IanS

Not mentioned yet, but all the relevant bits of government information came be accessed through the following site. https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-approval/individual-vehicle-approval Have fun with the build.

Have you tried a push start?

It has been a very sunny day here if a bit windy. So possibly just climate change

Are we talking about DGV32/36 (might be DGAV32/36)? If so these are primary/secondary carbs where the smaller chock (primary) opens first and then when larger amounts of power are required the larger (secondary) choke opens. These carbs do not need balancing.

Is the sensor long enough to be fully in the oil rather than mostly in the drain bolt.

What bonnet have you got? The early 2Bs had the alligator bonnet that incorporated the nosecone bonnet scuttle and windscreen in one unit that hinged from the back on 2 bolts. Later cars had fixed nosecone and scuttle with a lift off bonnet secured by 4 clips one in each corner. A picture or 2 could help.

If you are after DCOE webbers for a bit more power then go to Dave Andrews site. http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/ It has some information on modifying pintos written 30 years ago but still relevant.

Yes locknuts go the other way round. The action of locknuts is to force the nuts apart as they are tightened against each other. So the nut that is away from the load is taking the load and the force from the other nut. The nut towards the load has the force on it reduced by the load and therefore can be a thinner nut.

Looks like a RH shock. It is assembled withe the main adjuster nut the wrong side of the lock nut. Lock nut should be toward the load, main nut away from load. You should be able to wind the adjuster nuts far enough down to release all compression in the spring provided that it is not all rusted solid.

The sender units changed a bit over the years and a bit by trim level spec of the car up to the major change with EFI units. Mostly this was things like having more than the basic spec to having fuel low light, MPG display etc. The basic fuel guage function remained the same and the other bits can probably be ignored.

Nice looking car. Kits are about making the car yours, no 2 the same hopefully. Just a warning about mud flaps especially on the front, be very careful about reversing up kerbs as flap trapped between wheel and kerb has been known to rip wing off.

Machine guns forward and caltraps behind

Gel coat is the yellow on the outside of your mudguard. Light grey is just paint on the inside.

One thing to check is that the donor V5 has the correct engine number. It can be corrected whilst the donor exists but could cause problems later if it is wrong due to the donor having had a replacement engine in the past.

I have used polybush in the past. https://www.polybush.co.uk/ email the the dimensions and they could supply.

https://www.diydirect.com/screwless-hinges-male-female-2-pack?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAire5BhCNARIsAM53K1jjMuOzbCLLxxOSa9VtLPixDUqOUBK_D2S-Fh_-6yVoyNFL4-Te_IAaAhK_EALw_wcB These appear to be your hinges. If so they screw in and presumably out.

Alternators ground through their mounting. It is worth checking that there is no paint or corrosion on the mounting points both the bracket to the alternator and bracket to engine block. If the car starts then the engine return to the battery is good or the starter would not get enough current. If the rectifier in the alternator has a diode gone it can put out a lot of noise. The thick cable takes the charging current to the battery. The thin cable normally goes to the ignition light on the dash board. The fact that the engine revs to 2K before the alternator kicks in shows a problem as the alternator should start charging below 600RPM engine speed. This could be down to the alternator having the wrong bulb in the dash or a wiring error or internal problems in the alternator.

The vast majority on modern 4 and 6 cylinder engines use wasted spark and use the same plugs in all positions. The makers just expect owners to replace the plugs more often. The platinum plugs ford fitted originally are not cheep but will last a long time.

Hood repairs are doable. Easy depends on appearance after the repair. I have glued and sewn a patch on the inside, from the outside the repair can be seen but it keeps the rain out. From the inside it is obvious.

Thread on fordownersclub. It appears Henry installs the two types of plugs when the engines are supplied new, it's something to do with the wasted spark ignition, and there is a correct position for each type, being: Timing belt end P1 / PG1 / P1 / PG1 Special thanks go to Jonathon Kay for his BM and link to www.fordownersclub.com

There is a problem of dates here as the Exmo kit was produced in 96 to 97. If you built in 86 it was probably a triumph based kit.

The plug has the same fitting and will fire the near enough the same. It is one heat range hotter so at full power it might have problems but at low to medium power it could be used to see if this is the problem. APR6FS is the recommended plug for 2l Pinto engines.

Yes I assumed that there would be a suppressed version. APR6FS could be used to prove that this is the problem.

You could try APR7FS.

what spark plugs are you using? ones with a resistor have R as part of there part number. For instance on my pinto engine I use NGK APR6FS which has a R as part of the code. The resistor acts to reduce interference. I understand that the AccuSpark leads are resistive. resistive.