires, so I don't know what the sixth is, but you will see the colour and check with the diagrams. Also if the loom is still on the donor then of course you can just check out which ones are live when you operate the lights to confirm the diagram. https://musse67.mbnet.fi/Taunus/Korjausoppaat/ Just had another look, and if the sixth wire is Black it's probably for the fog light, which you will most likely not need (yet). Note that the High/Dipped beams do not appear to run straight to earth (brown) like the side light and fog light. They use the Blue/Brown common return.

It does indeed explain, thank you very much for sharing this. In short when the engine is cold starting it prevents too rich a mixture (i.e. flooding) if the throttle is used to take revs above the idle rate. (I think). If the diaphragm fails then I assume there would be a tendency to get a rich mixture when driving with a cold engine, until the bi-metal coil expands enough to release the choke fully. So I notice (now) that some of the service kits that come from Germany do have this diaphragm, just not the one I bought, ho hum. .... just looked at the mechanism and I see it's the opposite of what I said above. When there is good vacuum below the throttle butterfly (idling) the diaphragm is compressing a spring that wants to release the choke. So if the diaphragm fails, the spring will constantly push the shaft that tries to release the choke (against the bi-metal coil that is hold in the choke on). This means that when the engine is cold it will tend to cut out if you try to rev it due to insufficiently rich mixture. There are so many parts to this carb, it looks like it was designed by the same committee that thought up a camel.

I am servicing a DFTH 30/34, it was well used and then been sitting around for a long time so its got a bit of corrosion on top of tar on the surfaces. All is going well so far, I have obtained a service kit and am helped by the exploded view that is attached below. I am puzzled by something. I see the automatic choke and how the bi-metal coil will unwind pressure on the choke butterfly etc this is item 4 in the diagram. I also see a part, item 14, which contains a diaphragm that is not in the service kit. Item 14 appears to be intimately involved with the choke, mounted at right angles to the bi-metal coil axis. I have not dissasembled this yet. Does anyone know what this part does? On the parts list is is "Kit-Choke Control" part number 6187682. Does it operate the choke at sometime after the engine is already hot. ?

I have replaced the driveshaft and pinion seals, luckily obtaining the correct size. I used the Haynes Sierra manual instructions for fitting, However during the process of Googling as much as I could about the Sierra Differentials I came across the link below, to Super 7th Heaven, which has more information about Sierra differentials than you ever want to know. You may have already found this, but just in case. Depending on what other components you might use on your car there is lots more information on this site. http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/components/sierra_rear_differential/ I have downloaded as much as I can of interest from here, in case it all dissapears into the big bit bucket.

The obviouse diagnostic would be to use a compression gauge and look at how good each cylinder is. The manual says that at starter motor speed the pressure should be between 11-13 bar (all except engine code NAE) or 10-12 bar ( NAE code). Most people can't just open their toolbox and whip out a compression gauge though. Does a lot of air/smoke come out of the oil filler hole on the cam cover, which would indicate excess combustion gasses passing some ring(s). Unlikely but there might be too much oil in the engine. Does the smoke coming from the exhast small "oily" or "petroly" i.e. is the smoke just too rich a petrol mixture because say the float in the carb is leaky. Is there a petroly smell under the bonnet. Is any oil weeping out of the top of the dipstick tube, blown up by too much pressure in the crank case from poor ring(s). Also the "Crankcase Ventilation System" (manual say check every 12 thousand miles) could be inspected to see if the vent valve is blocked or the oil separator is all gunked up with oil.

When you do this, I would think that there is the opportunity to modify the rear ride height, either accidentally or by design. Others will know if this then will have a good/bad knock on effect of altering the camber of the rear wheels?. You have probably considered this already, however I thought I would mention it just in case.

So basically you have also drilled a seperate hole on the plate, except instead of a gromit the welded nut accepts the threaded tube of the adjuster on the universal cable and presumably a lock nut on the outside of the pedal box plate. Yes I can imagine that is a neat setup, as you did not want/need to use the standard cable fitments at the carb end. Thanks.

