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Everything posted by fry61
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A late reply to 15th August 2018 We built Florin using all the Sierra rear mounts, the rubber doughnuts were fitted as per Henry Ford ; so they still work as he intended. The diff rubber/ali mounting was inverted & fixed to the 2B chassis by welding in a 4 mm plate across the chassis tubes. The thinking was -- Sierra + 4 people + luggage is probably more than twice the weight of Florin + 2 + luggage, so why make the rear end solid ? The engine is still mounted on rubbers so all flex in drive train has to stop some-where in the prop-shaft. Florin continues to be a comfortable touring car, 9 years & 53 K later, no signs of failure in any part of the drive.
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Just hope he's not "Self Isolating"
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Set it far a count-down to when you're allowed out again.
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Good to see you've placed a couple of concrete blocks on the edge ---- to stop the wind rolling up the slabs.
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Take it steady --maybe get together when this present nonsense is over.
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Surely recovery from a broken wrist or two takes FAR longer in recuperation than seven weeks?
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Sorry, should have taken more notice; that your car was "garaged" in the great outdoors. With the amount of rain this year it's a wonder it hadn't dissolved.
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Is the cause of the stuck clutch due to damp binding the operating parts together ? Maybe a car cover & a small heat source under the bell housing will provide an answer. Envisage something like a 100/150 watt lamp in a biscuit tin., or a dehumidifier perhaps?
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Can't speak of the Pinto --- but our 2B runs an 1800 CVH lump ( which followed the pinto?) & we converted it to fuel injection by using all the bolt-on bits from an XR3i --- fitted a treat --- best inlet manifold I've seen. HP pump was a standard Bosch job, dozens of copies about.
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Thought a steering lock & ignition key switch required ( two methods of immobilising ) were the IVA requirements -- which is enough to satisfy the regs -- which you have already got if using the standard column switch/lock. We have a manual battery isolator with a 5 amp fuse bridge for side lights -- if the starter or ignition is switched ON the fuse blows.
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Brings back memories of an earlier GTM --- we rebuilt a Cox GTM in 1972 -- we loved it, the roof lifted off the 'screen at 50, the gear change was stir & hope ( mini engine in back) & fuel surge made the engine die on corners. It was far better looking than the Mini Marcos of the same vintage.
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Britool, M & W, Eclipse, Stubbs Files all Sheffield products by James Neill, sad to say most British "Names" in tools are now foreign owned &/or produced. A lot of British companies we dealt with back in the years 1979 to 2005 have switched production to over-seas to save on manufacturing costs, often at the cost of quality as well. Most companies, for both hand & power tools; manufacture for other brands; it the global way of reducing costs. Years ago, visited the Scintilla factory in Switzerland ( Bosch owned ) who were the manufacturer for most brands of jigsaw blade found any-where in Europe, the differing packages covered all walls of As with shopping on-line helping the demise of local high streets, we are all probably guilty of shopping around for the bargains; myself included. I'm glad not to be involved in retail to-day.
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If you get the chance --- at next purchase of spanners --- compare Draper Expert against Halfords own --- out the same stable ??? Maybe a worth-while price difference.
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Mechanics generally have Snap-On tools because the S/O van calls at their place of work weekly & the guys can buy "on drip". We sold Britool, Facom , Elora & Draper Expert --- didn't have many returns in over 25 years of sales --- most failures were probably due to mis-use. ( I only put a 6 foot scaffold pole on the end to get more leverage ) Most large tool boxes were back then all produced in Canada & the importer/wholesaler put their own label on. It was a big con on spanners --- an awful lot of brands had all their forgings made in Spain & so long as the the most value was added by the end brand they were allowed to sell it as "their " manufacture. Spanish Stilson Wrenches were exactly the same as most other brands --- the new name was stamped in after manufacture, we could buy them at less than half the price of "known" brands. Final note -- lost kit is LOST --- doesn't matter which brand there's no free replacement.
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Was fortunate to compete twice in the London to Brighton Vintage Run several years ago. Engine needed 1000 psi to climb hills & was fuelled by a fire of petrol/paraffin mix under your seat. Tiller steering & brakes " lubricated" by engine oil & condensate made for interesting travel on the route still populated by modern cars. Brake performance --- going over Westminster Bridge towards Parliament couldn't stop at the lights due to the downward slope, so through the red, turn left the wrong way up the one way street , bat-turn & correct travel to the lights by which time the band brake was warm/dry enough to bring our Mobile to a stop. Much safer on the water where speed of all craft is so much slower.
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Which is why I bought a steam boat --- total loss oiling & can see all the bits & pieces of the engine doing their thing. Not even with our kits can you sit at the side of the road/river & strip down the valve chest, find & fix the fault. Then just a few bob's worth of wood/coal be on your way again. Down side is I need a car & trailer to be able to take our 2 tonne launch to various locations.
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It's why Florin is brushed stainless steel --- just a wipe over with a damp cloth & she's ready to go. This is probably useless info if all your bare panels are ali.
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Just remember to switch the bottle off before explaining to Old Bill why you're speaking chip-munk & speeding; Mark.
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Thanks Rich, for others information ( I already have a 3 H.P compressor ) I believe the motor is 1.5 H.P as shown on rating plate. Not to say this unit is poor but it is in the lower order of compressors --- size of tank is of little note unless your job in hand requires just a short delivery time at high pressure. The motor will cycle less frequently with a larger tank but the compressor delivery ( not the swept volume ) is the most important detail -- which goes hand in hand with the motor power.
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Any idea of the motor H.P Rich? That will give a very good indication of possible CFM. 3 HP would be good -- 2 is O.K any smaller & not suitable for much above tyre inflation.
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Got away with an old fashioned 15 amp round pin plug & socket ( 20 odd years ago ) wedded to a 20 amp radial circuit. The machine was the best kit for cutting stainless or high tensile steel sheet. Always used a guide fence to get the cut profile required & did the cutting out of doors as the exhaust gas contains the vapourised metal -- makes a right mess of the workshop floor & stinks.
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Please ensure the 'screen will still be tall enough when you are sat in the driver's seat, peering over/under the top rail is also less than perfect.
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Our France, Swiss, Italy trip --- there is a video some where by Stephen Altwasser.