Foz

Both Adrian Flux and Heritage support the club so it's worth giving them a call and asking the question.

I don't know of any build manuals but this might help

It's not uncommon for Sierra stalks to play up, especially if they haven't been used for a while. Switch cleaner often cures them. It's well worth getting hold of a Haynes manual for the Sierra, there's usually a few on eBay for reasonable money. I've attached a copy of wiring details up to 1987 which might help, items 94 &102 are the stalks. Good luck, Steve Wiring.pdf

Hi Roberto, The kit for your 2B was supplied by Robin Hood Sports Cars who were eventually bought up by GBS - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robin_Hood_Engineering The 2B required quite a lot of input from the builder to make the kit in to a car so you are unlikely to find 2 the same however, I think most of the nosecones should be the same (assuming it is an original Robin hood one). GBS supported the 2B for a number of years and so they would be the best people to ask how easy it is to fit a Zero grille in to a 2B. Sorry if this isn't a straight answer but hopefully it helps. Steve

I'm not sure you're going to get any updates in the near future, Ant_Harvey hasn't been on the site since June 3rd. If you've got any questions shout 'em up - chances are somebody on here will have some answers. Steve

Hi George, Have a read through this post :- Hopefully it will give you a few answers to your question. Steve

The pinto in my 2B had a CR of about 10:1 and ran nicely with a Kent FR32 set at 108 degrees. As they are all balanced I suspect your low compression figure may be a red herring, I think I got a compression figure around 13 bar (190ish psi) but I had Webers not bike carbs and its easy to open them fully. Have you tried what Trev suggested ?

Does it run any better now or are you still having the same problems ?

Hi Steve, I'm just finishing off the latest edition of the club mag. & I'll happily stick a little article in for you - it might help. If you want to PM me with any info. you have & maybe photos ? Steve

I've had problems with distributors in the past where the body of the distributor doesn't make good contact with the engine block (normally due to a bit of corrosion), and also there is usually a flexible wire from the points (sensor) mounting plate, connecting it to the body of the dizzy, which I have seen broken. A quick resistance check from the mounting plate in the dizzy to the negative of the battery should read pretty much short circuit - if it does then all's good and ignore my ramblings

Interference often happens when you've got a bad earth somewhere, trouble is it can be a real pain to find. I'd check any ground connections you can find. Don't forget the dizzy itself, you should have a good ground from it all the way back to the battery -ve but I've often found some resistance between the points (or module) and the block. Of course, now that I've said that it will probably be something totally different

Hi there, where abouts are you? - stick your location on your profile and somebody close might be willing to come and have a look at it with you (for tea and biscuits of course). Also it might help if you can post up any drawings or pictures you have to help explain what you have. Hopefully some folks on here will have a few ideas for you to try.

It is possible to get the cambelt out one or 2 teeth on a pinto and it will still run, although not too well - don't ask how I know It's worth checking the cam timing to make sure it's correct.

Definitely odd to have low but even readings - did you do the compression test with the throttle wide open ? Closed throttles can give a low reading.

Welcome to you all, it's that time of year for tinkering and winter projects so let us know what you're up to - so we can copy all the good ideas . Steve

I had a different set up but I think the same theory would apply to yours. I had 2 velcro straps that went round the top of the roll bar and round the horizontal part of the hood frame - pull them as tight as you need to hold the frame in place and get the hood taut. Luggage straps or similar would do the same job I think.

Depending on exactly where you are in Derbyshire you may be closer to this meet or to Richy who meets up at the Malt Shovel Pub, Coventry Road, Coventry, CV7 7HL, on the last Wednesday of the month. You can, of course, come to either or both if you wish. It's getting late in the year now and there won't be too many kits cars present unless we have some very warm evenings but we'll normally be there in "normal" cars. Steve

It's a few years since I did this on my 2B and I have been thinking of doing the same on the cobra but, unfortunately, I can't remember all the details myself . What I can remember is :- The master cylinder was from a Mk1 KA. It was a black tubular steel thing with 3 outlets and (I think) 19mm bore. Looking around these don't seem so common now although there are lots of the cast aluminium type which may well do the job, but I don't know what bore size they are. As far as I can remember, I just drilled 2 new holes through the pedal box & bulkhead for the fixing bolts and simply bolted it on, centred on the original servo mounting position. I lashed up a piece of M8 threaded bar with a couple of nuts as a push rod and adjusted the nuts to get the correct length/pedal position. I then made a new push rod from a length of 10mm round bar based on these dimensions. Hope this helps - if I remember anything else I'll let you know. Steve

Not the biggest gathering last night but myself and Ian braved the weather - neither of us in our kit

Yes, I didn't really get wet much at all, it was the passenger side that got flooded - good job my wife wasn't with me

I'll be there, barring disasters, but maybe not in the cobra.

It was glorious sunshine when I left Newark on Saturday but by the time I got to Nottingham it had clouded over. By Derby the sky was black and I stopped to put the hood up. By Uttoxeter it was well and truly wet, I was down to about 25mph and could hardly see the road. The engine was spluttering more each minute and the passenger side was filling up with water. Despite this I did, somehow, make it home with the engine finally giving up as I pulled into the drive. I spent a good few hours yesterday getting the water out of just about everywhere, including the air filter, distributor and ignition module. There was a good inch of water in the passenger footwell - above the carpets, which are currently in the greenhouse dripping. Even the bag of sweets in the glovebox was full of water. I've attached a short clip from the dashcam to prove that cobras can swim ! Hopefully I'll get it dried out ready for next year A50+water.mp4

I've just seen the latest weather and it looks like Sunday might get a bit wet. I'll be there on Saturday so hopefully I've picked the drier day

Have a look at this post -

Great day thanks - I hope you've got pictures ..................................... of the seagull strike