Peter Bell

Sounds like you have a problem with the ignition wiring, Some setups are when cranking the coil gets 12v then when released it goes through a resistor dropping the voltage to 9v, which is the normal operating supply. The resistor may have gone or connection failed. Have you changed any of the wiring? Haven’t rewired the ford connector to the ignition switch by any chance?

Sounds like a fuel supply problem if it starts but then stops. Is your pump working ok, blocked filter?

I think you will find that there is always air showing in those filters, don't worry about it, and yes the mechanical pumps will take a while to pump fuel through after the car has been left for a while. As a plus it does mean that while you are cranking oil is starting to be pumped into the bearings before much load is applied.

Before you reach for the zippo, the standard Sierra brakes will stop a car with 5 passengers etc. comfortably. Your car is nowhere near that weight, could you just refit a servo if you have room, If not you could just fit a smaller master cylinder, I believe the KA ones are 21mm and Sierra 22? so little difference. I think people have fitted 19mm in the past. I had thought about removing the servo on mine but driving with it disconnected was terrifying!

I don't know about these carbs is it like this? With the mechanically operated carbs, Dgav Dgas, its simple to look down the top and when you open the throttle you can watch the butterflies opening. With this style the secondary choke is opened by the vacuum diaphragm system, this will only work when the engine is under load so you can't simply have the engine running while stationary. I had a car (Estelle!) many years ago with a similar carb which would stick shut every now and then, the simple cure was just to manually operate the mechanism a couple of times, so you could try that. Is the choke working ok? look down into the carb when the engine is warm has the choke butterfly fully opened. Don't get too hung up on the jet sizes yet, do you know what is the ignition system fitted? What state are the plugs in after you have been for a run, are they clean, sooty? This one illustrated also has a stepper motor connected to the ESCii module for the idle speed.

Looks like they were fitted with a 30/34 DFTH carb with similar size jetting, the mains may have been swapped, the primary is usually smaller than the secondary. Are you sure the secondary choke is opening with the vacuum system? Info I have is idle jets 45 both mains 112/135 air correction 165/150 emulsion tube F22 both

Has the carb been set up for the different cam? That could be part of the problem.

Have you checked the fuel side? could be a blockage in the system/tank which allows enough fuel for the engine to start and run slowly but not enough to drive it. Is it possible to run the pump into a container and see how much flow you get?

I think it is the fuel pump, as described earlier. The start on easy start will turn the engine over many more times than at cranking speed.

As far as I understand the gearbox is bigger than a type 9 if thats what you currently have, it won't fit straight to the zetec, and the first gear ratio is worse than a type 9. But is has a nice action.

If the handbrake is good for the MOT I suspect it's as Bob says the cylinder size, with the standard Sierra master cylinder the 2l drums are usually overbraked.

That looks very nice! At my last MOT (end of feb, so the testers can laugh at me arriving in the freezing cold rain!) I was told one of my rear brakes was only just good enough so I thought I should look at it. Not very pretty, probably been leaking for years, these are the small 9" drums, early 1.3/1.6 model. I had bought new cylinders and shoes so no problem? I started off by rounding one of the bolt heads holding it on using a 10mm socket, after carefull examination I realised they are 3/8" bolts! managed eventually to loosen them and the brake pipie nut came free quite easily, but was of course corroded to the pipe. I was wondering if I could get a new pipe made up locally, assumed not easily so I sawed the pipe through at the back of the nut, and managed to reflare the tube having fitted the one spare nut I had, the tube being just long enough. Removed the old shoes cleaned everything up and spent quite a lot of time cursing and damaging knuckles getting the handbrake adjuster and springs back in the right positions. Seemed to use up most of the day, just got the other side to do now!

They used to be available at a high price (£90?) but most people cut a hole in the tunnel, then run the cable under the carpet. I'm sure if you do a search on here you will find a few pictures.

Polycarbonate is the usual material, tough, cuts easily but prone to scratching as most plastics.

Well sorry, the Kimbolton show is yet another event cancelled for this year. The proposed date for next year assuming we survive the toilet roll/pasta chaos is 11th July 2021

E bay Does anyone know about this car for sale, it looks quite interesting as it seems to be a 2B with zero rear suspension?

Have you checked if you have a live feed to the fan? The problem I had once was the earth connection to the fan had failed.

Was trying to find a picture of my layout, this is what I found. Not had any problems with MOT but was queried once

To be honest Alan if we get the same spot as the last couple of years as its near the exit there's no real problem about leaving, its a bit out of the main area though. I can see their reasoning, if you are near the entrance and try to drive all the way around through the crowds, (it does get busy!) it could cause problems. They have asked people to abide by this rule in previous years.

Kimbolton show will be 12th of July this year, I’ve been asked if the club wants a pitch again this year. Are there enough people interested? They have sent the following info:- We’re pleased to report that the admission charges remain the same this year at a flat rate of £10 per car. This year, we will once again be posting out wristbands to streamline entry into the show. Wristbands will be distributed to the car club points of contact in early June to provide you with enough time to distribute these to your club, so please let me know if your club will be attending by the end of April. This year, wristbands will again be colour coded to enable our team on the gates to direct you towards the correct parking area quickly and easily. Please make sure your drivers have their exhibitor bands upon arrival, so that our volunteers know to direct you to your club stand, rather than general exhibition parking. Exhibitor wristbands will be sent out one per car and any additional passengers will be required to collect a wristband on the gate when you pay to enter the show. There will not be an additional cost for any additional passengers. Please note: As per new rules implemented by the Council in 2019, ALL CARS NEED TO BE ON SITE BY 11AM AND WILL NOT BE PERMITTED TO LEAVE THE SITE UNTIL THE SHOW CLOSES AT 4PM. Last year, we did have a number of cars trying to leave the show early… this is not permitted by order of the Council that grants us permission to run the show. Please, please, if any of your members are not able to stay until the end of the show, we ask that they park in visitor parking (which they can leave at any time). Cars on the show ground must remain static between 11am and 4pm!

I’ve moved pintos on a skate board just sitting on the sump so you should be fine as long as it’s on a piece of wood. Check you have enough clearance between the bell housing and the tunnel as you lift it.

Heres a couple of pics of mine if it helps, the inside one is the nearside, for us and the outside is the offside! Looks like I never got around to shortening the bolts! But the angle iron is right up against the pinto mounting top hats with a spacer plate underneath. Sorry about the state of them but they must have been on for about 20 years. The tie bars are the original Richard Halfacre ones that are on the Dave Andrews site.

45s shouldn’t be too much of a problem it depends on what size chokes are fitted.

Don’t get too fixated on R1 carbs though they seem to fetch the most money, there are plenty of other suitable bikes available. I have R1s on a Boggs manifold made years ago all still fine.

I assume the cover is touching the roof, can you make up a simple frame to space it off? I do that on a dinghy made a structure with 15mm plastic water pipe and connectors.