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Sparepart

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Everything posted by Sparepart

  1. I learned to drive in a sit up and beg Ford 8 (1172cc sidevalve), then upgraded to a Mk1 ford Zephyr 6 cyl a bit over 2 litres with bench seat and 3 speed column gearchange, no synchro into 1st, but you didn't need that gear much, then a Ford Anglia 105E with a larger engine 1340 cc from a Classic.... I'll stop there.
  2. Just a thought. Before you press the brake pedal, check the gap between the back of the pad and the piston and the pad and the disk, see if the pads are quite free. Do your pedal pumping thing until the brakes are firm, now the pads should be firmly gripping the disk. Then release the brake pedal. Now there should be a residual pressure in the pipe that keeps the pads very close to the disk, actually very slightly still braking. If the pads/pistons retire away from the disk then this could explain your first ineffectual pump. You might find no real difference in the piston/pad freedom in which case it would rule out a lack of "residual pressure" being your problem.
  3. You have not indicated the carb type or ignition system, if you have the carb that goes with the ESC II ignition module as fitted to some Sierras then you will have a "Power Hold" relay, which keeps the ECU powered up after the ignition is switched off. In the manual it indicates that this lets the ECU return to an idle state and reset the stepper motor on the choke and reduce likelyhood of "overrun" by venting the inlet manifold. So if you have this sort of system then a malfunction of the power hold feature could cause your symptoms. On another tack, if there is a "hotspot" its not likely to affect more than one cylinder, so you might try running the engine on three cylinders and changing the non firing cylinder to see if the there is s difference when you turn off the engine. This is just a suggestion, Ive never tried, perhaps running on three is too rough to notice a difference.
  4. The 1.6 emax is more properly designated as Pinto variant TL16E, the fordopedia parts catalogue lists the timing belt as have 122 teeth Ford part number 6139911. Use "Ford 6139911" in a Google search and discover several sources for this belt for example: https://www.123spareparts.co.uk/oem-number/6139911 some also include the tensioner etc which you will aslo probably need. https://www.fordopedia.org/parts-catalog/finis/6139911 Hope this helps.
  5. Sparepart

    Sheds

    The problem with the metal shed is that during spells of cold weather the thermal conductivity of the metal means it gets really cold. Then, usually in this country the cold weather is followed by mild weather with high humidity, the water then condenses out on the metal surface until the metal warms up, after a frost it can sometimes fall like rain on anything in the shed, you think that there is a hole in the roof, because in some places the water dribbles down an edge and build pools of water. Wood gets just as cold and no doubt condensation forms, however as long as its not painted with water repellent paint, the humidity is absorbed into the wood.
  6. I have done a bit of Googling (I guess thats a verb now) I think that you will find there are two ford OEM numbers, one for the head gasket alone and the other for a head kit that includes the head gasket. Search with "Ford 5028468" for the kit and "Ford 6905862" for just the gasket. A description of the bore of the engine is already in the following thread https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/44486-e-max-engine/ where it is quoted as 81mm, the gaskets that the OEM numbers search turns up are 83 mm .... does the head gasket need a 1mm gap ? not sure, if so, then these look right. Here is a link that turns up if the OEM is used in a Google search. https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/oenumber/6905862.html Check it out.
  7. Please have a look at the following link, I am not sure if it will help or further confuse, according to this parts catalogue there are an assortment of sizes depending on position and year of manufacture. All the sizes are bigger than your measurement, like 38 and 48 mm. https://www.fordopedia.org/parts-catalog/pinto-ohc/B1.40
  8. I'm not 100% sure about this, but on my car the carb is the other way round, with the throttle cable coming to the rear of the inlet manifold. The picture with the red cam cover shows this, but the first picture looks like a view from the front of the car, and the throttle shaft pointing forwards, which not the right way round. This doesn't answer you question about how the linkage works, but if it is the wrong way round the cable may not reach or have the correct approach to the mechanism.
