nelmo

Sure, let me know your email address...

I got a mate of mine to 3D-print me one but it doesn't have holes for stalks - however, I have the STL file for this , if it helps? You could get someone to print it for you and then cut out holes, maybe?

I dont think engine speed when starting has anything to do with the spark- it's all about the starter motor. As Bob says, earth's are the first thing to check but I had the same problem (on my Zetec) and it proved to be a dodgy starter motor. Replaced it and all good.

So I can now post but not send PMs...weird

Test

Yeah but he never had to scrabble on his hands and knees through bits of old tape/swarf/oil to find that 10 mil socket he'd just dropped through the engine bay

At least it's a nice easy fix...and glad to hear AutoAid worked well as I have a policy with them as well...

Note the text in red....this is an alternative option, NOT a requirement IMO. The actual requirement only says this: 4. The rear fog lamp(s) must only illuminate when dipped beam, main beam or front fog lamps are lit (see alternatives in Notes 3 & 4)

The IVA test doesn't care about full lock, it'll be fine on the edge. In fact, I think it looks quite good...

I got through IVA (in 2017) without that but I don't recall him actively testing it either. However, I'm pretty sure that when I read the IVA manual, it was not a requirement, from my understanding, so I was never thinking about it during the test.

Almost certainly the side-arch only. There was at least 1 person who failed IVA because the repeater was on the side panel (although not sure exactly where - might be a location where it is ok?). Look in the IVA manual, there is a complicated looking diagram showing where it has to be visible from.

This is a garden shed which has a lawnmower and a few other odds and ends - will that cause condensation? I won't be spending any time in it, I can only fit a basic 6'x4' shed. Advert says it is galvanised?

I need to update my rubbish wooden shed (it was cheap) and I don't know whether to go plastic or metal -any opinions? Metal ones seem much cheaper, which I was surprised by...

Well done, although pictures are needed...

Sorry, bit late but happy hols to all

As Ian says, if you try keep the same amount of rubber, the wheels just won't fit under the wheel arches and you'll affect the speedo. If you keep it low profile, you'll make minimal different to ground clearance and the ride will be even harder than normal (if that is possible ).

It's not exactly dead, just moved 30 miles west, or so

Yeah, 'cos none of us would dream of doing that

Usual suspects - SoftBits (if you live long enough to get to the front of their queue ) or a marine chandler-type company, like this, maybe?

I used small washers that were about the same size as the rivet head and small enough to fit inside the popper body - run those down the pop rivet length and they act like an extension to the gun head (sorry, tricky to explain). I just drilled very slowly and I did hit the glass a couple of times but it's tougher than you think (as long as it's modern, laminated stuff), so you should be fine. Details here: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2017/12/a-roof-over-my-head.html

@richyb66 is in Tamworth, runs his own garage business and has done lots of work on members cars (including mine) - highly recommended.

I left the ECU (Emerald) out for my first startup so I could check it worked before final fitting (see here: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2016/08/a-beating-heart.html) but after that, yes, fitted on the firewall and yes, it (well, the Emerald ECU - don't know about others) does have a basic map which should allow it to get started.

If you want it for track use, I believe it needs to be accessible easily, so under the bonnet is no good. Even for road use, you really want it in an emergency, so needs to be in the cabin somewhere. I've not got one, so can't help further..

Seems like it - at least for this year...