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Everything posted by brumster

  1. brumster

    Heat soak

    Not sure what ECU you're using or if you're even on injection, but generally I've found the default maps that cars come with very rarely have had any time spent on the hot-start aspects of the map. Spending a bit of time fine-tuning the cranking enrichment settings and temperature-related enrichment settings made a massive difference for me, and my car now starts generally pretty well, hot or cold. How to do this is a topic in itself though and does take time and patience (particularly cold starts; not your problem though)...
  2. Nice! I have an RX8 seat on my sim rig at home! One thing I'll just forewarn people, they are *bloody heavy* !!
  3. To my knowledge, my Ka cylinder is 20.6mm over the standard 22.6 on the sierra. I have a spreadsheet that works this sort of thing out, I'll try and PM it to you, but going 22.6->20.6mm on the m/c and changing nothing else should see about a 20% decrease in pedal effort...
  4. Yeah, I wouldn't say a pedal box is necessarily the answer. Maybe just a refresh of sorts is all that's needed... check the existing pedal box arrangement for flex/'sticktion' in the bushes, play across the axle that all the pedals pivot on, lubricate, etc? My car is standard Ka M/C on original Sierra brakes and the pedal effort and feel is lovely, spot on for me. Granted it's not like an overly-servo'd tin top but it's a nice balance, just a little bit of 'meat' to it but not overly firm.
  5. brumster


    A couple is probably barely noticeable on a tin-top but more relevant on cars like ours with such little weight. There is no magic number but generally people go with a ballpark number that most people like, without questioning it. It generally aligns with vehicle weight but there are obviously points where, when the numbers go too high or too low, you get a massive drop-off in characteristics. Too low, the sidewall deforms, the contact patch goes to pot and the tyre most likely overheats - but here you see my point, factors such as tyre construction can make a massive difference - soft sidewalls; more pressure. Stiff sidewalls; you can get away with less. So blanket saying "18 psi" doesn't factor in anything about your car weight or tyres. Likewise too high a number and the opposite happens, the sidewall/squish will be reduced, the car will be too stiff, the contact patch will deform the opposite way, and the car will feel taught to a point, skittish past that. But, again, softly sprung cars could get away with it more, or cars with softer tyres. And we've not discussed tyre temperatures, compound, etc... Short answer : fiddle. Go out repeatedly over a known favourite road, adjusting pressures by 2psi at a time (check HOT temperatures, not cold) and see which you prefer
  6. No - they don't care about the heat, just sharp edges. I wrapped my CC but it wasn't from a heat perspective, it was purely to cover the square edges of the lambda sensor/clamps!
  7. Do you mean the pedals don't feel smooth, like the bushes are dry, they 'stick'? Or do you mean the pedals themselves feel flimsy and cheap, are they bending, or flopping about/loose? Or do you just mean that the pedal pressure is too much, you have to stand on them to get any sort of braking effect? Adjustable balance-bar pedal boxes can be finickety to set up, there are nuances to them, they sound all very cool to people who think they've got race car parts in their car but trust me, they require careful setup, planning on balancing the cylinder ratios, and just as easy as they can make things better they can make it worse. I am talking from experience, I have a competition car running one.
  8. brumster


    Personal preference really, on how you want the car to feel and how well the suspension is set up, and also the tyre compound. I run 22 myself.
  9. I noticed in that for sale thread for Gaz's "Hood" that he uses Lotus Elise seats, which look rather nice a fit. I've got the intatrim ones and they're not great comfort-wise, to be honest (they're not horrendous, don't get me wrong, but my previous Westfield ones were better), the angle they sit is (for me) too flat, they don't lift your thighs up or pitch you backwards enough to create a natural arch to your legs when on the pedals because obviously they're pretty much flat on the floor. They need tilting back really, like on a wedge (or raising up, but I don't really think that's sensible or practical in a Zero!)
  10. Green flag you have to provide details of one vehicle but on the personal cover you're not locked to it, so it doesn't matter. I put our tin top down but claimed on the Zero a couple of years ago, no problems. edit: Green Flag renewal is up for me too, for personal UK cover, including onward travel to a destination of your choosing, for myself and partner (all cars), is £80.
  11. Mark, come visit and I'll show you what a proper set of ratios can do for you In short (ha - see what I did there) a shorter diff will improve acceleration across the board but obviously at the expense of revs; your engine will be revving higher for any given road speed, compared to before. It's a trade off really. For me, I don't mind, I don't have this car to do long motorway cruises.
  12. brumster