Sorry, can't help with trackers, however if you are going to splash some cash, perhaps you could install a security camera that shows your garden, then you can see if the Landy is still there from anywhere in the world using your smartphone, but you have probably already considered this sort of thing. Also I couldnt help chuckling when I read your description, just a perverse sense of pernickity humour, I never heard of a Landrover that could catch fish and had done 10 million miles before.

I'm rebuilding using the same old springs, but have made brackets so that the long Sierra shocks at 45 degrees are replaced by much shorter vertical classic mini rear shocks. I think others have done this. There are loads of adjustable shocks for the rear of a classic mini, standard non adjustable are dead cheap, in keeping with the Exmo ethos.

Thanks Ian, pictures are worth a thousand words. One is left wondering why RHE blew the hole so low ?, just add that question to many vast imponderables regarding the build of their cars.

The rebuild has reached the pedal box. The brake and clutch mechanism has cleaned up and is in good shape and fits well. However I was in a rush on the original build, and just "shoe horned" the throttle pedal in. The pedal and pivot mount are unmodified Sierra and bolt to a vertical flap that is cut and bent up from the base of the bulkhead. It's simple to fit so I concentrated on getting a good pedal position. Things were going swimmingly until I fitted the thick steel plate that the servo and pedal box bolts to. RHE had kindly precut a hole of sorts, with a plasma cutter, for the throttle cable to pass through and large enough to fit the nice rubber grommit that is already on the Sierra cable. The problem was/is that the position of this hole is well below top of the throttle pedal, where the cable attaches. Dropping the pedal until the cable is level with the hole means the bottom of the pedal almost touches the floor. At the time I returned the pedal to a comfortable position, and had the cable clamped at a steep downward angle (like 45 deg) as it passed through the hole in the thick plate, the grommit looked pretty distorted and I had to keep it in by clamping the inner part with a jubilee clip. All this mash up is/was invisible when the pedal box cover is bolted on, however the bend in the cable and the angle at which the inner cable gets pulled is/was far from ideal. It worked, but for how long?... every time I pushed on the throttle an image of what was going on under the cover flashed into my mind. Now I have the time to fix this. I assume that every Exmo and S7 build must have faced a similar issue?, so what did people do?. I could drill another hole in the steel plate, higher up. I could alter the length of the pedal, but that will change the "sensitivity" of the throttle response, or make my own pedal. I am just wondering what others have done. I couldn't find anything relevent in the archives, and I think the build video is suitably vague in this area.

You must have noticed the crack in the alloy of the diff casing where the long bolt goes through, when I rebuilt, it took me ages of gentle persuasion and WD40 to free these long bolts, the steel corrodes to the alloy, almost reduced me to tears. Also do I see a spacer on the pinion flange, I don't have a spacer there, perhaps you had a slightly shorter prop shaft or the engine/gearbox is mounted a bit more forward ?

So you can probably see the bolt head from the top. What I have done in the past is to mark the center of the bolt by scribing lines from opposing apexes of the hex, then carefully marking with a punch, then starting with a small drill, say just 3mm, make a larger and larger hole just to the depth of the head until you get to a 10 mm drill ( If it is an M10 bolt). Now the head will just twist off because there is not much left attaching it.

The Hazard warning feed to all the indicator bulbs should be battery fed also. When you have finished your loom don't forget to top up with loom smoke, mine has escaped on several occasions from my home made loom.

On a normally aspirated standard sierra there is a "Fuel vapour seperator" in the pipeline from the tank to the pump, mounted not far from the pump in the engine bay. I think its there because the mechanical pump is sucking fuel out of the tank at the other end of the car, so the pulsing drops in pressure between the pump and the tank can lead to small pockets of vapour to be created, especially in hot climates. The seperator "vents" any pockets back to the fuel tank. Home central heating systems can have something similar to automatically bleed air the builds up, the "return" pipe runs back up to the header tank. Anyway, I digress, on my car I did away with the vapour seperator and the return pipe. I did connect a hose to the connector that was used by the return pipe on the top of the tank, next to the pick up pipe. The hose just runs up to a level as high as the top of the fuel filter and vents to air, Like Alan Richy I should put a non return valve in here in case the car rolls.

