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Everything posted by brumster

  1. Assuming it's not some ginormous fuse/capacitor, presumably a dump valve of some description ?
  2. No, before that, I'm trying to remember when mine was but it was an early chassis before the arched rear wing chassis tubes and the supporting plate for the top rearward wishbone at the front (amongst many other things). Fairly sure it was 2010/2011.
  3. Early Zero's are pretty bad, the powder coating wasn't up to scratch. Mine is showing rust already (I bought it off ebay as an unstarted project, so it's an old chassis in that sense even though it was only put on the road 2 years ago, at which point it was all fine bar some blemishing on the roll-over hoop). I'm fine with it; GBS told me as much, they advised I got it stripped and re-powder-coated as the early cars were known to be bad. I chose not to, it defeated the point of getting the chassis cheap and would have made more sense to buy a brand new one!
  4. Just in case you're not joking/misunderstood me..... what I meant was, the plasma cutter I have draws something like 18A so it can't be wired to a 13A plug at all, it needs the old 32A "blue" industrial sockets and a dedicated wired supply...
  5. Just to forewarn you, check the details on it but it's unlikely to run off a 13A plug handy kit but cutting straight, pretty lines is.... errm.... rather difficult! I chopped up an Exmo with one, made my life sooooo much easier!
  6. The IVA doesn't check tracking as such (not to any specific specification), so you can set it to whatever is your personal preference. As a general principle (but this really is very generic, as the whole aspects of suspension setup encapsulate camber, castor and so forth as well as toe-in/out), toe-in is 'safe' approach that gives stability, toe-out would be more typical on FWD cars or things that were looking for more directional change.... and parallel is, well, in the middle... ie safe. But it also depends greatly on how the toe changes during driving. On a FWD car it can move under power but I think, on our type of cars, it's more stable. For that reason I'd suggest parallel or slight toe-in to start with. One side point - it won't really contribute *that* much to self-centering, on the Exmo I'd look more at your castor for that. The Exmo setup is quite bad for it and there's not really a lot of adjustment in there; the exmo has quite a nasty over-centre feel to it on extreme lock.
  7. Well on my Zero I just did the flap + sealant thing. I think if you was set on shaping them, then the bottom aluminium frame should bend into shape with a bit of heat but the glass I would be getting cut by a specialist. Seems a whole load of hassle to have an odd-shaped windscreen !
  8. Not sure he really had in mind spending that much
  9. Further to this, he's identified it's just the tail casing, that's all he needs. If anyone has one kicking about...
  10. Watch for high hours if buying second hand. 1 year of mowing is probably about 25 to 50 hours depending on how much you're cutting. I had two trains of thought given my budget - by a high-end brand 2nd hand (Honda, John Deere) or buy a cheaper brand new. In the end I took the latter and picked up a Cub Cadet at a good discount (they are basically MTD/Lawnflite). Mulch versus Collect : think about what you need. If you're doing lawns you probably want a dedicated collector. If large amounts of fields, mulch. The downside with collectors is you need somewhere to dump it all! You can get mowers that'll do both - mine is primarily a collector but you can put a mulch plug in the back if you want. Very handy. And the collector can be used to vac up leaves in autumn too. Westwood/Countax are expensive for that "roller" effect broom on the back, only really for formal gardens and lawns but if you've got uneven ground/fields/etc then don't bother. Hydrostatic drive; don't touch anything less (belt/gear driven) There are bells and whistles that you pay through the nose for - electric grass box emptying, electric deck height adjustment, cut-in-reverse, etc. They are largely all expensive fluff and doing without them is no hardship, it really is no time at all to reach behind and manually dump the cuttings, or reach down to the side and lift/lower the deck. And manual means less to go wrong and easy to fix yourself. Otherwise obvious stuff - check comfort/seat, cutting width suits what you need to get around in your garden. If you're cutting thick stuff you probably want to go up to a larger V-twin/Briggs & Stratton engined option or you'll be doing multiple passes. Likewise, don't buy bigger than you need or you'll just be burning petrol for the sake of it.
