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Everything posted by brumster

  1. Tickets are Fri-Sunday only, plus wednesday nights if there's one of their special-interest nights going on. Basically, in the week is fine to just turn up and pay on entry. I was thinking a Tuesday or a Thursday myself
  2. Never did anything like that on my build so I wouldn't worry - no garage inspection necessary. That's what the IVA is for! Maybe the letter is thinking it's for people who are re-stamping a car that has had a replacement chassis installed? I would say just stamp the plate, affix yourself as above, and at the IVA the inspector will check the VIN and details/etc and job is a good'un.
  3. If anyone wants a drive out to Caffeine & Machine I'd be up for it. One week night, maybe nothing too official that we end up swamping the place with cars, just a few of us meeting up maybe (at socially-distanced tables outside of course)... play it by ear with the weather?
  4. Hmmm, fluid doesn't really work like that. You'll limit *flow* not pressure. I'm not sure a simple valve will have the effect you desire; it might affect pedal rate - which I know is what you want for the back brakes, but might end up stopping you from applying quick brake pressure at all, including the front, with disastrous consequences! I would check carefully this approach before you take it... there is more to these 'proper' brake proportioning valves than just a tap
  5. Oh god yes, definitely front-to-back, that's the whole principle of how it works! In the Sierra it was on the (left?) chassis leg, at an angle but definitely front-back running!
  6. Not a bad idea, given you're through IVA. I used to have one of these on a competition car with a standard pedal box : https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/tilton-screw-type-proportioning-valve-243412/ Did the trick, allowed me a bit of adjustment. Your valve, is it mounted identical to the Sierra, ie. at a slight angle? I was always told the angle was very important as it determined the operational behaviour, but I couldn't say if that's true or not (seems plausible). Or maybe it's just knackered? How about removing it temporarily, joining the pipes with a suitable length of "union", and taking it back and seeing how it looks and behaves - before you go investing...?
  7. Those plates don't ring a bell, they sound like something one-off...? But, sounds like you're on top of it anyway
  8. I would start with the Sierra-based P100 although I wonder if it ever changed in the time between the Cortina-based one and the Sierra. The parts I suspect are probably the same. A trip to a friendly Ford dealer/parts department should tell you pretty quickly take the old one with you...
  9. I'm not sure 'strengthening' issues on the Exmo are a cause for IVA compliance concern, although that's not to say they're not serious, just that IVA won't spot them - you'll just notice after a few thousand miles when bits start to crack :). The main bits were the strut tops which, with the default arrangement, started to punch through/bend the top of the "butresses". And the rear diff mount, RH provided an extra plate to thicken up the boot floor where the diff bolts up but some cars missed it I think. Seat mounts and rear bar that supports them would probably be an issue, if you've used them. Likewise seat belt/harness mounts, the default arrangement with the Exmo was either a cost-option 'roll-over hoop' (snigger) with upper mounts for intertia reel belts, or else harnesses, and it was the harnesses that were the problem as most people tied them to the rear lip of the boot, which is nowhere near strong enough. Put them down through the floor with spreader plates, tensioned over a suitable crossbar rather than the back of the seat, and you would be fine I think... depends what you've done. What bits are you concerned about?
  10. brumster

    Heat soak

    Not sure what ECU you're using or if you're even on injection, but generally I've found the default maps that cars come with very rarely have had any time spent on the hot-start aspects of the map. Spending a bit of time fine-tuning the cranking enrichment settings and temperature-related enrichment settings made a massive difference for me, and my car now starts generally pretty well, hot or cold. How to do this is a topic in itself though and does take time and patience (particularly cold starts; not your problem though)...
  11. Nice! I have an RX8 seat on my sim rig at home! One thing I'll just forewarn people, they are *bloody heavy* !!
  12. To my knowledge, my Ka cylinder is 20.6mm over the standard 22.6 on the sierra. I have a spreadsheet that works this sort of thing out, I'll try and PM it to you, but going 22.6->20.6mm on the m/c and changing nothing else should see about a 20% decrease in pedal effort...
  13. Yeah, I wouldn't say a pedal box is necessarily the answer. Maybe just a refresh of sorts is all that's needed... check the existing pedal box arrangement for flex/'sticktion' in the bushes, play across the axle that all the pedals pivot on, lubricate, etc? My car is standard Ka M/C on original Sierra brakes and the pedal effort and feel is lovely, spot on for me. Granted it's not like an overly-servo'd tin top but it's a nice balance, just a little bit of 'meat' to it but not overly firm.
  14. brumster