  9. Perhaps the extra 0.5 mm radius of the piston has increased the volume (pi r squared h) of the stroke so that now the standard compression ratio is when the piston top is a little lower ?. How about trying to measure the CR ?, seal the valves in one of the cylinders with thin layer of silicone sealant and have the spark plug in, and with the head level, flll the chamber with water and measure exactly the volume of water used. Add to this volume, the thickness of a gasket and the gap above your piston (pi r squared the distances) and you have the volume of the combustion chamber. Then measure the stroke to calculate the induction volume. You will then have the two volumes to work out the CR. Costs nothing to try, and then with luck you will know from where you are starting in your quest for high compression. I'd have thought that you could make an accurate liquid measurement if you can use a medical syringe to empty the liquid as they should have accurate volume markings and also perhaps a liquid with low surface tension, like say paraffin, so that you can fill level without that bulge on the edges that water produces, or maybe water with detergent or dishwasher clear glass liquid.
  10. Nelmo is correct, this is one of the most "skill testing" parts of the build, I am fairly shure that the 3A is the same as the Exmo with regard to this. I have completed this after a fashion. The original kit contains only the "raw" components, you would need to have these even if someone else does the work. From memory the bits are:- Two pieces of pre-bent aluminium channel to make a frame, a toughened glass windscreen, two thick flat steel support brackets (roughly cut by plasma), a roll of flat thickish rubber strip to go round the glass when it's in the frame, and two stainless steel self tapping screws to clamp the frame together once its been cut to size. The kit did not contain a wiper motor mechanism, it was to be taken from the Sierra donor and modified to reduce the distance between the spindles. The spindle holes were pre cut (rough plasma again) in the scuttle, BUT the screen support mounting holes in both the supports and the scuttle sides were not pre-drilled or pre marked. The jobs to be done, simply stated, are- Cut and fit the frame to the glass with rubber inserted using various clamps, loads of parcel tape, rubber mallet, drilling holes across mitre joints and securing with self tapping screws, all without breaking the glass. Position the framed screen on the scuttle to find the sweet spot for the bottom curve match to the scuttle, mark position. Make two bends in the flat supports, one is to match the radius of the scuttle at the sweet spot, the other a twist in the upright part to square up the screen edge. Drill holes in supports and scuttle. Now with great care drill holes in the side of the frame without breaking into the glass to fix the screen edge to the support upright. Tighten everything up and voila! ...........I hope this gives you a flavour of the work involved. Most people do not fit the modded Sierra wipers, or if they do they ditch them shortly after... then fit BMC type wipers as per Mk1 minis, morris, austins etc.... If you or someone wants to go ahead with this I could send you DVD copies of the Exmo build instructions that have got all the standard procedures in gory detail. Oh, yes of course the hood cant be fitted until the windscreen is there and this post has gone on far longer than I intended, a bit like fitting a screen.
  11. If you are looking for the connecters that push on to the threaded posts on the coil ? ... why not buy a pair of spade terminals to bolt on the coil then you can use the easy to get spade connectors. For example https://simonbbc.com/coil-spade-terminal/
  12. Why not try Prestone.... it's the answer to everything. I attach the product info.
  13. How about using a pressed steel type joint, it might tighten up better on your splines. https://www.burtonpower.com/steering-coupling-gp4-ford-escort-mk1-mk2-pressed-steel-type-mp207.html Alternatively, you could try drilling out the hole on the clamp by say 2mm to take a wider bolt and then carefully filing a groove in the splined shaft end so that the bolt only just slips through, this could both prevent the shaft pulling out and stop it slipping round.
  14. If you are using the usual 21 watt filament stop lights, the reed switch needs to comfortably handle 42 watts (2 bulbs) at 12 volts, i.e 3.5 amps. So you need a swich that is rated above 3.5 amps at a minimum, the more above this the better.
