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brumster

RHOCaR Member
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Everything posted by brumster

  1. My Zero is on standard brakes all round, with a Ka m/c and no servo, and works lovely. Granted it's a smidgen lighter than a 2B but as Peter said, given these brakes were designed to haul up a tonne-plus of Sierra, I don't really see how they can't be made to work for our application....
  2. Here's a link to the google spreadsheet, so you can muck about with any values you like : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LQSbKlyGIUP5RQsNfQq0tfoluxTSvHvBSelTBwvNDs0/edit?usp=sharing
  3. Here you go 11% change in caliper/piston ratio, so easier to press but obviously you will end up trading travel for that (your pedal will go longer to achieve the same pressure as before). I assume all other aspects remain the same ie. master cylinder, pedal pivot points, etc. Brake piston calculations - Std Sierra to Mondeo.pdf
  4. What's the piston diameter on the new calipers? Your old ones are 60mm right? Are the ST ones a sliding caliper design I take it? If so, I'll run some numbers into a spreadsheet I have to give you an idea of what change you'll see at the pedal...
  5. I am guessing you're saying that for the fact the mains studs seem higher than the big end bolts but do you not have instructions on 2 or 3-stage angle-based tightening *after* that inital torque setting?
  6. Yeah, coz your engine is just sooooo small.....
  7. Money no object and you go for Gaz?!?!
  8. Your main end bolts are typically much bigger though, plus they're not getting flung around at several thousand rpm I would just suspect the loading on the rods is higher than the crank caps, but that's just my FingerInTheAir-o-meter working rather than anything quantifiably backed up by science
  9. I'd probably get some one-off front hubs machined and get the whole front-end geometry sorted.
  10. <laughs> I kinda meant removing the pedal to do it
  11. Assuming you're happy with it in all aspects other than where the pedal sits, if it's all standard probably the easiest thing to do is part-cut the pedal, bend it out to the position you want, then weld two plates back onto the sides to put the strength back in...
  12. brumster

    Newbie 2B

    Indeed :). I mean, if all 4 are consistently on the wrong way, you can just swap them over left-to-right.....
  13. brumster

    Newbie 2B

    Your tyres/wheels are on the wrong way
  14. I can vouch for this guy https://brettsimsmotorsport.co.uk/
  15. Yeah if left on for years this stuff comes off horrible. Agreed on the acetone/brake cleaner approach but if you're going to paint the panel give it a really good clean afterwards!
  16. Unless we're talking track car, I'd say windscreen all day every day....
  17. I had this function on a ECU. On the basis it uses no wheel speed sensors, it will be a fairly rudimentary rpm-hold type function. Arm it, clutch depressed activates an rpm-hold so you just bury the throttle and it holds rpm. Pop the clutch and it managed the amount of power released. You can hear/see it at the start of this video
  18. I'm 99% sure you'll be fine. My car had the old-style flat key barrel originally (1985 model year) and when I built the Zero I bought the new lock style with the more modern Ford key, as per the kit spares link, and it fitted into the steering column no problem. So I think (fingers crossed) they're the same across the model years, they just changed the barrel key fitment, if my experience was anything to go by...
  19. You can get replacement new ones.... https://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=681
  20. The problem on the Exmo is you can't expose the centre tunnel as it's a welded monocoque
  21. Your other option is down the central tunnel but your challenge is getting in there to pin it in place at regular intervals. There is nothing in the IVA regs preventing you from routing the pipework internally that I can see. Obviously it needs to be safe, secure, avoid any fouling or rubbing, etc. Happy to stand corrected if someone believes otherwise but I just skim-read the IVA document and couldn't see anything specific about it?
  22. Red fibreglass was/is notorious for this; GTMs used to suffer this badly and red was a very popular colour in them. I'm sure it was down to something used as the pigment, that made it the worst colour for being affected by UV rays. Back in the 90's I used a special polish that was supposed to minimise this (a boat polish) on my GTM and it kept it pretty well for several years. Mind you this is all bit "after the horse has bolted" for you, sorry !
  23. brumster

    Newbie 2B

    I'm sure a 2B coupled with 20 bungee cords and two big fence posts can get close...
  24. This layout gives way better clearing of screen for the driver, it gets up nicely on the right-hand edge (as the driver sees). I spent a long time carefully trialling and positioning the blades to work out where the holes would go (my car wasn't pre-drilled, thankfully). I was so thankful of these at the Wales weekend the other year - they really made the whole weekend so more "pleasure" than "pain" :). Standard Defender wiper motor in terms of sweep angle/gear.
  25. I had a muckaround with that! Quite cool still turned out more expensive than the epoxy (for mine at least) but at least you could have some cool patterns!
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