Foz

Yep, similar story here. I had a 30L tank in mine with a 2L pinto engine which does close to 30mpg if you drive very gently. I could never manage to properly fill the tank and was usually looking at filling up after 100 miles. I recently had a new tank made (to my drawing) which holds about 40 litres and I can now fill it. Did a 200 mile round trip to Stoneleigh the other week and still had fuel left when I got home.

Have you got air filters on the carbs? If you have I'd make sure they're clean, or better still, I'd leave them off for the MOT.

As Alan says ........... It looks like you've got a pinto engine and type9 gearbox, but not the sierra pedalbox. Tighten the outer of the cable up a bit until there is just a tiny bit of slack on the inner and you should be back in business.

I think GBS will sell you everything to build a zero but, like Westfield, it won't be cheap.

It sounds like the clutch cable is not correctly adjusted - if you've got the sierra pedal box it should auto adjust so you'll need to check that the quadrant mechanism is OK. If you've got something different it may have a manual adjustment. Post what sort of clutch set up you've got and somebody will probably be able to give a better answer. Where abouts are you? there may be someone near to you willing to have a look for tea and biscuits !! Steve

I originally had 20.6mm bore cylinders on the back of my 2B (from the Sierra). When one of them started weeping I replaced them both with 22mm. Theoretically it should give slightly more pressure to the rear brakes but really it didn't make a great deal of difference and the fronts always lock first if I stand on the pedal.

Don't think we'll be able to stop over but hopefully we can make if for the day too. Steve

RIP Bob, I only met him a couple of times but it always felt as if I'd known him for years. Our condolences to his family, particularly Sylvia. Steve & Yvonne

I think a large proportion of them have been made up by whoever built the car. As long as it was stamped correctly, in the right places I think SVA testers were happy. Steve

Just another thought - I had spacers and metalwork under my seat runners which all worked fine but I later found out that when I fitted the hood my head was touching it and then I also realised that my head was above the roll bar. I now have the seats lower, with metalwork under the floor. I guess it all depends how tall you are and what seats you have, but it's maybe worth checking before you finally fix everything in position. Steve

Kit spares sell Gaz coil-overs for the 2B - https://kitspares.co.uk/collections/suspension/products/2b-shock-absorber-set I had to replace my rears last year. If you have a chat with them they'll tell you sizes etc. to make sure you get the right ones. Steve

Hi Leslie, My 2B costs me a little over £100 per year for comprehensive cover, me & my daughter named drivers, mileage limited to 3000, agreed value etc. I'm with Graham Sykes - at that price I have it insured all year and we can the drive it whenever we want. Steve

Hi Andy, welcome to the club. I had one of these on my 2B and it always leaked when you accelerated hard. I re-sited mine and replaced it with one from Car Builder Solutions - www.carbuilder.com It's worth having a look on their website, they might do something that will fit with minimal modifications. Steve

Hi Clive, I have modified struts on my 2B now, but I don't remember having any issues with the originals, at least not like you're describing. Can you post some pictures and someone will probably be able to figure out what's going on. Steve

Hi Alan, I'm using Firefox as well and it's all present and correct on mine too. Steve

Thanks for the reply - I'm still up for me & daughter on the Sunday, hopefully with some company! Steve

I cannot tell a lie - I forgot all about this (it's my age you know!) Do we have a club stand, is anyone else going and, if so, am I too late to book ? Steve

Got any easier questions ?? I'm not an expert on this but I would have thought it must have passed SVA to have been registered as a Robin Hood in 2002. I would also think that seeing as it is registered correctly, you probably don't need to worry about it. Mine passed SVA in 2006 and has a 6 digit number on the V5 in the Type Approval - but I've no idea what that number relates to! Anyway, welcome to the club, and hopefully someone on here will have the answers for you. Steve

I'm hoping to make it on the Sunday, fingers crossed & all that ! Steve

I really fancy this, probably me & daughter on the Sunday. I'll see what I can sort out and hopefully confirm in a few days. Steve

Yes, as far as I know, Robin Hood started selling the Sub K kit in 2001 - assuming that this car is a Sub K then it must have been built in 2001 or later. Just to make things more confusing - the Sub K became known as the 2B/04 from 2004 - the seller describes the car as a 2B so, it might be a 2B/04 from 2004 or later. From what you are saying about registration in Germany I think you would need to get some confirmation of when it was actually built. The suspension is not a straight swap between generations. but anything is possible with them. The cost and the work involved would probably make it impractical to do any major changes unless you wanted something to keep you busy over winter ! Hope this helps, Steve

Hi Jonas, This looks like a Sub K to me, if so the kit would have been sold in 2001 or later, but the Sierra donor car may well have been a 1987 model. The quality of these cars is really dependant on how well they were built. You need to check the quality of the workmanship and make sure that the kit was built well, particularly things like brakes, steering and suspension. I don't know a great deal about the Sub K but I'm sure other people on here will be able to tell you of any weak areas on these models. Best regards, Steve

My 2B has two M12 bolts through each side. 1 through the centre of the rubber bush (although I've now removed the bush and made it solid), and a second about 60mm further back, both going through the corner plate of the chassis. I'm not sure how this relates to a 3A but I reckon M12 bolts should hold things together OK.

I found this page in the Weber manual which is generic for their carbs. I had to read it several times before it made any sense to me, but I think it answers your question. Have a read and see what you think. Steve Carb.pdf

I've just found this sales brochure in with my 2B stuff - I've never seen a real one though. Kaig.pdf