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Everything posted by brumster

  1. I knew a chap who worked for SPA Design and designed their QRB. He said the quality and engineering that went into some of the cheap ones was shocking and, when you think about the repercissions of a QRB failed, coupled with heavy play in the spline, it really should make you think carefully about buying cheap. Buy one designed for race use, then it will surely hold up to anything you throw at it on the road. My steering wheel is a Sabelt SW733, 330mm on an Escort quick rack (2.2). I love it.
  2. I think it's just take your pic of the major brands. Personally, I've got Dewalt but it's just because you buy your first one and that's it then, you're locked in for the lot But the battery connections haven't changed in donkeys years and the other thing I like is that Dewalt sell spare component parts for any tool so, for example, with one old drill I could replace the motor cost effectively rather than having to scrap the whole unit. But, Makita/etc might be the same. I think just pick one on the basis of cost and go with that...
  3. Meanwhile you've got these cheeky buggers running around in electric cars entirely for free! Maybe we should all do this magical switch to electric and imagine how on earth the government are going to fund any road license at all (Yes, I know, they'd start taxing them.... I was being facetious )
  4. I had the same problem on my Zero, I didn't like the throttle pedal ratio and I wasn't able to get quite full open throttle.
  5. That should be fine, you WANT to prove to the DVLA that the old chassis has been scrapped. I took photos of the old chassis being cut up and disposed of, in case they asked for evidence. I kept the chassis plate and VIN number (chopped out of the chassis) myself, so that (i) there was definitely no ID on the scrapped chassis that could have been taken by a nefarious scrap dealer but also (ii) so that I could show evidence if the DVLA asked for it. As soon as I got the new car sorted, I disposed of them.
  6. I just applied to the DVLA via a letter - it's in my build thread somewhere - and got a VIN assigned within a week or so. It was no hassle at all. Thus : You then put it on the chassis somewhere (I stamped it on a steel plate then welded that onto the chassis), along with the more traditional VIN/chassis ID plate (the tin one with axle weights/etc on it) somewhere more visible - that you can buy from GBS or a number of places.
  7. brumster

    Which Donor Car

    That's true, I didn't think of that recommendation (!) - you can always use a kit car as a donor car, that's true! Probably cheaper than trying to find a Sierra too!
  8. brumster

    Which Donor Car

    I'd agree with the sentiment on the 2B - to be building a 2B on a Sierra donor and avoiding a Q plate, if that was your goal, would have to be a very good deal on the donor and even then, the 'quality' of the resulting car might be questionable... however there's nothing to say you couldn't get it on the road with the Sierra engine/gearbox/etc and then "upgrade" it over time. But if there was an option for a newer kit using more readily available donor parts (eg. MX5) then, even if it was a little more expensive, I'd consider the savings of being able to source a single donor that got the car completed rather than fighting to find parts (or succumbing to the Q-plate, if that doesn't concern you)...
  9. I honestly can't remember where it came from, it's probably off Demon Tweeks or some other similar online place, coupled with a suitable clevis for the pedal. It's nothing special, I just cut it down to length, there will be some pics in my build thread somewhere... and I made a pedal stop to ensure you can't pull the pedal up too far and the pushrod could fall out or partially remove and lose alignment, which would be pretty disastrous
  10. My Zero is on standard brakes all round, with a Ka m/c and no servo, and works lovely. Granted it's a smidgen lighter than a 2B but as Peter said, given these brakes were designed to haul up a tonne-plus of Sierra, I don't really see how they can't be made to work for our application....
  11. Here's a link to the google spreadsheet, so you can muck about with any values you like : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LQSbKlyGIUP5RQsNfQq0tfoluxTSvHvBSelTBwvNDs0/edit?usp=sharing
  12. Here you go 11% change in caliper/piston ratio, so easier to press but obviously you will end up trading travel for that (your pedal will go longer to achieve the same pressure as before). I assume all other aspects remain the same ie. master cylinder, pedal pivot points, etc. Brake piston calculations - Std Sierra to Mondeo.pdf
  13. What's the piston diameter on the new calipers? Your old ones are 60mm right? Are the ST ones a sliding caliper design I take it? If so, I'll run some numbers into a spreadsheet I have to give you an idea of what change you'll see at the pedal...
  14. I am guessing you're saying that for the fact the mains studs seem higher than the big end bolts but do you not have instructions on 2 or 3-stage angle-based tightening *after* that inital torque setting?
  15. Yeah, coz your engine is just sooooo small.....
  16. Money no object and you go for Gaz?!?!
  17. Your main end bolts are typically much bigger though, plus they're not getting flung around at several thousand rpm I would just suspect the loading on the rods is higher than the crank caps, but that's just my FingerInTheAir-o-meter working rather than anything quantifiably backed up by science
  18. I'd probably get some one-off front hubs machined and get the whole front-end geometry sorted.
  19. <laughs> I kinda meant removing the pedal to do it
  20. Assuming you're happy with it in all aspects other than where the pedal sits, if it's all standard probably the easiest thing to do is part-cut the pedal, bend it out to the position you want, then weld two plates back onto the sides to put the strength back in...
  21. brumster

    Newbie 2B

    Indeed :). I mean, if all 4 are consistently on the wrong way, you can just swap them over left-to-right.....
  22. brumster

    Newbie 2B

    Your tyres/wheels are on the wrong way
  23. I can vouch for this guy https://brettsimsmotorsport.co.uk/
  24. Yeah if left on for years this stuff comes off horrible. Agreed on the acetone/brake cleaner approach but if you're going to paint the panel give it a really good clean afterwards!
  25. Unless we're talking track car, I'd say windscreen all day every day....
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