Longboarder

My new 3 has peugeot screw in lower balljoints as the pic below. Not what you want I think.

Most later column switches are earth switching in the sierra. For reasons best known to themselves RH?RHE?GBS? did for a while change that but I don't know from when to when or what they do now.The pic below shows how they were in the sierra, switching in the negative circuit, but with the daytime function deleted. The important bit for the main beam warning light which should be common to whatever system is used is the 'supply' to the light should come off one of the main beam wires after it leaves the relay on its way to the headlamp.

So blue main beam warning light never lights and main beam works off the column switch in normal mode but not for daytime flash. Two faults. Warning light takes its feed from one headlight wire after the relay. All later stalks use relays and most builders would have added relays for their early stalks too. Simple circuit to check. Wire from headlamp wire to warning light to earth. Flash not working means wire to terminal 15 not working. Check stalk to see if positive or negative switching.

Sorry but I may have made a wrong assumption. I thought you meant the main beam and I assumed the main beam warning lamp worked OK with the normal lights on and dip/main switch operated but with lights off and just using the flash function you got no flash and no main beam warning light. If that is correct then it's the terminal left 15 wiring. Part numbers of the left column switch begining 83BG require constant live on 15. If later type beginning 87BG, 89BG or anything other than 83BG it's an earth. If that's not correct and I have not correctly described the symptoms correct me please.

Tough call!

Mainbeam flash has one unique wire not involved in the normal use/functions of the lights. On later post 87 stalks it's an earth on L column switch terminal 15. On 83 - 87 stalks it's a constant live to 15 on L column switch. If the lights function as normal in every other respect other than flash then its the wire on terminal 15 that has become faulty/lost//cut/disconnected/etc.

Does sound like too much ignition advance but as you have had the head off cam timing could also be a problem. Also switching to electric fuel pump will get the fuel through to stop that delay and fitting bigger starter and engine earthing cables sounds like a good idea.

Early sierras up to 1987 used a fused supply direct to the washer motor and the column switch operated on the earth return through the switch terminal 53C. After 87 the column switch supplied a switched live terminal 53C again to the washer motor which then returned through an unswitched earth W on the column switch. Combine this with the VG loom and you get a short direct to earth which blows fuses for the washer. Even later RH/RHE/GBS (whichever) tried altering the polarity on the switches but I think that was just for lights.

Sunny Devon is surprise surprise SUUNNNNNNNNNNYYYYYYYY.

Ford were fairly consistent with their wiper terminal numbers. Below pic is sierra, same vintage as your escort stalks, and gives a fair starting point. If you have an old fashioned mini wiper motor with the self park box with five terminals, still on it. If there are just three wires sticking out of the motor you have lost the box. Note terminal 4 needs a live supply. Trad ignition live but could be fused constant live and the wipers will complete a park cycle even if you switch off ignition.

Can't emphasise enough that injectors need an occasional clean. I had mine flow tested after a difficult rolling road session where the tech was getting frustrated with poor results. The best flowed exactly twice the worst and the other two were about in the middle. Lesson learned. Flow test and they will almost certainly need to be cleaned/replaced.

Given up ranting. I was turning into Victor Meldrew. Just back in after a busy day. Grandaughters 9th birthday party and then mine. Family surprised me by having ordered a stretch limo, full razzle in the rear with purple spangley bar, disco lights, two bottles of fizz, belting sounds and an hours trundle round the sights of Plymouth (Dockyard and the Hoe) on the way to the local Steak and Omelet bar. A good time was had by all.

??None of the terminals on a coil go direct to earth. 12v to + or 15 terminal. The other terminal is earthed but only through whatever switching circuit you are using, be it points, ECU etc. To leave it constantly earthed means it is in a steady state and it will happily sit there like a pudding doing nothing to provide a spark.

Might help to heat the bit of pipe to be expanded to red heat and let cool naturally to soften the steel.

The alternator is not producing for some reason. Duff or wired incorrectly?

I melted a pair of toyo888s in one session. Had to drive home midday and get the build wheels with ditchfinder specials to run on. Two bodies in the boot and a passenger is about the best you can do in such a light and high torque car and it still probably won't be enough.

Just goes to show an LED is not better than a tungsten in this situation. One way flow, sensitive to small voltage differences and may not allow enough flow to excite the alternator. Wiring a typical ignition light tungsten bulb in parallel with the LED should work. I can't guarantee the LED won't glow slightly even so, if there are any slightly high resistance wire joins in the circuits. Your right hand circuit is good. Nigel

Can I ask what type, tungsten or LED, warning lights you are using and secondly which functions do you want to have? Please list them. If tungsten bulbs then it's all fairly logical as above. If LED then it's a bit different.

I have seen 45's flooded by a basic facet and gutless with a pressure regulator set too low. They are sensitive to fuel pressure. I would still advise using a pressure regulator fitted close to the carbs. I still carry spare high and low pressure pumps having had both fail on me a total of four times. Carrying a spare low pressure fuel filter is also a good thing, plus changing them every year at least. Incredible how filthy the fuel is in some petrol stations.

Contemplating the opposite change. The Devon and Cornwall corners are approaching to quick for my slowing reflexes these days. On the other hand I might just charge the battery and reset the the rev limiter on the omex to 2000rpm.

Must say I agree with the idea of fitting a nice blacktop 2 litre in place of the 1.8. Caution you not to bother with the ST170. Unless you spend a fair bit more on ancillaries and modifying its not plug and play and generally disappoints.

Many happy returns Bob. Have a wild one with the tonic water! Nigel

Sorry. It was 2008 and I barely remember it. I have dug up an old pic below. I remember I had to use my old rack housing and just change the rack and pinion. Pic shows old and new innards and the housing. The pic reminds me the gear angles were opposite. I don't remember or see a step change in the diameter of the rack at any point either in the old one or the new. My copy of that pic is clearer at 1.5Mb but it's 'shrunk' to post on Rhocar. I'm pretty sure I just modified an old socket to undo the pressure slipper, pulled out the pinion then the old rack and the new rack just pushed straight in. I don't remember a struggle or problem. Hope that helps. Nigel

Mines a quick rack from Rally Design. Very similar. Rack sticks out of it's housing by about two inches each side.

I think I saw these when snapper was doing his many moons ago.