brumster

On the power thing, let's be honest, it could be an utter plethora of things and an internet forum is just going to throw you all sorts of potential problems and things to investigate the devil will be in the detail, particularly how you describe the issue and whether you miss minor details (not intentionally) or include stuff that's unrelated. There's nothing quite like having the car in front of you; everyone will have different approaches. Systematic investigation/diagnosis, step by step, rule stuff out rather than trying to hit the nail on the head first time... If it just flats off at 2500rpm under load with no pull, the carb thing does sound a good first bet (my knowledge on Pintos is minimal to be fair). Maybe start there, fair does, but it could be so many other things around ignition/cam timing, fueling, electrical breakdown in the ignition, yada yada

Good luck! You'll be fine, looks well put together. Treat the first IVA visit as an "OK, it's going to fail, let's get a list of what needs doing" and then plan for the quick re-test shortly after. If it passes first time, double bonus

Ah ok, apologies, it was hard to see the perspective in the picture of how far away the key was from the wheel edge. As long as you're within that 13cm you'll be fine then. Good news on the vents - couldn't see them, that's all. And provided you're steering wheel edges are 2.5mm radiused you should be fine

Well looking at that pic and being as strict as I can be (ie. worst case; please forgive me!) I would feed back : Rear view mirror not permanent; will definately fail Can't make out radius on centre of steering wheel and bolt heads but could be an issue, certainly doesn't look very soft! Ignition key will fail I can't see any demister vents to the screen, unless the screen is heated electrically maybe? Otherwise looks pretty good, assume all the windscreen edges and dash are radiused edit: you should probably start your own thread, save us cluttering up daniel's

I think it's fair to say the Kidderminster tester "went to town" on me, and was very thorough, but he was entirely fair and there was flexibility in terms of tinker time to adjust things - no-one was expecting the headlamps to be perfectly aligned for example, or the speedo calibration being spot-on. But any value, measurement, distance, angle, etc was measured and verified against the regulations. I don't suspect he'd be worried over a mm here or there. But when building the car, don't put stuff anywhere near the limit anyway - ie. indicator distances from edge, play it safe, come a good couple of cm further out than you need to, to avoid any "near misses" on IVA day

All I can say is Kidderminster was very specific on checking the wipers - they carefully checked it was 2 speed, and the speed difference.

Aye, sounds good.... ref:

The other thing you might want to consider at the same time, is changing the sweep angle, there are alternative angles available assuming you have a Lucas wiper motor (mini/land rover)... depends how you find yours. I spent time getting the wipers right and it makes so much difference when you are caught out in the rain - last year's Wales trip jumps to mind, and for the first time I was quite comfortable driving along in the rain and the dark with wipers that actually cleared a useful portion of the screen! https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/14w-wiper-drive-gear/

What's happening with this then, it's gone very quiet we were chatting at Stoneleigh about it...

I've treated myself to some Intratrim seats for the Zero so my existing seats are up for sale - available in the next 4 to 6 weeks. They are Westfield seats (but unbranded), called the "Sport" seat, in black and dark navy blue vinyl. Excellent condition (not used much!) and on runners. They are honestly a very nice, quality-made and comfy seat, with good side support. Material all intact, no tears/rips/etc. Since they fit in Westfields, let alone a non-GT Zero, I think it's safe to say they will fit into ANY Robin Hood/GBS without any issue !! I could say £300 ono but in reality let's just say £250 no offers

That price is criminal

Thanks jhfozzy, that's what I was after. Supply not a problem; house has had a rewire and I've factored in a dedicated circuit to the necessary requirements. Way more than 5kW !

Anyone here got experience of induction hobs in comparison to gas? Someone who used to use gas, moved to or tried induction - what is your experience? I know I can read articles and watch plenty of Youtube videos that say it's the next best thing since sliced bread, and I do kind of think it probably is, but I'd still like to here some practical experiences from someone who tried it. What do you prefer? The advantages are all fairly obvious; any downsides other than having to swap your pans if they're not ferrous, and potential scratching/damaging of the surface if you're not careful... edit: I should add, as a life-long user of gas, I utterly *hate* cooking on ceramic or halogen hobs, I find it nigh on impossible. I am hoping/understanding that induction is NOTHING like ceramic/halogen! Right?

magh, drop me a PM with your email and I can send you lots of material on type 9 rebuilding

Type 9's are very easy to work on. The only specialist tool I needed (which I made) was some levers to pop the rear bearing out of the casing but if that's not your issue, it's not something you'll need to worry about. Even then, they're only a pair of bent metal rods . If you can follow a haynes manual/step-by-step guide you'll be fine don't be put off.

Unless he's modified it and put a drain point in, that's going to be difficult with a type 9

I couldn't say on a 2B, to be honest, not something I'm au fait with. I'm sure someone else will comment. Can you get to the top cover on the gearbox at all without taking it out? If you could pop it off and get a look in there, maybe even with a borescope? If it's something really obvious it might show up. Even if it's just looking at the fluid and finding lots of sparkly bits in it

Thanks also from me to the usuals (Dean, Matt, Rich, Stu, Keith & partners) for their hard work in putting it all together. Stoneleigh as a show seems to be... errm... "changing", I think, is a polite way of putting it without being negative!

5th is in a separate aluminium casing on the back of the main box so it could explain why the noise disappears when in 5th, but it's kind of odd that just pushing the clutch down makes it go away. I wonder if pressure from the clutch is moving the input shaft just enough that whatever is graunching gets enough pressure on it for the noise to go away. I was going to say clutch release bearing but when you said it goes away in 5th that makes no sense Inspect inside the bellhousing just for any unusual signs but I suspect it will indeed be gearbox out and pop the top cover off, should be fairly obvious to anyone who's stripped a box before. Probably a bearing gone and due to shaft movement backwards to forwards, you're running a gear against something it shouldn't be hitting :). Probably slowly wearing away part of the casing, selector or something. Don't go too far with it like that until you've figured out what it is! Check the clutch release bearing anyway, I can't really explain why the noise would go away in 5th but fingers crossed it might just be that, they can certainly be noisy when they've gone but the noise normally relates to pedal pressure on the clutch rather than engine speed or gears...

Techcraft silencer here, they are well respected in the Locost racing scene as (i) they meet the noise requirements and (ii) are sturdy and repackable.

You can get to IVA pass levels without the need for a dyno; an MOT gas analyzer will tell you all you need to know. Obviously you need a local garage who's happy to either let you use it while you tune (if you know your way around the mapping aspect) or who is happy to make the adjustments for you, but... But a rolling road trip isn't a bad idea of course; still worthwhile. Just make sure your rolling road tester knows what you're asking for. A lot of the time they are more focused on getting power numbers than emissions !

Sound pressure level, you're sorted

I'm up for it too, but can't commit to a ticket this early, but unless there's any surprises heading my way consider me there...

I can't contribute much but I would ask/question where you got 3deg of negative camber from, because that sounds like a LOT !?

Rich, +3 attending here please.