  15. Did you do a search for this topic ? you might already have found this https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/49808-fuel-sender/ . Notice that the Sierra sender has a pin that increases resistance as the tank empties and one that goes the other way decreasing resistance as the tank empties .... might explain your comment about your gauge reading backwards.
  16. If you have repaced the ignition warning bulb with an LED bulb, then that might also prevent the alternator charging, can be seen because the LED appears to be constantly turned on when the engine is revving.
  17. Luckily my standard size 10 feet seem to work well with the position of the Sierra pedal box on the Exmo, so the clutch and brake pedal positions are ok, however the throttle pedal was not in a good place to indulge in a bit of "heel and toe". This was easy to remedy because the throttle pedal is idependent of the pedal box and is easily moved up or down as long as you are willing to make a new hole for the cable to run out from the top of the pedal. Lowering the pedal box to lower the pedals would not be easy on the Exmo, and would bring the brake servo/ master cylinder even closer to the hot exhaust pipe. The Bob Tucker solution sounds simple and effective, an example of "vertical thinking".....
  18. Possibly not just at the back of the fuse box, maybe somewhere along the length of wire from fuse to the gearbox switch might have been severed by someting when the ignition was off ?
  19. I've not had to paint any of the blue bits on my kit, purchased in 1996, however I remember on the build video Tricky Dicky says that it is "Oxford Blue" Pantone 282. BTW you say your RH is 1989, yet the member bit on the left has you as having a 2B .... perhaps the donor was 1989 ?.
  20. I agree, you don't want to be hacking away bits of bodywork. When you remove the seats, on each side you should find a large roughly rectangular thick steel plate It is bolted to the SS floor. The large bolt in your picture comes up through the middle of the plate so you can undo it. The outside edge of the plate is bent up at right angles and a bolt goes through it and the bush that you want to replace. In your photo of the "bad" bush you can see the edge of this plate to the left of the bush. The big round bush with the big bolt is set in all that rubber so no matter how tight that big bolt is, it still can move about. Whereas the right angled flange connects more firmly to the subframe. So the big bolt and the bolt through the flange will hve to be removed along with all the other stuff the IanS mentions in order to drop the subframe enough to replace the bushes. In the case of an Exmo, the SVA inspector insisted that a second vertical bolt be placed, not set in rubber, to fix the subframe firmly to the plate in the floor. So you might find another vertical bolt when you remove the seat. The head will not be visible in your picture because its up inside that hole just to the left of the big rubber mounting.
  21. Interesting, I did not try this on my Exmo what I was afraid of is that the sump is below a quickly narrowing part of underbody that supports the engine mounting trays, they make a forward pointing V shape, it looks like the engine will not just slide forward as the sump gets wedged in the V, so it has to be raised at the front, so that would mean supporting the front of the gearbox in order to pull them apart, which raises the possibility of putting up or down pressure on the gearbox input shaft just before it pulls out of the spigot bearing or scratching the end on the clutch release mechanism. So, probably over cautious, I took the unit out joined and seperated the engine from the gearbox with them both level and a small trolley under each. Taking them out seperately avoides losing gearbox oil and probably makes fiddling with the speedo cable easier as the gear box can be moved closer to the hole in the transmission tunnel. Also of course if it's just the engine your after then why remove the gearbox. One other thing is the clutch cable removal. The clutch cable is normaly under some tension from the auto adjusting mechanism in the pedal box, this can be released to make cable disconnect easier by lifting the clutch pedal up as far as it will go and keeping it there with a piece of wood. This lifts a small serated cam off the adjusting quadrant that is hidden in the pedal box.
