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Autosol chrome polish and a lot of elbow grease on the stainless. There is a large area to polish for a small car. Fiberglass needs Tcut. But be carefull not to go through the gellcoat (or paint coat )

It is a narrow tub sierra based S7. The clue is the trumpets covering the end of the rear subframe just in front of the rear arches. It uses the sierra front subframe which makes it Mark 1 Sierra S7. So the kit dates form 1994 to 1996. Have fun and drive like you stole it!!

I have not seen connectors like those in a sierra. It is probable that the loom has been split with aftermarket connectors. Do you know the age of the donner? There were several changes during the production run.

Pitched Circle Diameter i.e. the diameter of the circle that goes through the center of the bolt holes.

The upright looks to be Ford Cortina Mk5. The rest I have not a clue.

Definitley none standard. I recently had this on one of my Saabs which turned out to be alternator bearings, a right pain, as the exhaust has to be removed to change the alternator. Three belts repaced before the real cuprit came to light, alternator was good when cold but siezed when hot. This was also a toothed belt for alternator, water pump, aircon compressor etc. Good luck finding root cause.

Problem is that the standard V belt lets the alternator hit the stearing shaft. Normal work round is to fit a V belt one size down, it can be hard to fit, I found that taking the pulley off the water pump allows the belt be fitted before refitting the pulley. I never came across a toothed belt for the alternator on a pinto though it is possible if a supercharger is fitted I supose. I do not have the number to hand will look in the morning.

Looks an interesting project. Have you got all the bits to finish? I look forward to some progress reports.

Also the monocoque cars had the tunnel offset so as to give more room for the pedels. I have not checked a 2B for this. So if looking for new seats check measurements on both sides.

Looking at the s**t that came out of the cooling system I wonder if some time in the past a previous owner has lost coolant and filled up by scooping water from a puddle. Looking at the timing pic I normally expect the backing plate timing mark to be central to the pulley so i suspect that timing is out. The standard 2l pinto is non contact ( the valves cannot touch the piston ) but at this age you do not know what rebuild mods have been incorporated in the engine, so there should be no damage just a power loss that should be recoverable by reseting the timing.

I have one and it slows down evaporation but does not stop it the carb is still sitting on top of a hot engine. But I have no vents in the bonnet so with the engine stopped there is some build up of heat.

A lot of people cut the bonnet and fit boat cooling vents. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173821599391?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=173821599391&targetid=1814673647502&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006901&poi=&campaignid=19089547614&mkgroupid=142438599285&rlsatarget=pla-1814673647502&abcId=9303859&merchantid=101733851&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9fqnBhDSARIsAHlcQYQfS9q9f02ufyXzOe275F5KL-rfarETWsYlxe2OcUMAHZPD_oDSoBYaAnarEALw_wcB. Personaly i have no vents in a mono car ( restricted under engine ventilation ) and no overheating issues. You might have other problems. Most overheating problems I have seen have been due to poor coupling between fan and rad OR plain cheep under powered fan.

where has everybody gone?

White plastic nut at top of your pic should move the threaded portion of the cable outer to adjust the handbrake. If it does not then there is your problem. The cable is a shortened sierra cable, cut the excess inner off one end and crimp or weld a new ferral on the end. This could have come off you can check by trying to pull the cable out of the backing plate on both sides.

Need for a pressure regulator depends on the pump pressure. Mine runs about 4psi and the carb is ok with that. Mechanical pump is about 3psi. Of course if you try to run an electric EFI pump into a carb life could get interesting.

Be aware that there are many versions of the haynes sierra manual. They all have the same ISBN. I have one for model years 82 & 83. It goes into some detail about stripping and rebuilding pinto engines and stripping and rebuilding 4 & 5 speed gearboxes. I also have one covering 82 to 93 which tells you not to strip the engine or gearbox but to take them to a specialist. Haynes manuals have gone a long way down hill in the last 40 years.

I am not saying that it has to be vertical, just saying that there is a case for making it vertical so as be seen a bit sooner. There is IVA and there is see and be seen.

I think that the reasoning goes like this. There is a mirror behind each bulb that focuses the light to some extent. This focused light should be aimed straight back to increase the distance that the light is obvious. So my take is that the original light cluster needs to be vertical. Production car rear light clusters internally make sure that this is achieved even though they appear to be sloped.

I have a passout Weather permitting I could be in the exmo.

This is just down the road from me and I have just had notification. https://www.greatbritishmotorshows.com/event/cheshire-classic-and-performance-motor-show-at-arley-hall-and-gardens/ Down side is that they require £7 entrance fee. Anyone interested?

The pump I used does not appear to be available anymore but the following is similar. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394655992104?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338723872&toolid=20006&customid=PLMZx4wYAAAAtv6E6iOCRCDnyZ83AAAAAA

Sorry I should not have put in the second comment and apologise for it. I also have the same problem and a new mechanical pump made no difference to the starting, it was still grind grind to fill the carb so I do not think that a non return valve will help. I have had problems in the past with the reliability of aftermarket electric pumps so I have both. I use the electric to prime the system and the mechanical pump when running. The electric pump has a simple push button mounted out of the way, I push it untill the noise from the pump changes and then start.

The mechanical petrol pump already has 2 one way valves in it. What makes you think that a third will help?

The S3 never had a build manual. It came with a couple of VHS tapes that showed most of the build. They are a bit amateur but show the tricky bits. I believe that they are available on Utube.

Sorry but that is a confusing diagram. Thermostat in radiator return line, I have never seen that and wonder how it can work. The thermostat is normally closed and opens as it warms. It is always near engine in the line taking coolant from the engine to the radiator so as to sense when the engine reaches operating temp.