richyb66

Looks like a 2B sliding pillar: https://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm No 2B is any more difficult to get through IVA than another. Plenty of people have done in and some pass first time so although unlikely, it is possible. Commonest fail points are probably sharp edges, emissions and failure to interpret the regulations correctly. Buying a registered car is the easiest option but then you don't have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Part built kits can be more difficult to register if you're not careful with the paperwork, you need to prove that you've done most of the work, ideally with receipts and photographic evidence.

It's metric fine, M10 x 1mm pitch.

As Neil says, MOT isn't required, despite the fact that the guidance notes indicate that you do. If you've passed IVA and got your MAC certificate they you're good to go. Remainder of the process should be as shown here https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/kitconverted-vehicles

Erm, no. I don't like the colour.

Just need the jump leads and the Easy Start.

Engine is crossflow so not a Metro. Servo on LHS on a RHD car (looking at the rack) and shape of the rear pillar suggests it's a Fiesta and probably a MK1 (think MK2 onwards were cvh not ohv). Worth £2k if it's got a V5!

Slave cylinder location might be problematic because most of them push and the cable pulls. Whilst I don't doubt that it could be done, it sounds like a lot of work compared to just getting the cable to work properly

That's going to severely limit your choice of kits. The majority of people on here will have rwd configurations. As this will be your first kit, my best advise would be to use a proven donor like a Sierra or MX5. I don't recall anyone using a Volvo donor which means if you get problems, solutions and expertise will be in short supply.

Is there a rwd gearbox to fit that engine, I thought they were only fwd or 4wd?

Never had an issue with Emerald loosing maps on a battery disconnect. I wouldn't be convinced this is the issue.

There's a light on the ECU which comes on when it gets a signal from the crank sensor. If it doesn't see this signal, it won't start. Fuel pump will prime regardless of the crank signal.

The clothing supplier have removed the integration with our website and moved to a new system. This has a significant cost increase which we probably can't justify for the volumes of merchandise that we sell. Going forward, we will look at alternative suppliers who might be more suited to our needs.

I'm a few days late with this post due to being kept busy doing other things so apologies for that. Hopefully everyone is coping with whatever restrictions they're currently under and is looking forwards to things easing a bit over the Christmas period. Welcome to the following new members who joined in November. Feel free to get stuck in to posting stuff on the forum, especially if you've got questions or a winter project on the go. Peter S Boggis2010 Tenterden Ian B Ian B Daventry Lewis H LewisH Maidenhead

It's not floating my boat.

Cold air intake can come from inside or outside the car, just not from the underbonnet area. You might find it more effective if it draws air from inside so it's recirculating and re-heating mostly the same air.

Not your regular donor but someone might be up for a challenge. I have been contacted regarding a 2012 Maserati 4.2 GT. It had a complete body kit grafted onto it but it is far worse than that. All but the roof has been stripped of external panels and the frame has been rudely pulled into something like shape before the kit was fitted on to it. It's isn't viable to repair but might be a good breaker or donor car for a kit. The engine is a cracking base being a Ferrari built 4.2 litre naturally Aspirated unit that is bomb proof (3 known failures in 20 years of production for the UK). There are successful builds out there using alternative ECU's managing the variators and cam timing etc. This is linked to a Ferrari built Transaxle auto with paddle override. As far as the other mechanicals on the vehicle, it's hard to say how many would be of use. Ballpark price for the lot is £3k, if anyone is interested, pm me ASAP and I can put you touch with the seller. I will try and post pictures later.

Have a look at this but you need to identify which system you have. Everything you need to know should be there. https://nw.rhocar.org/Ford ignition systems.htm

Good spot but I'm not paying that much.

These are the manufacturer https://www.goldwassallhinges.co.uk/p3398

I could earth through the column and adapting another ring is an option but if I can get something that's a direct fit, I'd like to save myself some work.

I'm after the slip ring and sprung pins that goes on the back of the steering wheel and had two circular brass contact areas for the horn wiring.

Those long winter evenings must seem to fly by.

I have maths skills that I've never needed to use in the last 40 years.

Or y=7-x and y=x-1 so 7-x = x-1 subtract X from both sides 7-2x = -1 subtract 7 from both sides -2x = -8 divide both sides by -2 x=4 Substitute 4 for X in either equation y=7-4 y=3