  22. Took one out of an Exmo about 2 years ago ... lets try and remember ... Engine and gearbox are taken out together, it's a snug fit so everything you can do to make space is helpful. The unit must come forward but also up at angle, quite a steep angle in order to clear the top of the front cross member, so obviously radiator and viscous fan come off, I removed the nosecone just in case it would get biffed when sump came over the cross member. The RHE four branch manifold must be removed, and I did take off the inlet manifold with carb attached, probably not required but again avoiding inadvertant damage. Once the engine weight is on the hoist take the engine mounts off at the block and remove from engine bay. I also removed the starter motor and alternator, to reduce weight and increase manouverability. Obviously the gear lever, but also the speedo cable, which was quite tricky because it came out of a hole in the transmission tunnel which gave a very small apeture through which to get a circlip remover to release the cable from the gearbox. Also beware! since the propshaft cant be removed from the rear (not without taking the diff out) it stays in place and drops off the gear box as the box moves foreward, this makes a bang as the propshaft hits the transmission tunnel floor. ALSO .. at this point ... if you can .. try and get some cling film or plastic around the hole that the propshaft has just left. There is no drain plug on the gearbox. So as you fiddle around gradualy pulling the engine forward and up at angle the gearbox is busy draining itself out of the propshaft hole all over your nice clean garage floor. I guess a large pan like the one you do your Sunday roast in strategicaly placed during the removal might be okay to catch the oil, but makes the beef taste a bit odd later. Can't think of anything else at the moment, but there are probably other things I have forgotten. Good luck!.
  23. If this is original kit, there was a large diameter thick washer, same diameter as the spring that sits directly on top of the spring, the hole at the centre of this washer is large enough to sit just on the outer ring of the bearing. The bearing then goes on top of the large washer. A small but thick washer then goes on top of the bearing wich sits only on the centre ring of the bearing. The body buttress then sits on this washer and the bolt is tightened down. So the shock absorber inner rod is fixed to the buttress and the inner part of the bearing. The top of the spring, where the body weight bears, pushes up on the outer edge of the large washer and therefore the outer ring of the bearing, and therefore via the bearing balls (if it's a ball bearing) to the centre ring and then up via the small washer to the buttress. As standard, with SS Exmos, the pressure of the body weight on this small washer caused the SS to crack around the butress hole, so most people put a thick plate on the underside of the butress to spread the pressure.
  24. As I remember it, the new cable will have all the various components, two sheaths, plastic adjusters, some washers, and protectors etc. These are all threaded on to a single cable and then the nipples attached. The nipples will not run back through the sheaths, they are too big. So what you get is a symetric component, Nipple sheaths etc for nearside, a length of bare cable threaded through a new horseshoe in the middle and then sheaths etc. and nipple for the off side. Fitting on a Sierra is simple, just attach the horseshoe to the handbrake lever rod, thread each side through the subframe holes attach at each drum etc and adjust. The important thing is that the cable can slide back and fore through the horseshoe, this means that the tension on both sides is equalised, thats why Ford call it an "equaliser". When the cable is shortened by cutting off a nipple and pulling the extra cable through, cutting to length and attaching a new nipple, the "equalising" action is preserved because the cable can still slide at the horseshoe. I guess the cut could be made in the exposed part of the cable near the horseshoe and re-joined with a cable clamp, however the clamp needs to positioned so as not to either prevent the cable from slipping into the sheath when the handbrake is released or fouling the horseshoe when the cable moves to equalise the tension to each drum. Adding to this will be the confined space just above the propshaft UJ and the metal edge around the transmission tunnel which will make positioning of the cable clamp a bit of a challenge. (I don't know how hard because I didn't do it this way). Fixing a new nipple on the shortened cable end can be done away from the car at a workbench. So much less fiddling IMHO. Oh, P.S. I did this on an EXMO, maybe the S7 has a different construction of the rear panels ?. On the EXMO the propshaft emerges from the tunnel through a large circular apeture that has room for the horseshoe to sit just above the UJ with a few inches of the cable visible to left and right before they enter the sheaths that thread through the subframe. When everything is installed/adjusted etc. there is enough tension in the cable to stop the horseshoe from dropping on to the propshaft.
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