nelmo

You're only trying to cover up the 'sharp' edges on the nuts and thread and the only requirement is that it is not easily removable (so no tape, for example). You could just happily use some bicycle inner tube and cable ties to hold it in place, if you wanted.

:-) this link is more like it: http://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=762&search=Covers You can just about see the covers on in the pic from this post: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/suspend-belief.html

In case anyone is interested in LED rear lights, this lot have got the round, all-in-one units for £30 a pair (£84 on CBS) : https://www.dunbrionline.com/Brands/Dun-Bri-Group/Commercial-Vehicle-Lighting/Grouped-Single-Lights/DBG-Valueline-140mm-LED-Lamps/DBG-Valueline-140mm-LED-Lamp-StopTailIndicator-386300

I've got a switchable mapped ECU as well but mine just switches between a full power map and an emission-friendly map (for MOTs in the future). I've labelled the switch on the dashboard as 'Turbo ON/OFF' (no, I don't have a turbo).

If by that you mean a screw-in angle joint, then yeah My wishbones are definitely equal length because I remember trying to work out if it mattered which side they went on as I couldn't see any difference between the 2.

Good result :-) Not wishing to blow my own trumpet but I think I replied on your previous post telling you to check toe-in :-). I had similar problems to you and just correcting the toe-in solved it for me. Different length wishbones? Is that intentional? Seems wrong on a symmetrical chassis?

My first car was a 1981 VW Polo - I bought it in 1991 for £700. After 3 years, I gave it to my brother to take to Uni and, 2 months later, he swapped it for his bar tab (2 pints) :-o The guy who took it off him later donated it to some college in Swansea for their car mechanics course - it probably ended its life in better condition than when it came out the factory :-)

I don't know if you've seen these before but the link below is a pic of a support method that GBS recommended to me and I used all over my car. Works really well, holding stuff firm but allowing some movement. You could use that and attach to the silicon pipe (?) in your pic: https://photos.app.goo.gl/la9vHCG9EKN59xs92 If it's not clear, it's a cable tie through a small piece of fuel pipe.

Looking good... As a caravan owner, the scourge of caravans is water. You may have already thought about this but think hard about preventing water ingress, especially to those wooden battens. I have no idea how you would do this but if you're interested, Bailey have a system called Alutech which might help with ideas: http://www.baileyalu-tech.co.uk

I've got OAT coolant with silicon hoses and not had any problems. However, only been in for 1500 miles so I can't guarantee anything. I'll be mightily hacked off if mine start falling apart any time soon

£200 is very good - mine cost £400 from GBS and that was just the main loom (although with fusebox and relays), not the engine or dash loom (I did them myself)...

Love the Stormtrooper look Interesting place to put your mirrors - did you not want them in the screen supports?

The whole 'sharp edges' thing is a joke - like magh said, if you got hit at any speed high enough where they might be an issue, you'd have a lot more pressing concerns than some scratches; like, 'where's my other leg gone' , etc. That edge on the nosecone? Seriously? It's hardly sharp and so obscured - crazy!

Yup, pretty good result, although I would agree the guy sounds pretty picky - you could have fixed most of them on the spot? What do you mean when you say 'nosecone floorline'? I put trim on the sides of the nose (it actually looks better with the trim on, IMO) but nowhere else. I'm pretty sure my battery cable isn't supported every 300mm - I though that rule was just for brake lines?

Do you know what the dates are? Nothing on their website yet...

Can you book just for one person?

It will be whatever is cheapest - it wasn't an expensive item :-)

Don't worry, it's not a full roof (too expensive) - my Surrey top is on order from SoftBits (they already made it but the wrong size :-(, so it's gone back for a 2nd attempt). I've made wind deflectors but they aren't a huge help and half doors may be fine on the move but I can imagine getting very wet sitting in a traffic jam (based on testing this out by opening my windows in my tin top during heavy rain - you get surprisingly wet). Admittedly, I can see access even with a Surrey top being tricky, especially as I am a bit of a salad-dodger but I don't understand how anyone does without a roof in this country - it can be 30 degC when you leave home and be torrential rain 50 miles down the road. I don't want to have to think about the weather when I go out for a drive...

It's weird - you could book the holiday and just not go on the tour or stay in the hotels, for less than the ferry alone! Or do you have to book a minimum of two people on the holiday?

That's a very good price! I just did a quote for the ferry alone and it came out at £700! Am I missing something?

Thanks but I'm not going to risk it. Fortunately, I've just discovered the wonders of down-filled jackets. It was 4 degC this morning and I was just about comfortable...should be better when I finally get a roof and doors.

Well, took a punt and ordered some cheap ones BUT a no go - my car just didn't like the thing plugged in; idle went to pot, misfiring - undriveable. My gauge showed the normal 13-14v being churned out so I'm not sure what the problem was - any ideas? I'm guessing maybe the ECU didn't like the extra current draw or maybe the volts were actually spiking all over the place (so the damped gauge couldn't show it) and I know the ECU gets upset if volts drop below 11v? Pretty weird experience...

Really? Jesus, I had neither - my testers (and there were 2 because I failed once and had a retest) were useless... :-)

No mention of that at my test (in August) and they couldn't go by my gauge which changes depending on the phase of the moon, I think :-) I needed to use the hex head to remove the diff panel and adjust the handbrake. Also had to use a couple of spanners to release the nut on the accelerator pedal which, 2 miles from the test centre, in 32 degC and after a 2 hour journey through the London rush hour, had expanded and stuck at half-throttle! They weren't interested in any paperwork or photos but then I do seem to have found the laziest test centre ever - highly recommended! :-)

OLD TOPIC but just wondered if there had been any new experiences. My tin top has heated seats and they're lovely in winter. These look to be a bit better than the cheap, £15 versions: https://www.amazon.co.uk/KINGLETING-Cushion-Intelligent-Temperature-Controller/dp/B01LEPPUMM/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1N69CRW80FH2PBHRJDDJ