    Vin stamp

    Stamp it into a piece of steel then fully weld that onto the chassis somewhere, as per the regs above. This way you're also derisking the stamping process a little as they can stamp it up off the car, no risk to the chassis if someone gets the number wrong or a stamp doesn't impact good enough to make a solid impression. When you're happy with the stamped tab of steel, you can weld it onto the car. Job done.
  13. I mean, it could be many things but the minute you said that...
  14. Do it the same as how the previous TPS was set up prior to your engine being mapped. So if the previous TPS was calibrated by pedal, do the same now. That will keep your map consistent.
  15. brumster

    shiny bits

    The magic of IT. I get it all the time.
  16. I knew a chap who worked for SPA Design and designed their QRB. He said the quality and engineering that went into some of the cheap ones was shocking and, when you think about the repercissions of a QRB failed, coupled with heavy play in the spline, it really should make you think carefully about buying cheap. Buy one designed for race use, then it will surely hold up to anything you throw at it on the road. My steering wheel is a Sabelt SW733, 330mm on an Escort quick rack (2.2). I love it.
  17. I think it's just take your pic of the major brands. Personally, I've got Dewalt but it's just because you buy your first one and that's it then, you're locked in for the lot But the battery connections haven't changed in donkeys years and the other thing I like is that Dewalt sell spare component parts for any tool so, for example, with one old drill I could replace the motor cost effectively rather than having to scrap the whole unit. But, Makita/etc might be the same. I think just pick one on the basis of cost and go with that...
  18. Meanwhile you've got these cheeky buggers running around in electric cars entirely for free! Maybe we should all do this magical switch to electric and imagine how on earth the government are going to fund any road license at all (Yes, I know, they'd start taxing them.... I was being facetious )
  19. I had the same problem on my Zero, I didn't like the throttle pedal ratio and I wasn't able to get quite full open throttle.
  20. That should be fine, you WANT to prove to the DVLA that the old chassis has been scrapped. I took photos of the old chassis being cut up and disposed of, in case they asked for evidence. I kept the chassis plate and VIN number (chopped out of the chassis) myself, so that (i) there was definitely no ID on the scrapped chassis that could have been taken by a nefarious scrap dealer but also (ii) so that I could show evidence if the DVLA asked for it. As soon as I got the new car sorted, I disposed of them.
  21. I just applied to the DVLA via a letter - it's in my build thread somewhere - and got a VIN assigned within a week or so. It was no hassle at all. Thus : You then put it on the chassis somewhere (I stamped it on a steel plate then welded that onto the chassis), along with the more traditional VIN/chassis ID plate (the tin one with axle weights/etc on it) somewhere more visible - that you can buy from GBS or a number of places.
  22. brumster

    Which Donor Car

    That's true, I didn't think of that recommendation (!) - you can always use a kit car as a donor car, that's true! Probably cheaper than trying to find a Sierra too!
  23. brumster

    Which Donor Car

    I'd agree with the sentiment on the 2B - to be building a 2B on a Sierra donor and avoiding a Q plate, if that was your goal, would have to be a very good deal on the donor and even then, the 'quality' of the resulting car might be questionable... however there's nothing to say you couldn't get it on the road with the Sierra engine/gearbox/etc and then "upgrade" it over time. But if there was an option for a newer kit using more readily available donor parts (eg. MX5) then, even if it was a little more expensive, I'd consider the savings of being able to source a single donor that got the car completed rather than fighting to find parts (or succumbing to the Q-plate, if that doesn't concern you)...
  24. I honestly can't remember where it came from, it's probably off Demon Tweeks or some other similar online place, coupled with a suitable clevis for the pedal. It's nothing special, I just cut it down to length, there will be some pics in my build thread somewhere... and I made a pedal stop to ensure you can't pull the pedal up too far and the pushrod could fall out or partially remove and lose alignment, which would be pretty disastrous
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