fry61

Ian, I have a selection of stainless sheet, but you would need to bend it yourself or have access to some-one who could bend it for you. Florin is mainly stainless which we formed ourselves. We are way down south so maybe too far away. See what the prices are from GBS & then maybe give me a nod on my e-mail sylvia.fry2@btinternet.com

Happy birthday to our ex-fireman Steve. Retirement is boring --- so they say; not if you know how to swing a spanner.

Happy birthday to our young son --- David S --- keep on strumming mate.

5 Watt 12 volt lamp & connected to IGNITION LIVE -- its purpose is to energise to alternator coils --- it will (should) go out as soon as the alternator is producing more than 12 volts

As Alan said & your picture shows --- ignition live to warning lamp ( 5 watt tungsten filament "bulb" (( american )) or lamp ) to B. Ignition on -- lamp should light --- fire up engine -- lamp goes out & voltage to battery should be close to 14 volts. It's no good using a LED -- not enough current flow to get the alternator excited.

Original Robin Hood 2B rear light assembly -- & 2 rubber mounting wedges Stop-tail & indicator. free to any one who would like a spare if collected from Hants area.

The new Morgan is £78,000 ---- looks like a Dutton so may qualify.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder ---- some-one pre- kit car said. There are plenty of kits & body cut & shuts which don't meet with approval of many -- it doesn't make it wrong --- just different & different is down to personal choice. I don't like it --- but that is personal --- the builder liked it enough to spend many garage hours on his creation --- didn't pan out as hoped which might be why it's for Sale. BUT HE DID TRY to realise his dream --- all too easy to sit back & do nothing.

Oh so true Kevin, traffic lights & hail stones are a very poor mix.

Easily done Jim, A piece of caravan awning rail fixed to the top of windscreen, several fibre-glass tent rods, some string & the material of choice. Without a surrey you will not go far & stay dry ( almost dry ) We have had some right down pours in France & kept fairly dry under our cover -- sewn up by Mo on a 50 year old sewing machine ( bought for her when she was ???? old )

If you haven't already gone to spend your pennies ------------------ it just needs a filament lamp connected in parallel with your "nice little light cluster". Then hide this extra lamp under the dash. ( could be on passenger side foot-well to give a little illumination for your other half's entrance/exit.

Just try changing the LED for a tungsten filament lamp -- only needs to be around 5 watts --- it should go out when the engine is running on tick-over or just above (1,000 rpm ) Also check you have a good earth to the alternator body ( use a test lamp or a meter )

I believe LED's are not suitable ---- the "Ignition lamp" in the olden days was there to give a small feed to the alternator to excite the beastie into producing current; once current (& voltage ) were being made the lamp went out due to equal voltage on both sides of the lamp. LED's just don't have a low enough resistance to supply the alternator with a start current. With Florin I have an LED on the dash but have a tungsten filament lamp ( hidden under the dash ) connected in parallel to provide the start current.

Faulty auto-park? Is it possible to disconnect the permanent feed ( via ing ) from the motor temporally?

It will be in the post on Monday, Dale.

Can do Dale, just e-mail your full address to sylvia.fry2 @btinternet.com

Smaller bore to reduce pedal effort ,Jim.

What colour is it? We have off-cuts in black which we made our surrey from.

Buy new ---- Odyssey PC68 is sat in Florin's boot & around £80.00 when purchased --- supposed to last about 5 years --- ours is 7 years old now. S/hand is an unknown life left.

Florin's wipers are 2 speed & intermittent --- using the Ford Sierra column switch & wiper relay connected to a MINI 2 speed & park wiper motor ( plus rack & wiper boxes ) Nigel's ( Longboarder ) wiring diagram for the connections will supply the details of what goes where --- mine are long gone. Should find Nigel's old post on here.

Also a very good cure for roof bars humming ---

If you are not using your kit very often Neil it could just be rust on the discs /no rust where pads are. Does the vibes lessen after a few miles/brake use?

Still worth a try, Paul was "gamekeeper turned poacher " & did all our IVA paperwork in 2011. A very good service from him, saved all the hassle of filling the right forms.

Don't suggest others adopt your driving attire, Mark.

Try wiring in a temporary lamp earlier in the loom , should be able to see which part is giving the poor/non contact .