  11. You're on about fixed 3 point harnesses, not inertia-type belts like in production cars (doesn't really apply to our types of cars) right? I get the focus on racing/etc but it's not something the average joe on the road really needs to worry about. In our types of cars, you have to be pragmatic for the general types of users we have; I guess 95% of sales are to road users. An inertia reel isn't practical because of the car design (you could get the mount up on the rollover hoop, sure, if GBS were that way inclined) but I'd probably err more on the side of strapping myself in so I don't come out. Submarining or not, I think if an impact was that serious in our little tin cans you'll be waving goodbye to your legs pretty quickly, whether it's a 3, 4 or 20 point harness :). A frontal is probably not too bad because there's a heck of a lot of front crumple (ie. the entire chassis forward of the bulkhead) but anything remotely side-on, or something that splits a chassis tube and had it poking into the passenger compartment.... I think the least of your worries is "damn it, I wish I had a crotch strap to stop me sinking forward" Just wouldn't want people worrying over nothing, or at least putting it into context. The guys who popped their testiles out thanks to a 6 point are probably very annoyed about it, sure, but I bet they're glad they were wearing something more than a 3-point intertia reel !! edit: I should say, you're totally right, a badly-adjusted harness is going to do next to nothing, and at least that's the one good thing about a 3 point, it's less prone to incorrect adjustment. I have an issue with the GBS/TRA lap straps, they constantly loosen, I was speaking to TRS at Autosports about swapping my harness for ones with reversed lap straps with motorsport adjusters on them... bugs the hell out of me
  12. Can you elaborate? I get the anti-submarining idea of a 5 point (although I'd argue for a road car we're getting a bit over the top), but 3? How is it better?
  13. They're typically used on wire rope/cable for suspending fixtures and fittings. I think if you search around that you'll probably have more success. Quick google : https://www.tecni.uk/wire-rope-fittings https://www.tecni.uk/6mm-Stainless-M8-RH-Jaw-Tensioner-Fitting-160.800.060
  14. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ701.html ?
  15. brumster


    In my experience most Emerald maps I've seen are very conservative on the startup fuel map and enrichment. Assuming your throttle bodies are all balanced and in correct adjustment, I'd look at the startup enrichment and also the ignition map. I'm sure you'll be happy fiddling around with the laptop making a few tweaks here and there ;). A good way to see if it's that is to just up the fueling on the base map temporarily at the startup load sites (zero throttle, <1500rpm) and see if it suddenly improves... obviously don't keep the changes, but at least you quickly prove it's not getting enough fuel. Otherwise do the same with the ignition map. Given your location, if you get real stuck, you're welcome to meet up and I'll help
  16. I would love to but looks like we'll need to spend the weekend prepping a house for tenants play it by ear with us but make us an "unlikely"... sorry
  17. If you get really stuck/GBS won't sell you one.... https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/aluminium/channel
  18. Back in the warm here too! Car wash can wait until tomorrow <brrrr>
  19. Bell/text me in the morning if you like, if it's just the two of us we can wing it there and then and figure out where we're going....
  20. I'm up for a little run out - can't be too long, say a couple of hours maximum... run out somewhere for lunch and back?
  21. We have noise tests to adhere to when competing and these generally state 100dB ~ 4500rpm, half a metre away from the exhaust tip (45 degrees). I don't know how sound dissipates with distance, obviously it does, so I guess that 74dB is a kind of pointless number without the context of distance being applied. "What did Europe ever do for us" etc etc <joking, before you all get on your Brexit high horse!>
  22. My motorbike is 100dB and that's on the manufacturers exhaust !? WTF?!
  23. Yeah, definitely not a 2B; looks like a Mk.1 S7 (sierra based)
  24. Yup... https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=41972&p=335327 Not sure if he's still around...
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