IanS

You can take a gamble on the weather and pre pay. £10 + £1p&p https://nationalkitcarshow.co.uk/tickets/

https://www.google.com/maps/@52.0845182,-2.3098012,181m/data=!3m1!1e3!5m1!1e1?entry=ttu Airial view of last year centered on the camping area last year.

Looking at the length of the hoses from the resevoirs to the MC, gravity feed should be possible. Unbolt the resevoirs and suspend them still connected as high as you can. Fill them and crack the bleed nipples and wait keeping checking the fluid level.

I think that our cars are on the second row.

https://www.google.com/maps/@52.0835888,-2.3135676,128m/data=!3m1!1e3!5m1!1e1?entry=ttu Taken at last years show. Who can identify thier car?

All being well I am happy to lead down the A49 again. Meeting at the Cat & Lion pub just north of junction 10 M56. Time to be arranged. I will probably camp over.

Forcast of 40+MPH winds and rain, unless this changes I wont be going this time.

Family birthday precludes attendance. Everyone else have a good trip.

Back in the day.. Fuel guages were a hot wire movement where the electric current heated a wire in the guage which warmed it up and thus it got longer which was used to move the needle. It takes time to warm the wire so the gauge is said to be damped. You would switch the ignition on and the needle would creep up over a couple of seconds. Now guages are moving coil and react very quickly. Guage reading full when empty and empty when full is down to the sender in the tank and idealy should be fixed there. Modern cars drive the guage as a stepper motor system with all the damping done is software in the ECU. If you want to try a capacitor then https://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufm1v102/capacitor-radial-1000uf-35v/dp/CA07431 might work, I have not tried this myself, connect the negative contact to ground and the positive to the wire from the sender to the guage. This can be done on the back of the guage.

First your problem is probably not having a damped guage rather than the sender. As you drive the fuel sloshes about and a fast acting guage jumps all over the place as the float moves with the waves. The sender to me looks like a modified sierra sender. The sierra one has a 3 pin socket and an earth tag, this appears to have been replaced with a single connection. The 3 connections were 2 variable connections 1 to the guage and the other to the optional MPG computer fitted to top spec cars, the 3rd contact was a simple on/off to a low fuel light. Robin Hood fuel tank is rectangular stainless and fitted across the back of the car and could hold just about 30 liters not all useable as he flat bottom leaves several liters sloshing round after the pickup sucks air. Also the sierra unmodified filler neck sticks quite a way into the tank and if no provision for the air getting out has been provided this prevents the tank beeing fiilled to the brim. The second pipe is intended as a fuel return not a vent. I hope that this helps.

What you have got depends on the builder. RH showed how to cut down and weld the sierra wiper system. But most prefered to fit the Lucas system as fitted to BMC / AustinRover cars from 1960s onwards.

As I see it there are 4 posibilities. 1 pump fitted wrong way round and is pumping from engine to tank. 2 no petrol in tank. 3 blockage. 4 dead pump. I am hoping that you have already checked 1 & 2. If you disconnect the outlet from the pump does fuel flow? If it does blockage in line to engine. Otherwise blockage between tank and pump. Did you use PTFE tape around the right angle connections as this can block the connection. Dirt in the system can also cause blockage by stoping the non return working I do not see any filter in the system. Fingers crossed that you find the fault. Ian

I went and checked my V5. It shows 6 former keepers. As I bought the doner sierra with 6 former keepers and then used it to build my Exmo, which I still have, it appears that you inherit former keepers with the doner.

Well done Jan. As an Exmo builder and owner from batch 2 I realy like your efforts. Ian

Would not be the first faulty component I have come across and then spent futile hours chaseing other posible causes. If it is the only thing on that fuse it is faulty. OR the wire downstream of the fuse has an intermittant short that is masked at 25A by thin wire upstream not passing the current. Try running a test wire from the battery fitted with a 5 A fuse direct from the battery to the pump. If the fuse does not blow then you have a wiring fault, if it does blow the pump is faulty.