For your delight and edification I have uploaded an extract from an EXMO build video (cf offer from Brumster). In this extract, the godfather of RHE demonstrates, in his own inimitable style, how to remove scratches and blemishes from GRP. Eleven minutes of bliss ?. https://btcloud.bt.com/web/app/share/invite/YKl962yF9V

Like Richyb66 says the manual says to cut open the driveshaft joint cover and peel it back with pliers, Figure 7.6. DONT DO THIS because you cant get replacement covers. I have fitted the stretchy boots that use a strong plastic cone to open them up enough to slip over the joint cover, I have some photos of this somewhere if youd like to see them. As instructed, I used lots of washing up liquid to lubricate the process, and at first I couldn't believe that the boot would stretch enough to slide down the cone and snap back around the shaft on the other side of the joint, it looked impossible, but with a lot of effort and a few swear words it worked. Care is needed to end up with the boots on the right way around. I seem to remember that one of the pair needs to be turned inside out to get it on the cone in such a way that it snaps over and turns the right way round after. I sat there for a while rehearsing the process for each boot before doing it for real, because I couldn't see any way apart from cutting to get the boots off once fitted.

Chris, it looks like you could do with a look at the Sierra Service and Repair manual which covers changing the diff oil seals. When you get to the pinion seal you will need a good spanner and lots of leverage to loosen the nut (at least that what I found), anyway here is a link (just tested) to a site that has a pdf of the manual and also one for the type 9 gearbox, I would download and save it now in case it dissapears. https://musse67.mbnet.fi/Taunus/Korjausoppaat/

Dave, I agree, one needs to be highly scientific. Now you have posted these photos (great), I realise that if the original anti roll bar is still in use then adjustable TCAs are not a good idea as the anti roll bar will "fight" any change in distance between it's ends. In highly scientific terms it would be a pig's ear. Also, since your tie bars are not adjustable a change in camber will make a change to castor, not much, I know, I will come up with the equation any moment now, it involves Pi.

Take care, do not be too vigorous if you use a steel wire brush (say on a drill) to clean up any dull stainless steel, I found that some of the steel from the brush can get deposited in the microscopic scratches and eventually a brown haze of rust can appear that is problematic to shift.

Dave, I am interested in this, especially as you have them fitted, with a bit of negative camber the top of the wheel is going to move closer to the outrigger, has this been a problem ?, also has the self centering been affected ? also there must be a change in the angle at which the bearing at the top of the spring is loaded and some sideways pressure on the shock absorber shaft ?. I would be interested in your observations/experience and hear of what benefits this modification has realised.

I just have to comment to add agreement with what the others are saying. As an Exmo builder and owner I would say that only a masocist would try to put one together today and get it through approval. There are parts of the kit that would be saleable, GRP, front shocks and springs, and there might be a reconditioned steering rack, and even a windscreen could be wanted. However you might end up just disposing of the bodyshell. If it's a stainless shell you might find an Exmo owner with a zinc plated steel shell that wants to swap over as a project. Not sure if that would be legal ? The donor Sierra could be worth something, I read "Practical Classics" magazine, they have cars of that age in their free ads pages ... who know? Whatever, I wish you luck, it can't be easy given the circumstance of the disposal.

Googling what fuse ratings are used on a "classic" mini, gives this link:- https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/251403-fuses-by-location-circuits-covered-data/ You will note that on later models the WW fuse is 15 amps, what you are now using.

One small piece of information - You will need to measure the thickness of the anti roll bar, there are three dimensions, 24mm, 26mm and 28mm, obviously the two bushes that hold the anti roll bar in place need to be for the thickness of yours. Maybe I should use the word "diameter" not "thickness".

Try this link. It's a picture from a manual, supposed to be Transit 92+. http://www.ok.eclipse.co.uk/pictures/transit/92onlightschem.jpg