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To add to the above the later batches of Exmos had a bigger quarter window which was plastic welded in. The hoods were optional extras and not always bought with the car.

The bottom one looks like the one I bought with the Exmo kit in 1996. (batch 2) The windows and drainage gutter are the same. It came with press studs to be fitted to suit the car. The turnbuckle fittings under the windows would have been fitted by the original owner as press studswere cheeper and as such what was supplied by RH.

https://www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/automotive/what-is-available Expensive but made to measure

Date?

Yes you will need to earth the engine, at present it is probably earthing through a mounting bolt which can cause problems. Also you often need to have an earth to the alternator, painted mounting brackets cause problems with earth continuity.

The hazard switch switches off the indicators before switching on the hazards. Sometimes you only get the indicators working on one side sometimes both sides fail. If your loom is based on the ford switches then the relay is the same for indicators and hazards. The Hazards work of a permanent live and the indicators work of a switched live, there probably are 2 fuses and a complicated switch.

No my cracks were visible from on top. Just under the brake servo, peddle box and on the opposite side very obvious looking down at the rear of the engine bay.

Often the hazard switch having corroded contacts. Spray with electrical contact cleaner and opperate several times. WD40 half works but I find that long term it attracts dirt.

I cut a V out of them as in my build as the sump clearance was only a couple of mm. Otherwise I have not changed them and have had no problems for 70,000 miles. The problems were the frount struts punching up through the butress, fixed with a 8mm thick plate under each butress. Also cracking between the top side panels and the footwell top plate which has been plated and welded.

The horn is probably the exception to hot switching, all ford models that I have seen from the late 70s used a relay for the horn. If the relay clicks but the horn does not sound then check that the horn body is properly earthed by its mounting bolts. Then check the horn fuse.

The early sierras had hot switching (the switches actually switch the load). Some time in 85 they went over to relay switching and the switches now connected to earth not 12V. Using the later switches to hot switch (needs a bit of inginuity) gives a short switch life. The original switches were designed for hot switching and will last a long time.

You could have gone into limp home mode. Static ignition (none) advance to avoid pinking gives bad MPG. Once full volts return (and electrical noise due to bad alternator earth go away) the ecu should recover on its own but will take a few miles. Now we do not have lead in the petrol colour of spark plugs is a very poor guide to fuel air ratio.

Correct, alternator light on battery not being charged. In the old days this light was labled ignition or IGN. On old instalations using a dynamo it was common to see this glow at tickover. Dynamoes needed a longer shaft to include the comutator and so needed a bigger pully to prevent shaft whip due to over speed. Adds a bit of history

Rev most alternators fast enough and they will self excite. This relies on residual magnetism in the rotating exciting iron pole pieces. Typicaly engine needs to get to 1500 - 2000 RPM with 2.5 to 1 pully diameter running the alternator at 3750 to 5000 RPM. Once started alternators will self excite down to very low RPM. New alternators might not self excite first time run and need the light for the first run only. Forgot to add bulb is a usefull indicator of snapped drive belt.

Oil and handbrake/brake fluid lights need to be wired to live. the switches connect to earth.

It depends on how accurate / repeatable you want the guages to be. If you are happy with a vague indication then no regulator required they will move about 5 to 10% depending on engine speed and other loads on the electrical circuit. Otherwise a voltage regulator will make them stable.

I had problems with overheating in traffic untill I mounted the electric fan directly to the radiator. I was using the ford engine mounted fan. I have the radiator mounted between the suspension butress and the engine and not in the nosecone. Biggest cooling problem has been the system eating thermostats untill I filled with old style glycol antifreeze.

Oh dear, more drag, hood not fitting, side screens flapping. Get the old ones shot blasted and powder coated.

I like your ingenuity and a good result. As a point of interest these are side screens and not doors. Why? Doors have to have burst proof locks and impact protection, screens to keep the rain out do not require this.

Thanks for the effort, I need a new sweatshirt as the old ones are getting a bit thin. Only problem is that the prices come up in dollars and it is now 11 years since I lived in Seattle USA. How long does the web trace us? BigBrother still lives.

I dont think that there are any NOS (New Old Stock) left since production stopped over 20 years ago. Hence the high price for second hand ones of dubious quality. I think that the easiest option is to use landrover engine mounts and a flat adaptor plate.

love the only do one thing wrong at a time idea.

Upgrade to basic electronic ignititon and fit a 3.0ohm coil, no need for a ballast then. https://www.aldonauto.co.uk/ignition/ignitor-i

So a points based system then.

I fit NGKAPR6FS which are I understand standard ford fitment to Sierra pintos. These are resistor plugs. The resistor acts to supress electrical noise messing up the radio.