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brumster

RHOCaR Member
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Everything posted by brumster

  1. Assuming you're happy with it in all aspects other than where the pedal sits, if it's all standard probably the easiest thing to do is part-cut the pedal, bend it out to the position you want, then weld two plates back onto the sides to put the strength back in...
  2. brumster

    Newbie 2B

    Indeed :). I mean, if all 4 are consistently on the wrong way, you can just swap them over left-to-right.....
  3. brumster

    Newbie 2B

    Your tyres/wheels are on the wrong way
  4. I can vouch for this guy https://brettsimsmotorsport.co.uk/
  5. Yeah if left on for years this stuff comes off horrible. Agreed on the acetone/brake cleaner approach but if you're going to paint the panel give it a really good clean afterwards!
  6. Unless we're talking track car, I'd say windscreen all day every day....
  7. I had this function on a ECU. On the basis it uses no wheel speed sensors, it will be a fairly rudimentary rpm-hold type function. Arm it, clutch depressed activates an rpm-hold so you just bury the throttle and it holds rpm. Pop the clutch and it managed the amount of power released. You can hear/see it at the start of this video
  8. I'm 99% sure you'll be fine. My car had the old-style flat key barrel originally (1985 model year) and when I built the Zero I bought the new lock style with the more modern Ford key, as per the kit spares link, and it fitted into the steering column no problem. So I think (fingers crossed) they're the same across the model years, they just changed the barrel key fitment, if my experience was anything to go by...
  9. You can get replacement new ones.... https://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=681
  10. The problem on the Exmo is you can't expose the centre tunnel as it's a welded monocoque
  11. Your other option is down the central tunnel but your challenge is getting in there to pin it in place at regular intervals. There is nothing in the IVA regs preventing you from routing the pipework internally that I can see. Obviously it needs to be safe, secure, avoid any fouling or rubbing, etc. Happy to stand corrected if someone believes otherwise but I just skim-read the IVA document and couldn't see anything specific about it?
  12. Red fibreglass was/is notorious for this; GTMs used to suffer this badly and red was a very popular colour in them. I'm sure it was down to something used as the pigment, that made it the worst colour for being affected by UV rays. Back in the 90's I used a special polish that was supposed to minimise this (a boat polish) on my GTM and it kept it pretty well for several years. Mind you this is all bit "after the horse has bolted" for you, sorry !
  13. brumster

    Newbie 2B

    I'm sure a 2B coupled with 20 bungee cords and two big fence posts can get close...
  14. This layout gives way better clearing of screen for the driver, it gets up nicely on the right-hand edge (as the driver sees). I spent a long time carefully trialling and positioning the blades to work out where the holes would go (my car wasn't pre-drilled, thankfully). I was so thankful of these at the Wales weekend the other year - they really made the whole weekend so more "pleasure" than "pain" :). Standard Defender wiper motor in terms of sweep angle/gear.
  15. I had a muckaround with that! Quite cool still turned out more expensive than the epoxy (for mine at least) but at least you could have some cool patterns!
  16. Here you go! CL reference is the tab on the back of the dashboard/scuttle. All measurements are mm. One thing I would say is remember there's a certain amount of adjustment in the wiper blade (for me at least) they can be varied in length and bent (and they needed it!)
  17. I'll do it tomorrow for you
  18. brumster

    Newbie 2B

    We had an Exmo with a rolling-road confirmed 130bhp Pinto. On a 4 speed box it did 0-60 in just under 7 seconds, measured with a proper acceleration timer that RHOCaR had (done at a Curborough track day, hot day, dry, good conditions and good launch). So, I'm afraid, if you're dreaming of a sub-5 second performance, dream on People's definitions of fast are different. Even my current Zero (180ish bhp, a whole load lighter and with a proper 6 speed gearbox) I do not consider "fast".
  19. Ah ok yeah, they're a bit cheaper....!
  20. At £36 per sq/m I'd politely disagree!
  21. I put resincoat epoxy on mine which is fantastic BUT... i) I had the luxury of having put down fresh concrete so I know it was clean ii) it's hard work cleaning the dust off the floor beforehand ii) it is hard work spreading it on quick enough before it sets I recommend it but you'd need a clean floor beforehand... you can get big surface-grinder style polishers that can take a layer of concrete off but then it's get even more expensive ...
  22. brumster

    Speedo

    I'd agree, it just looks like an earth tab for if you're using a backlight and the clock isn't mounted into something conductive (say a plastic/grp dashboard). Not essential for it functioning as a speedo.
  23. I made mine, measured and planned the system out, ordered the various sections from https://www.304stainlessexhaustparts.com who cut and swaged everything to order (very helpful). I handled the kink in the body at the scuttle by just cutting and welding the section between the cat and the silencer at an angle. What I would say is, just get someone to weld it for you - my welding isn't up to the standard I'd want for an exhaust (and I don't have any stainless wire either!) so I tacked it up with mild on the car, then took the entire thing to a mate who did it for me and spotted him some beer tokens. I'm sure you can find somewhere that would do that for you. No-one would make me an exhaust off design, they all wanted the car (even if I said I absolve them of blame if it doesn't fit!) and on top of that they wanted stupid £££ for the task so in the end I did it myself and am very happy with the result.
  24. Yes, I have a very specific gearbox oil and it's different to diff *but* that's for a type 9, not an MT75. MT75 might be the same but I can't speak from experience...
  25. Cool, ok, so you're getting lights, a wiring loom, a radiator, shocks/springs, a dashboard and a set of suspension bolts in addition to the base kit. If you're happy with all of those it works, obviously the wiring loom is specific to the car so provided you had no plans to do anything weird and wonderful (different engine, different switchgear and so forth) it shouldn't be a problem - at most you might me modifying it slightly if you decided to do something different, it's not the end of the world. There are some options you can look at and decide whether you can source them separately (seat belts, seats, gauges, fuel tank, handbrake, exhaust, carpets), windscreen and all associated bracketry, wipers, etc or source them from GBS/Kitspares while you're at it. Nelmo's spreadsheet is a good reminder of all the consumable and "gotchas" that you need to buy... I think the main thing I was trying to get out was, it's easy to think about the large items like seats, engine, wheels, tyres but don't forget - consumable like rivets, nuts, bolts, clips, cable ties, jubillee clips, exhaust clamps, hose (custom water hoses aren't cheap), fluids - services (reconditioning, painting, or whatever) - route replacement items (clutch, brake pads, discs, you might decide you don't trust the donor calipers for example) You'll not want the default fuel tank solution from GBS so you'll need to factor in either the costs of a separate swirl pot, or else modifying the tank to take a better combined pump+swirl pot. Personally, in hindsight, I would just get a custom tank fabricated. Also don't forget to factor in the IVA costs and all that shizzle !
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