nelmo

Looks like a show car - I could eat my dinner from that engine bay! Although 5000 miles in 20 years is almost a crime against fun

Very important - they wanted that to allow a current plate. Congrats on the pass...

Nice - mines a bit different

I *think* the wires currently attached to my hydraulic switch go via a relay on the main fuse board (GBS standard loom), so hopefully not an issue? And I've got LEDs....

Yes, my concern was how much they are affected by vibration as our cars are not the smoothest . I'm planning on fixing the location of the reed switch (with a bit of foam backing, maybe?) and then attach the magnet with Silkaflex-type stuff, which will give me time to move it around with the ignition on and pressing the brake pedal...something like that.

£5! The reed switch is £1.50 and the magnet is 60p! OK, I did have to buy a bag of 5 switches... Thanks for the advice but I really like the idea of no moving parts. I'll give it a go first and I can try one of the other methods if it doesn't work out.

Sorry, yes, you need a magnet as well and I can see it being fiddly but with no mechanical involvement, it should be trouble-free for life. I'm assuming I'd just connect wires from the reed switch to the same wires that currently run from my hydraulic switch? I assume that is also just a switch and it enables the circuit to light the brakes? Parts are less than a tenner - might give it a go...

Has anyone ever tried using a reed switch as a brake light sensor? https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/reed-switches/9058910 I currently have the standard hydraulic-powered switch and it's not great; flickers too much and needs decent pressure to come on.

I would have thought that the digital gauge would work if it was calibrated to the correct resistance range of the sender? Might be worth searching for the brand and its manual online? Otherwise, you really need a gauge and sender matched to each other. So you need to work out what sender you have - is it the OEM one for your engine (Ford? Mazda?) and then buy one that will work with it. Might be easier to buy a new gauge and sender together (Car Builder Solutions) and replace the existing sender?

A free, 2.5 hour tour?! Wow, that is impressive in this day and age...nice job!

Another year for a trip with another club I am a member of - write-up and Hollywood-quality video here: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2022/09/deepest-brightest-wales.html

Aw man, I'd love to just try the steak...I once had a 32oz steak and that was hard work

Never heard of Mac1 but that looks like a good quality build. Normally, the only parts specific to a make are bodywork panels - everything else probably came from a donor and so you just need to identify what you need and order another one (ebay, Car Builder Solutions, breakers yards etc).

GBS took over the rights to Robin Hood and are still the best source of RH parts etc. Apart from a new hole in your bonnet on the other side, I think it should be a simple fit.

Kit Spares, the parts arm of GBS, sell an exhaust system for the Zetec - that's where I got mine from: https://kitspares.co.uk/collections/all/products/standard-zero-zetec-exhaust-manifold

Sadly, after 3 or 4 years in the role, I am retiring as the magazine editor in around May next year. As such, this leaves an exciting opportunity for a new editor to make their mark on the unique feature of our club, the magazine. The role 1. Every 3 months (Jan, April, July, September), generate the club magazine (about 15 hours of work). 2. Once a year, invoice the club sponsors for their sponsorship amount. Required Skills 1. Ability to use a desktop publishing suite—I use Microsoft Publisher which is bundled with Microsoft Office (I get mine from work) but if you have anything else, that is fine. Once generated as a PDF, I send this to our printers, along with a list of member addresses, and they print and post the magazines out - nice and simple. 2. Experience with Microsoft Excel, to generate invoices (I have templates) and keep track of sponsors details etc. I will provide a very thorough handover for the new editor and I’ll be available for assistance as I will still remain a member of the club. Please email me (magazine@rhocar.org) or contact me through the forum for more details or to volunteer.

There are 2 schools of thought on this: 1. Swirl pot and HP pump in the engine bay, LP pump in the boot area, near the tank. Some say this risks fuel vapourisation but I've never had a problem and this is how GBS build their cars. 2. Everything in the boot (swirl pot, LP and HP pump). Because of the size of the swirl pot, you will probably need it to be in the actual boot which takes up what little storage space you may have. Also not sure of the risks/downsides of having a HP fuel circuit running through the tunnel and if you'd need a stronger HP pump? But you'll never have issues with hot fuel. I hope that is what you were asking about? If you meant which make etc to buy, not sure there's much choice, is there?

so kind, but I'll pass. I've been thinking of selling my bike as I rarely commute to work any more but every time I go out on it, I realise how awesome it is...and it's a good backup for when my kit breaks, which is a lot.

Personally, I have a policy with AutoAid and they have a Euro option for short breaks, which I will pay for. I've not need to use them yet but they had good reviews (and very cheap).

Well, I've had mine welded up again so hopefully it will be better now with an internal tube and a longer weld down the main fin. But if it goes again, I'll be knocking on your door...

I just don't get trikes at all - all the disadvantages of a bike AND a car (you get stuck in traffic and you get wet), with no upside that I can see Love that Golf - I had an '88 GTi many years ago, my first car that actually had any power! Like the wires hanging under the dash - very kit car like

Why? The best part of a kit is the option to customise to whatever weird thing you want. Fake carbon, blue leather, Union Jack, SpiderMan wrap - the options are endless.... It's not expensive either - I bought a sheet of stuff for about £20...look here, for example.

Someone has suggested maybe putting some sort of rubber mounting when I re-attach this to the MT75 gearbox. At the moment, it's just 4 M10 (?) bolts - anyone suggest what sort of thing I could use - just some rubber/plasticy washers like this maybe? Or these?

Check out the Events sub-forum for things in your area.

I was there in May, a great little museum, very well done. Nice cafe in the middle of town as well.... In fact, I think I parked in that exact spot