    A couple is probably barely noticeable on a tin-top but more relevant on cars like ours with such little weight. There is no magic number but generally people go with a ballpark number that most people like, without questioning it. It generally aligns with vehicle weight but there are obviously points where, when the numbers go too high or too low, you get a massive drop-off in characteristics. Too low, the sidewall deforms, the contact patch goes to pot and the tyre most likely overheats - but here you see my point, factors such as tyre construction can make a massive difference - soft sidewalls; more pressure. Stiff sidewalls; you can get away with less. So blanket saying "18 psi" doesn't factor in anything about your car weight or tyres. Likewise too high a number and the opposite happens, the sidewall/squish will be reduced, the car will be too stiff, the contact patch will deform the opposite way, and the car will feel taught to a point, skittish past that. But, again, softly sprung cars could get away with it more, or cars with softer tyres. And we've not discussed tyre temperatures, compound, etc... Short answer : fiddle. Go out repeatedly over a known favourite road, adjusting pressures by 2psi at a time (check HOT temperatures, not cold) and see which you prefer
  15. No - they don't care about the heat, just sharp edges. I wrapped my CC but it wasn't from a heat perspective, it was purely to cover the square edges of the lambda sensor/clamps!
  16. Do you mean the pedals don't feel smooth, like the bushes are dry, they 'stick'? Or do you mean the pedals themselves feel flimsy and cheap, are they bending, or flopping about/loose? Or do you just mean that the pedal pressure is too much, you have to stand on them to get any sort of braking effect? Adjustable balance-bar pedal boxes can be finickety to set up, there are nuances to them, they sound all very cool to people who think they've got race car parts in their car but trust me, they require careful setup, planning on balancing the cylinder ratios, and just as easy as they can make things better they can make it worse. I am talking from experience, I have a competition car running one.
  17. brumster


    Personal preference really, on how you want the car to feel and how well the suspension is set up, and also the tyre compound. I run 22 myself.
  18. I noticed in that for sale thread for Gaz's "Hood" that he uses Lotus Elise seats, which look rather nice a fit. I've got the intatrim ones and they're not great comfort-wise, to be honest (they're not horrendous, don't get me wrong, but my previous Westfield ones were better), the angle they sit is (for me) too flat, they don't lift your thighs up or pitch you backwards enough to create a natural arch to your legs when on the pedals because obviously they're pretty much flat on the floor. They need tilting back really, like on a wedge (or raising up, but I don't really think that's sensible or practical in a Zero!)
  19. Green flag you have to provide details of one vehicle but on the personal cover you're not locked to it, so it doesn't matter. I put our tin top down but claimed on the Zero a couple of years ago, no problems. edit: Green Flag renewal is up for me too, for personal UK cover, including onward travel to a destination of your choosing, for myself and partner (all cars), is £80.
  20. Mark, come visit and I'll show you what a proper set of ratios can do for you In short (ha - see what I did there) a shorter diff will improve acceleration across the board but obviously at the expense of revs; your engine will be revving higher for any given road speed, compared to before. It's a trade off really. For me, I don't mind, I don't have this car to do long motorway cruises.
  21. brumster

    Vin stamp

    Stamp it into a piece of steel then fully weld that onto the chassis somewhere, as per the regs above. This way you're also derisking the stamping process a little as they can stamp it up off the car, no risk to the chassis if someone gets the number wrong or a stamp doesn't impact good enough to make a solid impression. When you're happy with the stamped tab of steel, you can weld it onto the car. Job done.
  22. I mean, it could be many things but the minute you said that...
  23. Do it the same as how the previous TPS was set up prior to your engine being mapped. So if the previous TPS was calibrated by pedal, do the same now. That will keep your map consistent.
  24. brumster

    shiny bits

    The magic of IT. I get it all the time.
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