fry61

Would probably be classed as a second home ---- & that will get you a fine ---- could just move it to the garden & pretend you're on holiday.

A late reply to 15th August 2018 We built Florin using all the Sierra rear mounts, the rubber doughnuts were fitted as per Henry Ford ; so they still work as he intended. The diff rubber/ali mounting was inverted & fixed to the 2B chassis by welding in a 4 mm plate across the chassis tubes. The thinking was -- Sierra + 4 people + luggage is probably more than twice the weight of Florin + 2 + luggage, so why make the rear end solid ? The engine is still mounted on rubbers so all flex in drive train has to stop some-where in the prop-shaft. Florin continues to be a comfortable touring car, 9 years & 53 K later, no signs of failure in any part of the drive.

Just hope he's not "Self Isolating"

Set it far a count-down to when you're allowed out again.

Good to see you've placed a couple of concrete blocks on the edge ---- to stop the wind rolling up the slabs.

Some one in the passenger seat --- able & willing to PUSH.

Take it steady --maybe get together when this present nonsense is over.

Surely recovery from a broken wrist or two takes FAR longer in recuperation than seven weeks?

Sorry, should have taken more notice; that your car was "garaged" in the great outdoors. With the amount of rain this year it's a wonder it hadn't dissolved.

Is the cause of the stuck clutch due to damp binding the operating parts together ? Maybe a car cover & a small heat source under the bell housing will provide an answer. Envisage something like a 100/150 watt lamp in a biscuit tin., or a dehumidifier perhaps?

Can't speak of the Pinto --- but our 2B runs an 1800 CVH lump ( which followed the pinto?) & we converted it to fuel injection by using all the bolt-on bits from an XR3i --- fitted a treat --- best inlet manifold I've seen. HP pump was a standard Bosch job, dozens of copies about.

Thought a steering lock & ignition key switch required ( two methods of immobilising ) were the IVA requirements -- which is enough to satisfy the regs -- which you have already got if using the standard column switch/lock. We have a manual battery isolator with a 5 amp fuse bridge for side lights -- if the starter or ignition is switched ON the fuse blows.

Brings back memories of an earlier GTM --- we rebuilt a Cox GTM in 1972 -- we loved it, the roof lifted off the 'screen at 50, the gear change was stir & hope ( mini engine in back) & fuel surge made the engine die on corners. It was far better looking than the Mini Marcos of the same vintage.

Britool, M & W, Eclipse, Stubbs Files all Sheffield products by James Neill, sad to say most British "Names" in tools are now foreign owned &/or produced. A lot of British companies we dealt with back in the years 1979 to 2005 have switched production to over-seas to save on manufacturing costs, often at the cost of quality as well. Most companies, for both hand & power tools; manufacture for other brands; it the global way of reducing costs. Years ago, visited the Scintilla factory in Switzerland ( Bosch owned ) who were the manufacturer for most brands of jigsaw blade found any-where in Europe, the differing packages covered all walls of As with shopping on-line helping the demise of local high streets, we are all probably guilty of shopping around for the bargains; myself included. I'm glad not to be involved in retail to-day.

If you get the chance --- at next purchase of spanners --- compare Draper Expert against Halfords own --- out the same stable ??? Maybe a worth-while price difference.

Mechanics generally have Snap-On tools because the S/O van calls at their place of work weekly & the guys can buy "on drip". We sold Britool, Facom , Elora & Draper Expert --- didn't have many returns in over 25 years of sales --- most failures were probably due to mis-use. ( I only put a 6 foot scaffold pole on the end to get more leverage ) Most large tool boxes were back then all produced in Canada & the importer/wholesaler put their own label on. It was a big con on spanners --- an awful lot of brands had all their forgings made in Spain & so long as the the most value was added by the end brand they were allowed to sell it as "their " manufacture. Spanish Stilson Wrenches were exactly the same as most other brands --- the new name was stamped in after manufacture, we could buy them at less than half the price of "known" brands. Final note -- lost kit is LOST --- doesn't matter which brand there's no free replacement.

Was fortunate to compete twice in the London to Brighton Vintage Run several years ago. Engine needed 1000 psi to climb hills & was fuelled by a fire of petrol/paraffin mix under your seat. Tiller steering & brakes " lubricated" by engine oil & condensate made for interesting travel on the route still populated by modern cars. Brake performance --- going over Westminster Bridge towards Parliament couldn't stop at the lights due to the downward slope, so through the red, turn left the wrong way up the one way street , bat-turn & correct travel to the lights by which time the band brake was warm/dry enough to bring our Mobile to a stop. Much safer on the water where speed of all craft is so much slower.

Which is why I bought a steam boat --- total loss oiling & can see all the bits & pieces of the engine doing their thing. Not even with our kits can you sit at the side of the road/river & strip down the valve chest, find & fix the fault. Then just a few bob's worth of wood/coal be on your way again. Down side is I need a car & trailer to be able to take our 2 tonne launch to various locations.

It's why Florin is brushed stainless steel --- just a wipe over with a damp cloth & she's ready to go. This is probably useless info if all your bare panels are ali.

Just remember to switch the bottle off before explaining to Old Bill why you're speaking chip-munk & speeding; Mark.

Thanks Rich, for others information ( I already have a 3 H.P compressor ) I believe the motor is 1.5 H.P as shown on rating plate. Not to say this unit is poor but it is in the lower order of compressors --- size of tank is of little note unless your job in hand requires just a short delivery time at high pressure. The motor will cycle less frequently with a larger tank but the compressor delivery ( not the swept volume ) is the most important detail -- which goes hand in hand with the motor power.

Any idea of the motor H.P Rich? That will give a very good indication of possible CFM. 3 HP would be good -- 2 is O.K any smaller & not suitable for much above tyre inflation.

Got away with an old fashioned 15 amp round pin plug & socket ( 20 odd years ago ) wedded to a 20 amp radial circuit. The machine was the best kit for cutting stainless or high tensile steel sheet. Always used a guide fence to get the cut profile required & did the cutting out of doors as the exhaust gas contains the vapourised metal -- makes a right mess of the workshop floor & stinks.

Please ensure the 'screen will still be tall enough when you are sat in the driver's seat, peering over/under the top rail is also less than perfect.

Our France, Swiss, Italy trip --- there is a video some where by Stephen Altwasser.